Front end rebuild - HELP!

[fo' runnin']

Alright guys... I just put brand new KM2s on my 1993 V6 4x4 4runner with 216,000 miles and I am wanting to get it aligned so I don't eat them up in a hurry... but before I get it aligned I would love to rebuild the front end so I KNOW that everything is tight and right... what are the essential parts I should replace before getting an alignment?

Upper Ball Joints??
Lower Ball Joints??
Tie rod ends??
Wheels bearings??
Wheel bearing races??
Pitman Arm??

Are all of those necessary? Any parts that I'm missing?

 

[KidVermicious]

If you want a completely fresh front end, all of that is necessary, and you forgot about the idler arm. If you want to get really in depth, you can replace the a-arm and sway bar bushings too.

None of it is especially hard to replace, assuming it isn't all rusted into a solid mass. PB Blaster every day for a couple days before you start will make it easier, and have a propane or map torch and a really long cheater bar handy.

If you're going to do inner and outer tie rod ends, save yourself some hassle and buy a new adjuster sleeve for each side too.

Don't forget to save anything that's still usable as trail spares.

 

[fo' runnin']

If you want a completely fresh front end, all of that is necessary, and you forgot about the idler arm. If you want to get really in depth, you can replace the a-arm and sway bar bushings too.

None of it is especially hard to replace, assuming it isn't all rusted into a solid mass. PB Blaster every day for a couple days before you start will make it easier, and have a propane or map torch and a really long cheater bar handy.

If you're going to do inner and outer tie rod ends, save yourself some hassle and buy a new adjuster sleeve for each side too.

Don't forget to save anything that's still usable as trail spares.

Idler arm! Knew I was forgetting something... and new adjuster sleeves are a must too!

I'm glad you reminded me to save my parts for spares, because I probably would have just tossed them. Smart man! Thank you for the help!

 

[Dinardy]

Idler arm! Knew I was forgetting something... and new adjuster sleeves are a must too!



I'm glad you reminded me to save my parts for spares, because I probably would have just tossed them. Smart man! Thank you for the help!

I just did my front end. I threw in 4crawler brass bushings on the new idler arm, and installed BJ spacers so I could ride like a caddy.

The biggest hurdle was the torsion bar bolts. I ended up snapping them in half after trying most every method in the book. Be sure to grab a new pair of bolts and nuts for this so you're not laid up...

Pre soaking PB blaster method works very well and I highly recommend it.

If you're doing the front half shafts, you might as well find a used set of manual hubs! I did for $100 shipped. This will allow you to stay engaged in 4WD while in reverse gear.

There was a huge difference in front end ride quality after the upgrade. I just wish I would have done the control arm bushings.

 

[fo' runnin']

I just did my front end. I threw in 4crawler brass bushings on the new idler arm, and installed BJ spacers so I could ride like a caddy.

The biggest hurdle was the torsion bar bolts. I ended up snapping them in half after trying most every method in the book. Be sure to grab a new pair of bolts and nuts for this so you're not laid up...

Pre soaking PB blaster method works very well and I highly recommend it.

If you're doing the front half shafts, you might as well find a used set of manual hubs! I did for $100 shipped. This will allow you to stay engaged in 4WD while in reverse gear.

There was a huge difference in front end ride quality after the upgrade. I just wish I would have done the control arm bushings.

Awesome! Great info! Thanks!

 

[77'911]

I'll tell you what I did to our 1990 4runner. When this was done, the truck only had 60k or so(ie low mile truck, no off road, etc..). Here's what was done:
1) installed new Toyota torsion bar adjustment hardware
2) Sway-A-Way 25mm torsion bars
3) full urethane suspension bushing kit (uppers, lowers, sway bars, rear control arms, etc)
4) shocks, factory (should have done Bilstein)
5) replaced upper and lower ball joints
6) new front brake hoses, rotors, pads, fluid flush
7) cleaned and repacked front bearings, installed new seals
8) motor mounts
That's all that comes to my feeble mind right now. You find repacking the bearings alone will have a big impact on the steering feel. I'm about to do it again for another time along with tie rod ends, pit arm, idler arm. Have a map gas torch handy, stuff will be stuck. I can tell you, the difference afterwards was tremendous(in a positive way)
Best of luck with it.
regards

 

[Footofgod]

And after spending all that money, you'll just wish you had done a SAS.

 

[fo' runnin']

And after spending all that money, you'll just wish you had done a SAS.

Really not very much money at all when your father-in-law gets big discounts on parts because he owns a Toyota repair shop and I do all of my own work... Although... I guess I should get prices on everything then compare to prices of a SAS and see where I stand and weigh my options... This is my daily driver so I can't have it down longer than a weekend...

 

[KidVermicious]

Could be thousands to do an SAS (although cheaper if you get good deals), and months of prep beforehand while you figure out exactly what your goal is and how you're going to get there. A long day or two of actual work, assuming you've got your ducks in a row.

Not to mention, it might be a downgrade - are you wheeling hard enough to need it? Break a CV or tie rod end yet?

 

[fo' runnin']

I'll tell you what I did to our 1990 4runner. When this was done, the truck only had 60k or so(ie low mile truck, no off road, etc..). Here's what was done:
1) installed new Toyota torsion bar adjustment hardware
2) Sway-A-Way 25mm torsion bars
3) full urethane suspension bushing kit (uppers, lowers, sway bars, rear control arms, etc)
4) shocks, factory (should have done Bilstein)
5) replaced upper and lower ball joints
6) new front brake hoses, rotors, pads, fluid flush
7) cleaned and repacked front bearings, installed new seals
8) motor mounts
That's all that comes to my feeble mind right now. You find repacking the bearings alone will have a big impact on the steering feel. I'm about to do it again for another time along with tie rod ends, pit arm, idler arm. Have a map gas torch handy, stuff will be stuck. I can tell you, the difference afterwards was tremendous(in a positive way)
Best of luck with it.
regards

This is great info! Thank you! I was thinking about doing torsion bars too because my front end dips pretty good when I apply the brakes... she could also use some new brake parts too...

 

[fo' runnin']

Could be thousands to do an SAS (although cheaper if you get good deals), and months of prep beforehand while you figure out exactly what your goal is and how you're going to get there. A long day or two of actual work, assuming you've got your ducks in a row.

Not to mention, it might be a downgrade - are you wheeling hard enough to need it? Break a CV or tie rod end yet?

Yeah, what you've just said is exactly why I just want to rebuild the IFS front end for now and keep the SAS as a long term goal... I don't wheel with it TOO often since it's my daily driver and I drive about 60-70 miles a day in it, but I have already blown up my front diff out messing around... I'm in the process of swapping that out right now, I bought one from a guy on yotatech...

 

[92-SR5]

Could be thousands to do an SAS (although cheaper if you get good deals), and months of prep beforehand while you figure out exactly what your goal is and how you're going to get there. A long day or two of actual work, assuming you've got your ducks in a row.

Not to mention, it might be a downgrade - are you wheeling hard enough to need it? Break a CV or tie rod end yet?

You could probably do an SAS in a weekend. Won't be pretty, but it is probably doable. I would not suggest it. haha Feels like it took me forever to do mine, but I did a LOT of grinding to make sure everything looked clean. There is a lot of cost involved in a SAS. I'm in thousands into my suspension/axles. :ybrick:
If I were you, I'd keep the IFS and just maintain it. It will get you by just fine.

 

[fo' runnin']

You could probably do an SAS in a weekend. Won't be pretty, but it is probably doable. I would not suggest it. haha Feels like it took me forever to do mine, but I did a LOT of grinding to make sure everything looked clean. There is a lot of cost involved in a SAS. I'm in thousands into my suspension/axles. :ybrick:
If I were you, I'd keep the IFS and just maintain it. It will get you by just fine.

Perfect! Thanks man!