Frozen Calipers - How many others had this problem?

[Trialsmaster2]

You can add me to the list. Had the '05 Limited 4Runner go in for brake servicing at a local repair shop a few weeks back...sure enough on of the fronts was frozen at 200,000km. Had both front calipers replaced as a precaution. The 4Runner didn't pull one way or the other during braking prior to the servicing, but I definitely noticed improved braking after.

 

[toyo]

Frozen up at 170,000 ish km. Probably sooner as I notice my mpgs have been bad.

Freed it up at first, but it seized again soon after. I have a reman caliper ready to be installed this evening if all goes well.

Hoping I don't have to bleed all breaks... tbd. Not familiar with that process, I hope I can find it in the service manuals?

Did you get it all taken care of? Let me know if you need any help with the bleeding. Be more than happy to help.




JG

Did you get it all taken care of? Let me know if you need any help with the bleeding. Be more than happy to help.

 

[jacal]

Did you get it all taken care of? Let me know if you need any help with the bleeding. Be more than happy to help.

So overall it went pretty well. Some lessons learned tho...

First the problem:
-problems started likely year(s) ago, but I ignored (worsening mpgs, worse braking, etc.)
-finally couldn't ignore that suv wouldn't creep from a stop, and made noise when doing that.
-tonnes of brake dust from the passenger side (although at first I only thought drv side)

Work done:
-bought a replacement drv caliper (reman centrix <sp> $150), and installed it. Testing showed the steering would pull hard left under braking...so
-bought a replacement pass caliper, and installed. Noticed 1 pad wore itself into a triangle shape (not good).
-bought front pads toyota oem ($115 Cdn)

Work not done:
-I left the rotors in. Didn't test them for run out or anything, they just look ok, so let's hope they are fine.


Lessons/comments:
-I found it difficult to put the brake line back in to the new caliper...and the torque seemed way to low. So my lines leaked until I really tightened them up very very firmly.

-the caliper bolts can be difficult. turning the wheels for access, using leverage, penetrating oils, hammering your cheapest wrench, and a low powered impact (to get that good automatic hammering action) can help allot.

-I should check calipers routinely... the other side, while not totally frozen, had one caliper sticking a bit, which burned up my pad extremely unevenly. So I ended up replacing pads as well!

-I ignored the Toyota bleed method and just went old school...pump pump pump, hold down, have someone release the valve, then tighten and pump pump pump until the bleeder valve has nothing but brake fluid.

-that is a large brake fluid container! buy lots!

Final lesson - this is within the realm of DIY. Unfortunately I had issues with my other vehicle at the same time, so bad timing. BUT pricing this stuff at toyota (I'm in Canada, where toyota double the cost of the parts and has very expensive service rates) was $675 for 1 caliper!!! Ouch! I did 2, plus I did the pads, so the costs would have been astronomical...this 2-3 evenings of "work" represented a good chance to learn and a huge savings.


EDIT: I've been thinking about reasons why the calipers may have failed. We have sever temperatures here, and get lots of salt on the roads as well. However, the biggest difference lately has been the fact that I have used indoor parking on/off for the past couple years. I bet the temp changes (-30C to +15C) are harder on the suv then I might have realized. Naturally, it might have happened anyway, just a thought.




J

 

[2StepsAhead]

Just replaced everything, noticed both of my rears dragging...the passenger side got it the worst. Used a digital thermometer and noticed one side was getting scorching hot.

Went with the NAPA calipers all around just to be safe and start from scratch, akebono pads/centric rotors. So far so good, although someone mustve hammered on my hub and it was grinding on the rotor which took hours to figure out lol. Hoping everything holds up for a few years...

 

[montana_jeepn]

Just replaced everything, noticed both of my rears dragging...the passenger side got it the worst. Used a digital thermometer and noticed one side was getting scorching hot.

Went with the NAPA calipers all around just to be safe and start from scratch, akebono pads/centric rotors. So far so good, although someone mustve hammered on my hub and it was grinding on the rotor which took hours to figure out lol. Hoping everything holds up for a few years...

Which model calipers did you go with?

 

[Brutalguyracing]

Just replaced everything, noticed both of my rears dragging...the passenger side got it the worst. Used a digital thermometer and noticed one side was getting scorching hot.

Went with the NAPA calipers all around just to be safe and start from scratch, akebono pads/centric rotors. So far so good, although someone mustve hammered on my hub and it was grinding on the rotor which took hours to figure out lol. Hoping everything holds up for a few years...

So overall it went pretty well. Some lessons learned tho...

First the problem:
-problems started likely year(s) ago, but I ignored (worsening mpgs, worse braking, etc.)
-finally couldn't ignore that suv wouldn't creep from a stop, and made noise when doing that.
-tonnes of brake dust from the passenger side (although at first I only thought drv side)

Work done:
-bought a replacement drv caliper (reman centrix <sp> $150), and installed it. Testing showed the steering would pull hard left under braking...so
-bought a replacement pass caliper, and installed. Noticed 1 pad wore itself into a triangle shape (not good).
-bought front pads toyota oem ($115 Cdn)

Work not done:
-I left the rotors in. Didn't test them for run out or anything, they just look ok, so let's hope they are fine.


Lessons/comments:
-I found it difficult to put the brake line back in to the new caliper...and the torque seemed way to low. So my lines leaked until I really tightened them up very very firmly.

-the caliper bolts can be difficult. turning the wheels for access, using leverage, penetrating oils, hammering your cheapest wrench, and a low powered impact (to get that good automatic hammering action) can help allot.

-I should check calipers routinely... the other side, while not totally frozen, had one caliper sticking a bit, which burned up my pad extremely unevenly. So I ended up replacing pads as well!

-I ignored the Toyota bleed method and just went old school...pump pump pump, hold down, have someone release the valve, then tighten and pump pump pump until the bleeder valve has nothing but brake fluid.

-that is a large brake fluid container! buy lots!

Final lesson - this is within the realm of DIY. Unfortunately I had issues with my other vehicle at the same time, so bad timing. BUT pricing this stuff at toyota (I'm in Canada, where toyota double the cost of the parts and has very expensive service rates) was $675 for 1 caliper!!! Ouch! I did 2, plus I did the pads, so the costs would have been astronomical...this 2-3 evenings of "work" represented a good chance to learn and a huge savings.


EDIT: I've been thinking about reasons why the calipers may have failed. We have sever temperatures here, and get lots of salt on the roads as well. However, the biggest difference lately has been the fact that I have used indoor parking on/off for the past couple years. I bet the temp changes (-30C to +15C) are harder on the suv then I might have realized. Naturally, it might have happened anyway, just a thought.




J

just did mine today
and just a fyi
they seize up not because of road salt/ ect. but due to not flushing new clean brake fluid every 2 years or better
brake fluid retains moisture like no other

 

[2StepsAhead]

Which model calipers did you go with?

Napa Eclipse

 

[ben550]

Frozen Calipers

Burning rubber smell when I parked after driving home from work.

Front drivers side wheel hot, caliper frozen.

Picked up two Duralast rebuilt calipers from AutoZone for 79.99 each along with a jug of DOT3 fluid. (Figured I'd do both calipers at the same time due to their old age and mileage.)

Pulled off the calipers. Drivers side had three of four frozen pistons, passenger side one of four frozen. Replaced both, kept the old pads.

Made sure to bleed the brakes without draining the reservoir.

Tested out and brakes are smooth with good stopping power.

Total cost was $170...

Not bad considering the dealer wanted $230 for just one caliper not including labor...

 

[Brutalguyracing]

Now do a complete fluid flush to prevent this from happening

 

[Billynath1988]

Just had to replace both front calipers.. I have the larger sport edition calipers.

Both original with 105k on them..
The passenger side outer 2 pistons were frozen.
The Drivers side lower inner piston was frozen.

Replaced with Raybestos Pro grade calipers.
Also did a complete brake fluid flush.

Changed rotors to Raybestos r300 rotors in the front and Pro grade in the back
Pads changed to akbano premium ceramic OEM all 4 corners.

Pedal feel is excellent... Truck stops smooth.. Straight and hard enough to put you thru the windshield if needed lol.

 

[rhchan84]

Just had it happen to me. 89k miles on it. Both were the outside positions. Both inner positions on both calipers were fine.

Then it also happened on my dad's 08 highlander. About 91k miles.

 

[Jerrydog]

Both my fronts were toast this spring, pads worn crooked because of calipers partially seized up. It pretty pathetic considering my 97 NISSAN Pathfinder still had original equipment calipers and cylinders at 300,000 miles.....

 

[SolRayz]

With all this concern over frozen calipers, I've decided to take my '03 Runner to the local shop for a brake inspection before an upcoming road trip. I've not really noticed any issues, vibrations, or sounds from my brakes and am doing it as a precautionary measure. Also being a Florida vehicle and despite 130K miles on the ODO, there is zero rust down below.

Should we all be concerned about this problem or is this mostly affecting 4Runners up North?

 

[Billynath1988]

I had very little if any corrosion on my any brake components and the caliper still seized.. Id check it at least once a year..

 

[Brutalguyracing]

Again
Most seized calipers are due to moisture in your brake fluid
Change your brake fluid every 2 years minimum
Pick up some speed bleeders for $30 and it makes it a real breeze

 

[SlvrV8Rnnr]

I went to the dealership this week for new brake pads and ended up needing new calipers. Quoted me $340ish for new toyota calipers and $93ish for aftermarket ones. The tech said the aftermarket ones were just as good and that I was just paying for the toyota name on the other ones. The embarrassing squealing and squeaking is finally gone when applying the brakes!

 

[rhchan84]

I just had to do mine. Went with aftermarket ones and it cost me $200 for both.

 

[Chihlidog]

Add me to the list. Just bought my 4runner 2 months ago. 112k, no idea if the calipers have ever been replaced.

I'm pretty ticked off. 12k at a Ford Dealership. I bought a Ford ESP ExtraCare warranty with it, waiting to hear back from the dealership to see what they're going to cover.

There's no way this was not seized when I bought it, going by the amount of uneven wear on the pad. So, assuming they cover the caliper itself under warranty (they darn well better, it's listed) I am betting they're going to want to rake me for new pads, since they arent covered under warranty.

Hoping I can convince them that if it werent for the caliper failing, which they SHOULD have noticed before I bought it, then I would not NEED new pads. But we will see.

EDIT: Make that almost 3 months ago. May 24th I bought it. Was purchased as-is, bought the ExtraCare with it. Did not expect a problem so soon. Definitely didnt need it.

 

[Chihlidog]

Spoke to the Ford warranty department today. The dealership gave me the runaround, but the Ford warranty is the real deal. Bought the ExtraCare warranty with the 4runner since I bought it used from a Ford dealership.

Caliper is going to be replaced under warranty, as are both sets of front pads. Pads on the frozen side are considered damaged due to the frozen caliper. Both sets get done because, of course, they consider both sets of pads necessary for a complete job. Good deal. I can take it anywhere I want so long as they're certified. It will also cover a rental car up to $30 a day.

Not sure how it works anywhere else, but aftermarket warranties are usually completely worthless. Considering that Ford is holding to their end of the deal no problem (dealership goofiness aside), felt is was worthwhile to post it up here.

 

[highrevphoto]

Changed out the rear rotor and pads today on my 04' Limited 4wd. Should you be able to compress the piston by hand easily on a normal working caliper? For mine I needed to use a wrench and lots of strength to compress it 1/4" to fit on the new pads. Safe to assume its time to replace the caliper?