Front doors take lots of force to close

Friday88

New member
So the driver and passenger doors on my 97 take a lot of force to latch shut. I mean I know its a truck and the doors need to be slammed harder, but these really need to be SLAMMED. It's bad enough that every time my wife and I enter it, at least one of us needs to re-close a door.

I just bought this vehicle so I don't know whats normal for them, but I would like to correct this issue. Are there any specific door latch parts that I should lubricate? anything that should be replaced?

thanks.
 
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Have you checked the strikers for correct adjustment and tightness? (the steel loop that the door latch catches on)
 
Have you checked the strikers for correct adjustment and tightness? (the steel loop that the door latch catches on)

I was not aware that those steel loops were adjustable. I will take a look at them when I leave work today, thanks.
 
Definitely check alignment like I_bRad noted. I used teflon lube to spray the arms and car door latches. Helped tremendously. I sprayed a bit at a time and worked it in. They're almost too effortless now. When I first did it and opened the door after driving, I nearly smashed my door into the next car in the lot because it swung out so wildly.
 
Definitely check alignment like I_bRad noted. I used teflon lube to spray the arms and car door latches. Helped tremendously. I sprayed a bit at a time and worked it in. They're almost too effortless now. When I first did it and opened the door after driving, I nearly smashed my door into the next car in the lot because it swung out so wildly.

That is exactly the type of performance I want from my door latches lol
 
Some grease/oil on the hinges might help as well. Or is it the door move easy but just don't shut? You can also oil the locking mechanism that's inside the door.
 
Some grease/oil on the hinges might help as well. Or is it the door move easy but just don't shut? You can also oil the locking mechanism that's inside the door.
For lock mechanisms, etc. you'll want to use a graphite based lube to keep from attracting dirt and grime.

-Charlie
 
Usually the last door to close needs more power due to good sealed interior.

Did you check the hinges on the doors? Are they worn out? Does the door go up and down when you try to lift it while the door is open?

If all is good, you may need to close the door and reach the hinge bolts through the front fender inner splash guards. Loosen the bolts (all 4 by one full turn) and re-tighten the bolts.
 
Usually the last door to close needs more power due to good sealed interior.

Did you check the hinges on the doors? Are they worn out? Does the door go up and down when you try to lift it while the door is open?

If all is good, you may need to close the door and reach the hinge bolts through the front fender inner splash guards. Loosen the bolts (all 4 by one full turn) and re-tighten the bolts.


The problem is not in the hinges, it's in the latching mechanism. The doors swing easily and freely, but when they shut it takes a lot of force to latch them.

Last night I looked at the strikers, as the original person suggested they are adjustable. They do not appear to be adjustable, and the latch in the door appears to line up with them fine. I spent some time trying to move the latch in the door with my fingers and they are pretty stiff, so I sprayed some wd40 in there and worked it around to see if it made a difference. It feels like it takes slightly less force now, but that may just be in my head. I'm going to try graphite or lithium grease and if it doesn't improve I will probably disassemble the door panel to get better access to the mechanism and clean it. It feels like the latches don't want to rotate downward, which when closed, would be the latched position.
 
The problem is not in the hinges, it's in the latching mechanism. The doors swing easily and freely, but when they shut it takes a lot of force to latch them.

Last night I looked at the strikers, as the original person suggested they are adjustable. They do not appear to be adjustable, and the latch in the door appears to line up with them fine. I spent some time trying to move the latch in the door with my fingers and they are pretty stiff, so I sprayed some wd40 in there and worked it around to see if it made a difference. It feels like it takes slightly less force now, but that may just be in my head. I'm going to try graphite or lithium grease and if it doesn't improve I will probably disassemble the door panel to get better access to the mechanism and clean it. It feels like the latches don't want to rotate downward, which when closed, would be the latched position.

RTFM. Yes, they are adjustable. See Par. 3:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/bo/frodoo/adju.pdf
 
I did/do have that issue. I noticed the plastic coating in my door latch mechanism deteriorated. I wrapped the latch on the body with gorilla tape (or vinyl tape) and it worked better but not great.

I just live with it. It's only my passenger door.

I might try the inductions the durk listed. Man I'm glad he swapped a frame and stuck around instead of leaving with another car.
 
well moving that striker seemed unsuccessful. I didn't bother trying a hammer, I just loosened them and tried moving it around by hand to see how much it could go. The screws are counter sunk, so when they are tightened they recenter the striker in the same position it was in. Unless I overlooked something, it doesn't appear adjustable. Maybe the hammer method actually bends the metal in the holes?

I sprayed white lithium grease in the door latches and worked it in by moving the latch back and forth while holding the door lever in the open position. I let go of the lever and attempted to push the latch into the closed position by hand, and it was very difficult. I think the problem is in the door latch itself. Whatever part causes the resistance in the latch seems to have stopped working very well.

the next step is to remove the door panel and get access to the inside of the latch to look at it. I'm not sure when I'll do this but for the sake of solving this problem and having a record of it, I'll post any results back in here if I do it. I want to fix this because if we keep slamming the doors like this, I feel like its going to knock the door panels off eventually.
 
The door latch striker adjustment happens behind the striker. Loosen the screws very slightly, tap it, and the threaded inserts behind the striker move...

The latch should be fairly hard to work by hand (well, with a screwdriver or something). Compare to the hood main latch - it is a similar mechanism. If it is mis-aligned, the extra friction will make it hard to close.

That said, you could still have a problem with the latch mechanism... so that is worth pursuing too.

-Charlie
 
The door latch striker adjustment happens behind the striker. Loosen the screws very slightly, tap it, and the threaded inserts behind the striker move...

The latch should be fairly hard to work by hand (well, with a screwdriver or something). Compare to the hood main latch - it is a similar mechanism. If it is mis-aligned, the extra friction will make it hard to close.

That said, you could still have a problem with the latch mechanism... so that is worth pursuing too.

-Charlie

When I had the striker off, the threaded holes looked misaligned from the through holes in front of them. I'll try tapping it with a hammer. Thanks.
 
there is no need to move the striker. what causes the problem is wear and age on the lock mechanism and or the hinges being worn. my truck was the same. i replaced the lock mechanisms along with new power lock actuators and they are all good.
 
greasing all those moving parts helps as well. dirt, sand, etc gets in there and causes issues such as this, along with age, wear and tear.
 

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