Front end clunking sound/bind feel while turning and going over bumps
- Thread starter JohnOfTheJungle
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JohnOfTheJungle
Member
I did reach my hand up to check out the upper shock nut - it didn't feel loose, but I should have stuck a wrench on it to get it a few turns. I'll see if I can do that tonight.
On the driveshaft hitting the gas tank skid I'll check for signs of that happening.
This sound has developed fairly recently though (the last 4-5 months) and I had the lift put on last September. The sound also doesn't always happen when there's massive articulation, and sometimes it'll pop during the flexing, then it'll pop again while driving straight shortly after, almost like the tension is being released.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Check your front springs binding against the UCAs when turning under compression
Also, change your thread title if this is not solved lol I expected a happy ending :bigok:
Also, change your thread title if this is not solved lol I expected a happy ending :bigok:
diverscale
Member
Cabin mount bushings, especially the 2 just beside the driver and passenger feet.
Remove the bottom door/rocker trims, get the carpet out of the way, undo the 14MM (I think) bolt from under the truck and take the bushing bolt out on both sides, and also take out the part of the bushing that you can remove from under the truck (half of the bushing).
Look at bolt rust and especially inside the bushing, there is a sleeve that gets so rusted and destroyed that the bolt is loose and clunks.
Remove the bottom door/rocker trims, get the carpet out of the way, undo the 14MM (I think) bolt from under the truck and take the bushing bolt out on both sides, and also take out the part of the bushing that you can remove from under the truck (half of the bushing).
Look at bolt rust and especially inside the bushing, there is a sleeve that gets so rusted and destroyed that the bolt is loose and clunks.
DK327
Member
I have that same clunk and also some rattling when I go over bumps driving around town, the rattling only happens when the weather is warm, during winter months it disappears but the clunk is always there.
I noticed both noises soon after replacing a whole bunch of steering and suspension parts at the same time so it's been a nightmare to try and see what's causing it. I even bought a go-pro like camera and put it in different spots on the belly and recorded and played back to see if I can identify where it's coming from and still nothing.
Don't give up man, our sanity depends on you finding out where this damn noise is coming from once and for all! I'm having my truck taken to a shop that only works on Toyotas in a week for timing belt water pump and valve cover gasket job and will mention it to them so they can check every ****ing thing until they find what's clunking and rattling under there.
It's been driving me crazy and I'm at my wit's end but seeing others going thru it makes is a bit better... Misery loves company. :ybrick:
I noticed both noises soon after replacing a whole bunch of steering and suspension parts at the same time so it's been a nightmare to try and see what's causing it. I even bought a go-pro like camera and put it in different spots on the belly and recorded and played back to see if I can identify where it's coming from and still nothing.
Don't give up man, our sanity depends on you finding out where this damn noise is coming from once and for all! I'm having my truck taken to a shop that only works on Toyotas in a week for timing belt water pump and valve cover gasket job and will mention it to them so they can check every ****ing thing until they find what's clunking and rattling under there.
It's been driving me crazy and I'm at my wit's end but seeing others going thru it makes is a bit better... Misery loves company. :ybrick:
JohnOfTheJungle
Member
Haha, thanks for the support. You’re right about one thing - misery loves company, it makes me feel better to know I’m not the only one trying to chase down something like this.
This is the type of thing that I won’t stop until I figure out what it is, and I will post it here. I’m pretty sure I’ve read every thread on here about weird suspension sounds and 90% of them end with “going to the mechanic today will let you know what I find”, then nothing is ever posted again.
I appreciate everyone’s suggestions and chiming in. The body mount is a good idea to check. I will try to do that sometime in the next few days.
I did check all around the front coil for control arm rubbing, I can’t find any evidence like missing paint.
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You are not alone with that clunk/knock sound, mine does exactly the same.
I think it is the body mounts too.
Mine are basically inexistent. I have rebuilt/checked most of the suspension/steering/arms and it's not where it's from.
Try to press your left feet on the "no clutch pad" (if auto). On mine, I can clearly feel it really close when it knocks (that's where the body bolt is).
I think it is the body mounts too.
Mine are basically inexistent. I have rebuilt/checked most of the suspension/steering/arms and it's not where it's from.
Try to press your left feet on the "no clutch pad" (if auto). On mine, I can clearly feel it really close when it knocks (that's where the body bolt is).
JohnOfTheJungle
Member
Back in Jersey with the luxury of a garage, oh the glory.
Put in new inner tie rod ends, mine were shot, they had a ton of play and dropped immediately rather than holding themselves up. That was a really easy job
Also replaced my rear sway bar links, they were pretty beat up. Here is a pic of the one that was in better condition - it’s got 3 washers on it, is that normal? When I replaced them I only used 2 washers.
Anyway, the truck drives better, but the noise is still there!
Tomorrow I will take another look at the front LCA cam bolts although I swear I’ve checked them twice and have had it aligned at least once since this noise started.
It also seems like I might have been able to recreate the sound today when I was jacking up the rear axle on one side to do the sway bar links. I might play with that some more to see if I can pin it down.
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Put in new inner tie rod ends, mine were shot, they had a ton of play and dropped immediately rather than holding themselves up. That was a really easy job
Also replaced my rear sway bar links, they were pretty beat up. Here is a pic of the one that was in better condition - it’s got 3 washers on it, is that normal? When I replaced them I only used 2 washers.
Anyway, the truck drives better, but the noise is still there!
Tomorrow I will take another look at the front LCA cam bolts although I swear I’ve checked them twice and have had it aligned at least once since this noise started.
It also seems like I might have been able to recreate the sound today when I was jacking up the rear axle on one side to do the sway bar links. I might play with that some more to see if I can pin it down.
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Gary Blake
New member
Have you checked your propeller shaft grease situation?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214270-slip-yoke-binding-fix.html
Lots of information about slip yoke binding and causing strange hard to pin down noises, mtbtim has a good video about greasing.
Gary
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214270-slip-yoke-binding-fix.html
Lots of information about slip yoke binding and causing strange hard to pin down noises, mtbtim has a good video about greasing.
Gary
Trail Taxi
New member
When I have a noise that can't be solved I just keep turning up the radio until it overpowers the offending sound 
TT
TT
phattyduck
Elite Member
The picture you posted here is correct. Two washers on the bottom, one on the top. The top washer on the lower side centers the link rod and keeps it from rubbing on the frame mount.Also replaced my rear sway bar links, they were pretty beat up. Here is a pic of the one that was in better condition - it’s got 3 washers on it, is that normal? When I replaced them I only used 2 washers.
-Charlie
JohnOfTheJungle
Member
What an eventful day!
Figured out the cause of the sound...turns out it was...wait for it...a loose rear upper control arm nut! So it all comes full circle and my very first hunch was correct. The nut connecting the driver’s side to the axle was hand tight.
Flash back to my first post in the thread I mistakenly said I had checked and tightened the rear UCA. I misspoke, it was actually the LCA. I somehow missed this one bolt, I think it was hard for me to get to until I jacked it up today and removed my spare so I could sit up.
I can’t believe I’ve been chasing this down for months... the good news is that in the process I’ve put on a lot of new parts and checked and rechecked tons of fasteners.
Also in OTHER good news, I hooked up my Baja squadron sports in my bumper
And in the BEST news - today I also did the gray wire mod with the intent to troubleshoot my e-locker. Once I put the back wheels in the air, pressed the e-locker button, and pushed the wheels by hand it engaged fine for the first time ever in the 1.5 yrs since I’ve owned it.
Took it around the block testing the e-locker and it seemed to work great. So I’m stoked on that too!
We’ll consider this thread solved...unless the dreaded clunk comes back.
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Figured out the cause of the sound...turns out it was...wait for it...a loose rear upper control arm nut! So it all comes full circle and my very first hunch was correct. The nut connecting the driver’s side to the axle was hand tight.
Flash back to my first post in the thread I mistakenly said I had checked and tightened the rear UCA. I misspoke, it was actually the LCA. I somehow missed this one bolt, I think it was hard for me to get to until I jacked it up today and removed my spare so I could sit up.
I can’t believe I’ve been chasing this down for months... the good news is that in the process I’ve put on a lot of new parts and checked and rechecked tons of fasteners.
Also in OTHER good news, I hooked up my Baja squadron sports in my bumper
And in the BEST news - today I also did the gray wire mod with the intent to troubleshoot my e-locker. Once I put the back wheels in the air, pressed the e-locker button, and pushed the wheels by hand it engaged fine for the first time ever in the 1.5 yrs since I’ve owned it.
Took it around the block testing the e-locker and it seemed to work great. So I’m stoked on that too!
We’ll consider this thread solved...unless the dreaded clunk comes back.
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Last edited:
DK327
Member
Congratz! I'll re-check all mine over the weekend and go from there! Thanks for not giving up and giving periodic updates after each mod and troubleshooting step. Much appreciated!
JohnOfTheJungle
Member
Touché
Meet me up at Vermont Overland Rally end of Sept - beers on me all night!
Thanks for all the help and support everyone, hopefully this thread helps someone in the future.
The front end of my 96 started making some creaky noises about a month ago, Ive only had it for a couple months and the previous owner had recently installed 99 springs and bilsteins. Also looked to have new sway bar end links and new steering rack. The noise gradually worsened. I replaced the lower ball joints and tie rod end links which were in bad shape. This did nothing to improve the creaking and groaning. Finally a couple days ago I started spraying everything down with grease. Barely any improvement. Finally I realized that something must be loose. I went under it this morning and sway bar link was not tight at all both sides. Also the lower shock bolt was way loose both sides. Tightened it all up and now much less noise. Still a little creaky when I brake from slow. The top shock bolt is also very loose but has quite a few threads showing. I'm guessing this is normal. Any idea of how to tighten it while its attached? the small shaft out the top is pretty fixed to the big nut and they turn together. can't get enough leverage to turn the nut while holding the shaft still.
Think it could be causing some noise?
Think it could be causing some noise?
JohnOfTheJungle
Member
The top shock bolt, front or rear? Either way, no it would not be normal for that to be loose. Don’t know if it’s causing the noise, but if it’s in the front then I believe tightening it would require you to pull the shock/spring assembly, use a spring compressor to compress the spring a bit, then tighten the nut.
That top nut is what holds the shock/spring assembly together, so I suppose if it’s not tight enough it could allow for movement.
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That top nut is what holds the shock/spring assembly together, so I suppose if it’s not tight enough it could allow for movement.
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