RAZsRunner
New member
I would certainly love to buy a pair when they become available. PM sent!
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FS: 3d Printed SR5 Flare Caps $80 3rd gen
- Thread starter D Farms
- Start date
D Farms
New member
Hey guys, semesters over and was able to get my printer going again. I should have 5 "RAW 3D PRINTED" sets ready on monday. When I have them done, I will pm the first 5 people to post after this post that are ready to pay. They are $80. If you dont know how 3d printing works, do some research so you know what to expect.
If you plan to finish them yourself, I suggest using a sandable self leveling primer on top($6 at autozone), and then painting with a trim paint or flat black paint. I think they actually look good raw, they blend in pretty well after going wheeling a few times.
Thanks.
If you plan to finish them yourself, I suggest using a sandable self leveling primer on top($6 at autozone), and then painting with a trim paint or flat black paint. I think they actually look good raw, they blend in pretty well after going wheeling a few times.
Thanks.
Attachments
Last edited:
RAZsRunner
New member
Ill take a set, my good man! Ready to pay. Thanks!
D Farms
New member
[MENTION=101831]C-RAIG[/MENTION]
[MENTION=76881]squabeggz[/MENTION]
[MENTION=73515]ajonesnv[/MENTION]
[MENTION=96718]twaite88[/MENTION]
[MENTION=120611]geezerr54[/MENTION]
[MENTION=115592]bugman-74[/MENTION]
[MENTION=121873]trd4x4[/MENTION]
[MENTION=107706]gneissguy[/MENTION]
[MENTION=117137]jonasty[/MENTION]
[MENTION=112621]drdvlmark[/MENTION]
Alright I figured I might as would tag everyone here. I am printing a huge batch of caps, thats what im calling them now. Keep an eye on the thread if you are interested in the smoothed ones. if you want a raw 3d printed set pm me I have two left right now ready to ship out
as far as the smooth ones go, I may or may not be moving away from the acetone. I have thickened certain parts of the flare to make it stronger so strength is not an issue, but its very hard to get the finish consistently smooth with no bubbles or melted features. As of right now no smooth sets are available until I figure out a more streamlined process. I will post when there are sets available and I am currently printing sets pretty much non-stop. A lot of times a smooth set will get messed up and I have to make a new set, and so this is why it takes longer sometimes to make them.
Im also going to put some blemished ones up for a heavy discount, so if you are on a budget keep an eye out
Thanks,
D Farms
[MENTION=76881]squabeggz[/MENTION]
[MENTION=73515]ajonesnv[/MENTION]
[MENTION=96718]twaite88[/MENTION]
[MENTION=120611]geezerr54[/MENTION]
[MENTION=115592]bugman-74[/MENTION]
[MENTION=121873]trd4x4[/MENTION]
[MENTION=107706]gneissguy[/MENTION]
[MENTION=117137]jonasty[/MENTION]
[MENTION=112621]drdvlmark[/MENTION]
Alright I figured I might as would tag everyone here. I am printing a huge batch of caps, thats what im calling them now. Keep an eye on the thread if you are interested in the smoothed ones. if you want a raw 3d printed set pm me I have two left right now ready to ship out
as far as the smooth ones go, I may or may not be moving away from the acetone. I have thickened certain parts of the flare to make it stronger so strength is not an issue, but its very hard to get the finish consistently smooth with no bubbles or melted features. As of right now no smooth sets are available until I figure out a more streamlined process. I will post when there are sets available and I am currently printing sets pretty much non-stop. A lot of times a smooth set will get messed up and I have to make a new set, and so this is why it takes longer sometimes to make them.
Im also going to put some blemished ones up for a heavy discount, so if you are on a budget keep an eye out
Thanks,
D Farms
ajonesnv
New member
I'm still in for a normal set or a blemish set if you end up with any. Thanks dude!!
Last edited:
D Farms
New member
HOW TO: FINISH RAW 3d PRINTED PARTS
Ok so a bunch of you guys have ordered the raw ones now and this is a tutorial on how to finish them.
Materials:
Raw Flare caps
Rustoleum 2-in-1 Filler primer
Your favorite Flat black paint
Sand paper/ sanding block/ or headlight polishing kit if your fancy(it has a rotary attachment that works wonders and you can get a glossy finish
Knife
Step 1: Check Fit and Adjust
Check to see if the part fits correctly, bolt it on using the coarse thread screws, any of a similar size to oem will work. There is some play in the fitment, as there are slots designed in, but not all of them come out exactly the same and sometimes the fit can be slightly off. if the fit is not perfect, dont worry, hit it with a heat gun or blowdryer and you can actually reshape the plastic to fit perfectly. Even if it just needs to be flexed a bit make sure to hit it with the heatgun to relax the plastic, this will prevent the paint from cracking when you put it on later, and also having a part under stress reduces its life. If you are having problems with the fitment, send me a pm
DO NOT USE THE HEATGUN AFTER ITS BEEN PAINTED, OR ACETONE TREATED!
Step 2: Prep
Get a knife and scrape off any boogers on the surface, specifically right where the red arrows are in picture 1. if you scrape down the surface layers to be more flat where the green arrow is pointing, it will make it a lot easier later on.
Step 3: Filling and Priming
After all the boogers are gone, blow off any plastic shavings from scraping and set your pieces up, alternate between the positions in picture 2 and 3 so you get everything. Get out the 2 in 1 filler and primer and start laying down coats, just dont overdo it to the point where its running. I found it helps to have a fan pointed at the parts while they are drying inbetween coats, but make sure no debris gets on them! Id put probably between 6-8 or more coats on them. you should alternate the part between the two positions to get even coverage.
Step 4: Sanding
Wait the full 4 hours before doing this step, trust be its worth waiting. you can use a foam sanding block or whatever you have to sand the filler down until its smooth, from my experience in order to get rid of the ridges, it had to be sanded even though it was supposedly self leveling. sand it down till the ridges are gone, then wipe off with a damp rag.
Step 5: Final Paint
hit it with a couple light coats of the primer and then 2-3 coats of your favorite black paint or truck bed liner. wait for it to dry then install.
Ok so a bunch of you guys have ordered the raw ones now and this is a tutorial on how to finish them.
Materials:
Raw Flare caps
Rustoleum 2-in-1 Filler primer
Your favorite Flat black paint
Sand paper/ sanding block/ or headlight polishing kit if your fancy(it has a rotary attachment that works wonders and you can get a glossy finish
Knife
Step 1: Check Fit and Adjust
Check to see if the part fits correctly, bolt it on using the coarse thread screws, any of a similar size to oem will work. There is some play in the fitment, as there are slots designed in, but not all of them come out exactly the same and sometimes the fit can be slightly off. if the fit is not perfect, dont worry, hit it with a heat gun or blowdryer and you can actually reshape the plastic to fit perfectly. Even if it just needs to be flexed a bit make sure to hit it with the heatgun to relax the plastic, this will prevent the paint from cracking when you put it on later, and also having a part under stress reduces its life. If you are having problems with the fitment, send me a pm
DO NOT USE THE HEATGUN AFTER ITS BEEN PAINTED, OR ACETONE TREATED!
Step 2: Prep
Get a knife and scrape off any boogers on the surface, specifically right where the red arrows are in picture 1. if you scrape down the surface layers to be more flat where the green arrow is pointing, it will make it a lot easier later on.
Step 3: Filling and Priming
After all the boogers are gone, blow off any plastic shavings from scraping and set your pieces up, alternate between the positions in picture 2 and 3 so you get everything. Get out the 2 in 1 filler and primer and start laying down coats, just dont overdo it to the point where its running. I found it helps to have a fan pointed at the parts while they are drying inbetween coats, but make sure no debris gets on them! Id put probably between 6-8 or more coats on them. you should alternate the part between the two positions to get even coverage.
Step 4: Sanding
Wait the full 4 hours before doing this step, trust be its worth waiting. you can use a foam sanding block or whatever you have to sand the filler down until its smooth, from my experience in order to get rid of the ridges, it had to be sanded even though it was supposedly self leveling. sand it down till the ridges are gone, then wipe off with a damp rag.
Step 5: Final Paint
hit it with a couple light coats of the primer and then 2-3 coats of your favorite black paint or truck bed liner. wait for it to dry then install.
