Fuel Tank Relocation (and new Rear Bumper design)
- Thread starter jkeith.w
- Start date
theesotericone
New member
Rotopax don't vent. They're a sealed system.
Why not use the canister? Speeding it's demise is way better then smelling fumes everyday. Evap systems my be the go to thing for the EPA but they serve a real life purpose. To stop me from having to smell gas fumes. They even work, unlike the EPA.
LMAO. Rock hugger and tree hugger is a huge difference. Screw trees.
https://www.climbing.com/news/joe-kinder-reflects-on-aftermath-of-controversial-tree-cutting-incident/
psraff
New member
Well I have to vent my jerry can every time I want to pull it out of my bumper. It swells so much I can't get it out otherwise.
psraff
New member
Now that article is FUNNY!!! :jaw::jaw:
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
there is actually a Toyota Y pipe for dual tanks; I'll try to recall what vehicle/market it was for (not US, obviously)
octanejunkie
Elite Member
A bunch of posts on IH8MUD about this very topic
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AssBurns
New member
So for venting, the F-150 tank has a single vent tube at the top center with a rollover check valve. Now I only have the single F-150 tank so mine is gonna be a tad simpler than a dual tank setup. But I just connected the vent line to the stock EVAP line. Now I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t connect both tanks to the same EVAP vent line via a T fitting. As long as both gas caps are working properly, I don’t see why it would throw any codes or cause issues with the EVAP system. Also if you want to simplify things even more and not deal with the Charcoal Canister possibly failing early, you can just ditch the canister and run the lines straight to the vapor purge valve. I did that a few months ago with no issues. I don’t think I’ve even thrown any EVAP codes besides system rich code every once in a while (I guess I have thrown EVAP codes then, huh?). Anyways, I think if you are trying to keep things as simple as possible, you could possibly just let both pumps run concurrently at all times (probably not the best option since if one gets less return flow than the other, it will drain one tank faster, therefore burning up a pump prematurely). Another simple option is to put a set of switches on the pressure and return lines, then a selector switch for whatever tank you want to pump from. This would just be a PITA since you would have to get out and manually switch the pressure and return line valves. Last option I can think of is just use on of the Ford, or Chevy selector valves and figure out how to let that do all the work. I’d think having two fuel gauges would be way more simple and much more accurate since the gauges work on a totally different ohms spectrums, while also reading in opposing directions on the spectrum. I couldn’t figure how to make the stock gauge even work for the ford sending unit. One uses 2 wires while the other uses 3. There might be a way to make it work but I couldn’t figure it out...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
If you do dual tanks with the selector switch and valve then all fuel delivery goes through the factory fuel filter. Also don't forget that the pickup has a screen on it. You could always throw up EFI rated 40 or 50 Micron inline fuel filter on the output
rkntoy
New member
My thought was to just pump from one tank to the main tank and have a gauge and a switch on the aux. I guess just a simple T would work for the fillers - I was trying to make it more complicated. As long as the closed system remains a closed system it shouldn't throw any codes.
Thinking something like this:
Thinking something like this:
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AssBurns
New member
I created a quick little diagram to explain what I think would be the simplest/ best solution.
I think having separate filler necks would make things extremely simple since each tank has a different way of venting, and uses different size filler necks. No valves or weird engineering to design, or worries about proper filling or leaking issues.
EVAP would just be a T-fitting between the two EVAP lines. Just let both tanks breath directly to the EVAP system. I can't see why that would be any sort of issue.
Selector Valve from a Ford or Chevy dual tank setup. Figure out the wiring, which should be super simple.
Do a secondary fuel gauge for the Ford tank/sending unit. That way you don't have to deal with accuracy issues or weird wiring setups. Let both tanks have their own gauge. I know my gauge is pretty accurate for the Ford tank. Maybe even wire the gauge with a relay to only be on when the Ford tank is in use? I wouldn't even mess with that myself. Just let them always be on and mount the second gauge out the way somewhere. I mounted next to the map lights/ sunglasses holder. It's never been in my way or a distraction.
I think having separate filler necks would make things extremely simple since each tank has a different way of venting, and uses different size filler necks. No valves or weird engineering to design, or worries about proper filling or leaking issues.
EVAP would just be a T-fitting between the two EVAP lines. Just let both tanks breath directly to the EVAP system. I can't see why that would be any sort of issue.
Selector Valve from a Ford or Chevy dual tank setup. Figure out the wiring, which should be super simple.
Do a secondary fuel gauge for the Ford tank/sending unit. That way you don't have to deal with accuracy issues or weird wiring setups. Let both tanks have their own gauge. I know my gauge is pretty accurate for the Ford tank. Maybe even wire the gauge with a relay to only be on when the Ford tank is in use? I wouldn't even mess with that myself. Just let them always be on and mount the second gauge out the way somewhere. I mounted next to the map lights/ sunglasses holder. It's never been in my way or a distraction.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
this
rkntoy
New member
Still left with where to easily mount second filler. I don't want one in my wheel well. Long Range Automotive has some dual fill necks and Patrolapart has one I like better but I think it is too big to fit.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
This is the challenge
AssBurns
New member
Wow that's pretty expensive! You would have to weld on another bung to the f-150 tank to change the filler vent style from internally vented to externally vented. (More modifications=more issues) And I doubt that would fit in the stock fuel door location either.
What is your reluctance to just having a 2nd filler neck in the wheel well? Just something simple tucked back just enough to be out of the way, but still accessible enough for a fuel nozzle to get to.
Here is the internally vented filler neck that I use for my f-150 tank.
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/2-cab-and-chassis-internally-vented-fuel-filler-neck-gas/
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Nice
I just harvested a few from the junkyard when I did the fender fill mod on my Chevy (moved gas tank out of the cab to behind the rear axle)
Pic of mounting?
psraff
New member
Just run it to your cupholder between your front seats. Imagine the looks you get every time you fuel up. LOL
octanejunkie
Elite Member
In lieu of the clock...
What time is it? Time to get gas!
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AssBurns
New member
It is mounted in the stock fuel door. I'm just running a single tank, so I don't have to worry about this dual fuel filler neck BS. Just here for some support :hatsoff:
:rofl:
