Front Control Arm Bushings.. Quick question
- Thread starter hugo2go
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ToyTec Lifts
New member
This kit is for the Tacoma but it is the same thing on a 3rd gen runner.
^^Click me^^
We actually just ran out of this kit but we will have more next week!
-Dylan
^^Click me^^
We actually just ran out of this kit but we will have more next week!
-Dylan
Nelsonmd
New member
Hey Dylan, what's the word on that kit making the ride harsher, more vibration, noisier, etc... I seem to remember some people saying you feel more vibration with the poly bushings instead of the rubber ones.
I looked into these a while back but never got a real straight answer on the fitment, so I am really curious about this kit.
I looked into these a while back but never got a real straight answer on the fitment, so I am really curious about this kit.
PNWRunner
New member
I replaced my LCA bushings with the Energy Suspension kit and it rides the same as OEM, and doesnt make any noise at all.
BUT. Its a huuuuge pain in the grass to install these things. Youll have to press out the old OEM bushing, which will likely come out with the metal sleeve that you must re-press in. Once youve gotten all the bushings out you must then burn the bushing off the metal cam in the center, its needs to be re-used in the Energy kit. It took about 3 hours of burning and grinding before I finally had the cam ready to go with the new bushings. It took me and two specialty mechanic buddys 6-7 hours in a shop with a press and a variety of torches.
I would have gone OEM if I did this again, but I likely wont have to.
BUT. Its a huuuuge pain in the grass to install these things. Youll have to press out the old OEM bushing, which will likely come out with the metal sleeve that you must re-press in. Once youve gotten all the bushings out you must then burn the bushing off the metal cam in the center, its needs to be re-used in the Energy kit. It took about 3 hours of burning and grinding before I finally had the cam ready to go with the new bushings. It took me and two specialty mechanic buddys 6-7 hours in a shop with a press and a variety of torches.
I would have gone OEM if I did this again, but I likely wont have to.
Gerdo
New member
Front control arm bushing replacement, rubber to poly.
This does take some work.
You must unbolt and slide the steering rack back so you can slide out the rear adjuster bolts.
If you are doing the uppers, You will need to unbolt the Airbag sensors (disconnect the battery first). There is a wire bundle on the drivers side that must be unbolted too. On the passenger side, there is an AC line that can be popped out of the clips and moved aside. They are in the way of sliding the bolts forward.
You will need to re-use some parts so read the directions COMPLETELY!
You will reuse the cam adjusters, outer shells of all of the rubber bushings and the inner sleeves and end caps of the lowers.
Once you get the arms out, now comes the fun.
You need to pry off the outer cap/toothed washer (small ones) before proceeding.
You will heat up the outer tube that has the stock bushings in. They need to get fairly hot to melt the rubber bond. When they start sizzling, try to pull the rubber out by grabbing the inner sleeve with pliers (when you have it hot enough, it will pull right out). Then you can heat the lower sleeves and slide the rubber off them. If done right, there shouldn't be too much rubber left on the pieces. If there is, you can wire wheel, scrape or sand it off.
The steel sleeves in the uppers MUST be PRESSED in so the ends don't have gaps.
Now the easy part. Grease the poly and push them in, then the inner sleeves. We had to do a little filing on the cap/toothed washer. Now tap them back on.
Re-assemble.
***Heating requires a propane torch. Heat the steel and the rubber will pull out. Don't try to burn the rubber out, it just makes a mess and more work.***
-------------------
My first real drive with them today and I can say that I noticed zero new vibrations or extra road feel. They greatly improver the road feel and reduced the swim (my bushings were not too bad but did have some play).
I'm happy so far.
This does take some work.
You must unbolt and slide the steering rack back so you can slide out the rear adjuster bolts.
If you are doing the uppers, You will need to unbolt the Airbag sensors (disconnect the battery first). There is a wire bundle on the drivers side that must be unbolted too. On the passenger side, there is an AC line that can be popped out of the clips and moved aside. They are in the way of sliding the bolts forward.
You will need to re-use some parts so read the directions COMPLETELY!
You will reuse the cam adjusters, outer shells of all of the rubber bushings and the inner sleeves and end caps of the lowers.
Once you get the arms out, now comes the fun.
You need to pry off the outer cap/toothed washer (small ones) before proceeding.
You will heat up the outer tube that has the stock bushings in. They need to get fairly hot to melt the rubber bond. When they start sizzling, try to pull the rubber out by grabbing the inner sleeve with pliers (when you have it hot enough, it will pull right out). Then you can heat the lower sleeves and slide the rubber off them. If done right, there shouldn't be too much rubber left on the pieces. If there is, you can wire wheel, scrape or sand it off.
The steel sleeves in the uppers MUST be PRESSED in so the ends don't have gaps.
Now the easy part. Grease the poly and push them in, then the inner sleeves. We had to do a little filing on the cap/toothed washer. Now tap them back on.
Re-assemble.
***Heating requires a propane torch. Heat the steel and the rubber will pull out. Don't try to burn the rubber out, it just makes a mess and more work.***
-------------------
My first real drive with them today and I can say that I noticed zero new vibrations or extra road feel. They greatly improver the road feel and reduced the swim (my bushings were not too bad but did have some play).
I'm happy so far.
Nelsonmd
New member
Can someone clarify one point on this: Do you need to remove the outer metal sleeve from the upper control arm, or can you leave that sleeve in the arm. It looks like a PITA to get out (mine is quite clearly rusted in there), and it seems everyone says press it out, put the poly bushing in it, and then press it right back in. I don't see a good way to jig the arm to press out that sleeve.
I am thinking I am going to replace the bushings as well when I do my front end overhaul because I was looking at the bushings tonight and I can see that they are starting to dry crack.
I am thinking I am going to replace the bushings as well when I do my front end overhaul because I was looking at the bushings tonight and I can see that they are starting to dry crack.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Good thread and good info. This is something I plan on doing eventually as well
