Front TrueTrac Install - CV Axle Fitment Tech

[etrnlrvr]

I have a 02 Reg cab Taco that I had a local gear specialist install Truetracs in. I drove the truck to Mexico not long after and while there the driver side CV pulled out enough from the diff to leak gear oil out twice.

The 1st time I was able to push it back in and I chalked it up to maybe never being seated properly. The second time I was close enough to a town that I took it to someone to look at. They were supposed to text me to look at the shaft with it out but did not and with my crap Spanish my understanding is maybe the splines were buggered up and he filed the clip retaining groove some to get it to seat better. But I am not really sure due to the language barrier.

It popped out again the 3rd time and with limited tools I could not get it back in so now I am more worried things got buggered up inside.

But this time I am back home in the states and can properly address the issue.

So I am wondering if there is an issue with the TT diff in addition to the CV's being different like the clip groove in the diff is further inboard from OEM too?

Did ECG ever mention if they found differences in the TT diff compared to OEM?

My vehicle is stock and the conditions that have triggered this so far were mild 4-lo off-roading to 2wd street driving so far. In between I did thousands of miles of driving and some pretty hard core off-roading and had no issues so its not anything extreme triggering the shaft to move outboard.

I'm hesitant to take it back to the place I went to because if there is nothing wrong with the install I'm not sure they are going to be able to do anything for me. So I am thinking of instead sending it to ECG, especially because I want to do a manual hub conversion too.

Are you still having no issues with your setup? I really want to be done with the front diff this time. It ruined a bucket list, hopefully not once in a lifetime, trip for me already since it seemed like even buying a new CV would not help me in Mexico so I had to bail. I would rather shell out for an elocker or even go back to an open diff rather than ruin another trip for me.

Funny thing is I researched the hell out of the TT in an ADD vehicle because I was really hesitant and could not find any big issues. Your thread was started about a month after I had already swapped LOL

FWIW I really really like the twin TT setup I have and would like to keep it if I can. It has served me well on some pretty tough trails and just general overlanding stuff. What has amazed me is how much it comes in handy in variable conditions and still lets me turn the vehicle with ease unlike a full locker. Not as capable in extreme situations as a locker but a lot easier on the vehicle and with left foot braking it is good enough for me in the extreme stuff.

 

[JZiggy]

[MENTION=355350]etrnlrvr[/MENTION]

I don't know the answers to all your questions but I think posing them to ECGS is a good one. You should also try to determine the part number of the diff you got from Eaton. What I can say is that my setup has performed fine with hundreds of miles of offroad driving. No fluid leaks, nothing weird at all, just the performance expected from a limited slip up front.

The reason for manual hubs with the TT is more because of the lack of needle bearings in the TT differential carrier (which ECGS can remedy with their bushing) than because of axle fitment. If the D/S axle isn't seating positively then it's a problem for ADD or manual hubs.

Good luck!

 

[etrnlrvr]

Thanks for the reposnse.

Unfortunately the lack of needle bearings in the carrier I also did not discover until after mine was already installed. Double unfortunately all the manual hub donor vehicles near me in Detroit were just too rusty to yank components off of or I would already have them in there which may have made the issue more noticeable before I took off on my long trip. Who knows though.

I'm really leaning towards looking at the splines myself and then just shipping the thing off to ECG if it is damaged. At this point even if I need a whole new TT it will still be my cheapest option other than going back to an open diff. I don't really trust trying to exlain this whole thing from scratch and then add in the variable ov a manual hub conversion.

Plus this truck was bought used. For all I know it has the wrong CVs in it, all though they look like OEMs.

 

[pavelvoivoda]

There were no 3rd gen 4Runners made without ADD...

I know it has been awhile, but just wanted to add to this thread "...in the US".

My 4runner here in Bulgaria used to have a non ADD front diff, before I installed the upgraded transfer (with the center diff locking function) as the controller has a front actuator (vacuum or electrical ADD) and it controls it, when switching between 2x4 and 4x4.

Here is the part number of a CV axle for non-ADD diff - 4343035030.

I just checked that it's the same CV axle used in both markets.And JZiggy, you are right that there were no nonADD 3gen 4runners in the US. I think it's mainly because of driver convenience, but also maybe for some fuel economy.

I think when i did the transfer upgrade from VF2A to VF3AM, I think I used the original CV axles. I dont remember using ones from an ADD diff.

Anyway it hasnt failed me yet. All works great.