Frozen alignment cam bolt

HokieRunner

New member
So long story short, in process of lower control arm removal to upgrade bushings (the current ones are shot) while I install my coil overs....drivers side came off easy but the passenger side front cams are seized. The bolt is out but the cam sleeve and bushing sleeve are fused. I've tried heat, pb blast, hammer, you name it. They're stuck and will be removed first thing in the AM with a saw.

Anyone know if non dealers carry these parts? I have an order for all new cams etc but they won't be here til Tuesday :ybrick:
 
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So long story short, in process of lower control arm removal to upgrade bushings (the current ones are shot) while I install my coil overs....drivers side came off easy but the passenger side front cams are seized. The bolt is out but the cam sleeve and bushing sleeve are fused. I've tried heat, pb blast, hammer, you name it. They're stuck and will be removed first thing in the AM with a saw.

Anyone know if non dealers carry these parts? I have an order for all new cams etc but they won't be here til Tuesday :ybrick:

I have the same problem. After I lift my 4runner, I went in for an alignment but they could not do the alignment. The front cam is stuck sleeve is stuck and won't budge. The shop use an air hammer to loosen it but was not able to get it loose. I am interested in how you separate the cam sleeve from the bushing sleeve.
 
Seems like a common occurrence. I ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut it off. Then put all new parts in using a liberal amount of anti seize. Dealer usually takes a day or two to get in the parts since they're not normally stocked items.

I was lucky in so much as I was already planning on replacing the bushings as well.
 
My passenger side cam bolts are also seized. Could this a common occurrence like seized front brake calipers, CV boot leak, etc.. for our 4rs?

[MENTION=46025]HokieRunner[/MENTION], have you tried conicelli (partz.net) or a local parts store like Carquest?

2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Parts - Conicelli Parts Center

Item #15?

From everything I've read this has been an issue on a lot of Toyota trucks. Not just our 4th Gens. And a lot of people may have frozen cams but don't find out until they try to install new parts or really change up their alignment.

I tried just about every local parts store when I ran into this issue. Even ones that specialize in Toyota aftermarket parts. Here's a summarization of my findings:

Cam bolts/alignment tabs CAN ONLY be sourced through the dealer. No other option. Dealers usually don't stock them either. When I looked for mine, there was one dealer in Texas and one in Maine that had them in stock. It took two days to get them.

Front bushings on LCA (keep in mind the front bushing and rear bushing on the LCA are different - some parts stores carry them. Usually not in stock and I know NAPA has a 'redesigned' version of the front version. Probably safest going w/ the dealer.

I've used Partznet for other items and I'm sure they'd be fine. I was just more comfortable going over every single part number with the local dealer so there was zero mixup. I have all the item codes and bags I saved at home if anyone needs part numbers.
 
I have the same issue. How hard is it to cut these out? My shop says 15 hours with a saws-all. (!)
 
Took me all of 2 mins with a reciprocating saw and 2 blades (first one was already kinda worn). Cutting that LCA off was like catching a trophy fish too after an hour of trying to hammer the bolt out. If my neighbors were watching me they probably thought I was crazy with how happy I was to get that thing off the truck!

15 hours?! I hope they were kidding.
 
I've used Partznet for other items and I'm sure they'd be fine. I was just more comfortable going over every single part number with the local dealer so there was zero mixup. I have all the item codes and bags I saved at home if anyone needs part numbers.

Can you provide the part numbers for me? I will need to order replacement parts when I attempt to get the cam sleeve out.
 
I don't know about you guys, but I see a lot of high mileage cars and usually if they got cam bolts and they haven't been touched in 100k. They get sticky or in some cases (excessive rust being an example) fused together.

The thing I hear commonly with our trucks (4Runners, FJ's, Tacomas) is bent/broken Cam alignment tabs... but that's more likely due to having a ton of fun than a design issue.
 
Can you provide the part numbers for me? I will need to order replacement parts when I attempt to get the cam sleeve out.

Here's a pic of my order. The bushing is for the front one. Def verify with the parts guy that you're getting all the parts you need.

And they butchered my name on the bill...just noticed that haha

7eacf911323607daf924e1e1b01a46e6.jpg~original
 
This is very common in Tacomas and therefore , as they share suspension design and components, 4Runners. My 2003 Tacoma had all 4 alignment cams frozen in place. It took several hours, saws, chisels and presses to get them out. The bushings were replaced with aftermarket units and the cam bolts replaces with new Toyota pieces.

My advice to anyone with movable alignment cams to pull them out, clean up the corrosion and lubricate the hell out of them with something totally waterproof. We used anti-seize, but I have seen that wash out, in the future I would use marine grease or brake caliper grease, both hold up under water. Toyota puts these together dry, hence the issue.
 
Like others, I too recently had an alignment and believe my camber numbers were +0.3 (L) and +0.5 (R). Tech said that when he tried to adjust the cam bolts they would just return to there normal position. He also said my lower ball joints were leaking a tad (result of lift).

Service advisor said the lower control arms would have to be replaced to remedy these two issues. I call BS on that. Defiantly the cam bolts, but what about the ball joints? There not welded in the lower control arms are they? Think they just wanted the easy way out...

Now, if you want to replace the cam bolt, don't you just do like others described. That is, take an electric saw to the bolt and get the bushing and all the other shit out of there?
 
Like others, I too recently had an alignment and believe my camber numbers were +0.3 (L) and +0.5 (R). Tech said that when he tried to adjust the cam bolts they would just return to there normal position. He also said my lower ball joints were leaking a tad (result of lift).

Service advisor said the lower control arms would have to be replaced to remedy these two issues. I call BS on that. Defiantly the cam bolts, but what about the ball joints? There not welded in the lower control arms are they? Think they just wanted the easy way out...

Now, if you want to replace the cam bolt, don't you just do like others described. That is, take an electric saw to the bolt and get the bushing and all the other shit out of there?

Whether or not you'll have to replace the lower control arm is probably more of a cost break point issue. And to me it's kind of a case by case determination.

For example: if you have to cut off both the front and rear LCA (lower control arm) bushings due to frozen cams, you'll end up needing new cams and bushings. The new bushings will have to be pressed in. So you're looking at $100 in parts + labor to do the pressing for 2 new bushings each side and I'm pretty sure you can source an after market LCA which comes bolt in ready with new bushings and ball joint for $150.

If you only have one frozen cam on a side with a good ball joint...it might be worth just getting a new bushing pressed in.

I ended up rebuilding my LCAs (only one frozen cam of the four) with poly bushings and will be putting in new ball joints this weekend. While it will end up being about the same cost as buying new aftermarket ones, I do have a good bit of time invested in labor but I didn't trust the OEM rubber bushings after seeing how badly they had deteriorated so really wanted to try the poly.

So, depending on how many bushings will need to be replaced, the mechanic might just be right and it might be cheaper and easier in the end for a whole new arm.

On a side note; if the lower ball joint is just weeping and still good, you can just reboot it with a Toyota boot kit. And...shameless plug here, I coincidentally have 2 new kits for discounted sale in the classifieds :high5:
 
Thanks for the explanation. I'll have to mull this one over. Don't think there's an immediate need at the moment.
 
Yeah I got online and added up the parts to do all 4 bushings with new bolts and it would come out around $300 just for parts, not including labor. So it's going to be a while before I touch mine.
 

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