Front end clunking sound/bind feel while turning and going over bumps

[JShipps]

Well, I've read a bunch of posts on this noise, but yours was the only one with a video that sounded like mine. I have a 4th Gen, not a third, but that popping sound is exactly what I get at about that same speed and situation (a bit of twisting/flexing the rig). I guess I'll check all the nuts & bolts around my suspension to see if that's the deal. Thanks for posting all this! Also, 4th Gens don't have rear UCAs, but I'll check all the connections anyway.

 

[phattyduck]

Also, 4th Gens don't have rear UCAs, but I'll check all the connections anyway.

4th gens have generally the same rear suspension design. There are 2 upper arms back there...

-Charlie

 

[JShipps]

What an eventful day!

Figured out the cause of the sound...turns out it was...wait for it...a loose rear upper control arm nut! So it all comes full circle and my very first hunch was correct. The nut connecting the driver’s side to the axle was hand tight.

I'm happy for you, but bummed for me. I have the exact same pop/crack sound that was in your video. I checked my rear UCA and all was torqued to spec. I guess I'm just starting off on the same journey, but with what'll be a different solution I guess.

 

[Devbot]

Can't wait to try this, this weekend. Been trying to get to the bottom of it in my truck for ages now.

 

[BradyBunches]

I was having a jarring metal on metal clanging clunking when turning + going over bumps (basically suspension articulation) on the road. I could have sworn it was something in the front end and was worried my LBJ or tie road was going to break off.

Turns out it was a loose rear upper control arm mounting bolt to the frame! Turned it 1-2 turns to get it to 100 lb/ft, no more clunk!

I am constantly doing things to the runner. I had recently replaced a boot on the tie rod, put on 2nd gen sway bar links, and last year redid all my bushings in the front end.

3-4 months ago I had also loosened up and re-tightened the rear upper and lower control arms to relieve any potential binding.
I guess I didn’t tighten one of the bolts up all the way.

Just a little lesson for me that it’s really hard to tell where sounds and vibes are actually coming from and also super happy my front wheels aren’t going to fall off and I don’t need imminently need a new rack.






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I have the same problem.... Anyone else have a different solution that fixed it?

 

[dapanvid]

After wracking my mind for a while and tightening everything I could find in the front end, I took a hint from this thread and started looking at the rear.

I found my driver side UCA bolt to the frame (right near the gas tank) was only hand tight. Haven't driven it yet, but I have high hopes that's hopefully what it is...

Back story : just replaced passenger upper and lower ball joints as I'd been hearing a pop from what sounded like from that area and upper was worn, so figured I'd replace both. After getting them in it sounded like something was about to break on that side and have been trying to track down the issue ever since (2 months). Sway bar bushings up front are all new, LCA and UCA bushings are new. If this doesn't fix my issue, I'm going to try and replace the lower strut bushing on my front shocks to see if it's just excessive play.

I'll report back if tightening the rear UCA bolt helped fix my problem.

 

[dapanvid]

So, tightening that rear UCA didn’t fix my problem. If anything the sound got worse the next day driving. Kept digging around after work and playing with parts and found my other rear UCA was actually broken right at the weld on the end “cup” part that holds the bushing.

Bought another and reinstalled it this evening and Im assuming it’s going to fix my issue. I know not super helpful for others on this posting, but that’s my fix for my problem. Of course I’ll update if it doesn’t fix, but just wanted to resolve my issue on this posting.