That looks like a good fit and fits fairly snug. Guess I will pull the trigger and buy them for my 16 TE to mainly use for a bike rack.
Looks good! A much more compact fit. You can barely tell it's there. As an added benefit it's pulling force puts much less twisting force on the frame rail ends, so it should be stronger too.
Just put the 31054 up for sale on the 5TH Gen For Sale thread to see if there is any interest. However, I ain't holdin' me breath.
Thought you might like to see the final product
First pic is the overall mounting of the two (front / rear) cooler / fishin' rod racks to my 2016 4Runner SR5 4WD
Second pic is the front rack mount using the Curt 31367 front hitch receiver with a Curt 45791 8 inch extender with a Hitch Haul Z / Lift bar that the rack is mounted to. The extender is needed to get the receiver further out so the Z bar clears the bumper.
Third pic is the rear rack mount using the stock rear receiver with a Curt 45792 8 inch dual extender with the rack Z / Lift bar in the top extender receiver.
The turnbuckles / chains seen on both are to prevent the racks from wobbling side to side and bouncing up / down.
This setup vastly improves the approach and departure angles of the two racks over the original setup with the Curt 31054 front receiver and no dual extender on the rear
Ok, no bites on it so I'll give it to anyone who wants to pick it up or pay for packing and shipping.
This link http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/166382-custom-front-shackel-mounts-2.htmlight help. Post #26. "Strong enough" is relative depending on recovery method. I remember this because I spent a lot of time on this answer.Do you guys think that the 31367 is strong enough for front recovery?
It looks like it bolts "straight" onto the frame. I am looking at doing this, for a front mounted Smittybilt receiver shackle for recovery.
Just wanted to get the opinions of you guys that have this front hitch, or others with wisdom on the subject.
Also, Salvo Jimmy, do you know what size the bolts that you needed for the 31367 were? You mentioned them briefly when you made the swap.
Thanks!
Hey guys,
Got my 31367 yesterday. Started getting into the install a little. It indeed will work with some minor bolt problems as described.
What I found. You will need (for my 2014 trail):
(4) 1 1/2" long Metric 10x1.25 bolts....grade 10.9 (which is the metric equiv. of grade 8 as I understand it.)
(4) Grade 8 - 7/16" fender washers for the Metric bolts...they don't make 10.9 washers or Grade 8 metric stuff.
(2) 5/8" 11 pitch Grade 8 carriage bolts- 2 1/2" long. For some reason the ones shipped from Curt I could not get them to start threading since they were so short. (maybe the trail factory tow hooks are a little meatier on the newer models) Reuse the Curt provided flange nuts.
Some of this stuff is hard to get your hands on so don't be like me and prepare ahead of time...everything around here is closed on the weekend and can't be found at Home Depot.
Hope this helps,
Chris
I discovered an alternative front hitch to the Curt models. I recently installed a Draw-Tite front tow hitch. It'll be used to run racks, a recovery point, a temporary winch, or possibly move trailers around. It has a verticle load rating of 500 lbs, and a 9000 lb straight-pull rating.
![]()
Draw-Tite came out with this hitch last year (p/n 65074). It is tucked up against the bottom of the plastic factory radiator cover plate pretty tight, and doesn't use up the factory tie-down points to secure it to the frame the way the Curt hitches do (it uses two of the bumper bracket bolts plus a large side bolt on each frame rail). So using the factory tie-down points to help with angled recovery is still an option. It is a simpler design than the Curt, with thick, straight mounting plates and slightly longer transverse tubes. At 29 lbs, I think it may also be slightly lighter.
![]()
It doesn't compromise the ground clearance, although it probably does reduce the approach angle (this truck's is not a rock crawler anyway).
![]()