HI how are you? I am looking at the Sherp a option too.
Did you place front light bar and any other light pods around?
Thanks.
Full Length Low Profile Racks - recommendations?
- Thread starter Farzad_K
- Start date
HI how are you? I am looking at the Sherp a option too.
Did you place front light bar and any other light pods around?
Thanks.
momo.75
Registered User
Yes, I have the light bar on the front, 3 scene lights on each side and dust lights on the rear. If you go to my build thread you can see some pics.
2021nightshade4x4
New member
“Full length” does this imply there is no sunroof?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
vanclevesT4R
New member
Do you have any pictures of this rack?
Offroad Architect
New member
The full-length Prinsu does the same thing in terms of front rubber feet. Ultimately I went with Prinsu because of a combination of price and availability (I just bought mine this summer with a discount code). I personally like the look of the Gobi rack, but the low profile Prinsu allows me to throw my canoe on top without any issues. If you build a small collection of carriage bolts, washers, and wing nuts, you can secure a lot of equipment on it in a very clean streamlined way. I used Cabela gift cards to purchase a couple of Pelican cases for recovery gear and camping equipment. I just measured out where to make holes for the carriage bolts and secured the cases from the inside with the wingnuts and washers. I'm not disappointed with it at all.
mtn_climber
New member
Might want to add the ARB Base Rack to your comparison as well.
*edit: Completely missed the Base Rack specifications. Looks like the rack is only available in the 61" length.
*edit: Completely missed the Base Rack specifications. Looks like the rack is only available in the 61" length.
Last edited:
Ia4RunnerJR
Junior Member
Does anyone have experience with the RCI rack? They look to have included a solution for the leak problems and have a similar look to the Prinsu: Full Length Roof Rack |10-Present 4Runner – RCI Off Road
Pretty good price and options right now and they have me thinking!
Pretty good price and options right now and they have me thinking!
HOTBRASS365
Junior Member
I went with the westcott designs roof rack. Fit and finish are excellent and the lead time was only 2 months. Would have been sooner, but my ladder got held up in anodizing. I got the floor panel inserts for added versatility, But I haven't gotten a chance to put them in yet.
UPDATE:
I finally decided on the Prinsu and installed the full length rack. It is a very good quality rack and was easy to put together. It has been raining cats & dogs since before installing it and I have not yet used it for any particular purpose.
I was initially worried about not having applied the sealant properly but considering all the rain I would have known if there was a leak, right?
A problem I have yet to deal with is that when it gets cold the rack makes a slight vibration noise as I am driving. Also when I shut the door when it is cold I hear vibration. I have checked all the bolts/screws and they are tight. Any ideas?
Thanks
I finally decided on the Prinsu and installed the full length rack. It is a very good quality rack and was easy to put together. It has been raining cats & dogs since before installing it and I have not yet used it for any particular purpose.
I was initially worried about not having applied the sealant properly but considering all the rain I would have known if there was a leak, right?
A problem I have yet to deal with is that when it gets cold the rack makes a slight vibration noise as I am driving. Also when I shut the door when it is cold I hear vibration. I have checked all the bolts/screws and they are tight. Any ideas?
Thanks
mrblah
Senior Member
you have a loose bolt or eyebolt if there is vibration noise. easy way to figure out which one is loose, is hit each crossbar with rubber mallet, and then use your hand to feel the bars..you will feel the vibration and it stop when you touch it...then its a fastener on that particular crossbar that needs tightening. Its a good idea, to use the fake loctite they gave you in your install kit... it helps keep things snug and tight and noise free.
as for sealant, i just put a ton of it....in it and around it....6 years later no leaks...lol. You would know if you have a leak, your headliner will be darker in the area thats leaking.
Yup. Loose bolt. I had two Prinsu bolts where the cross rail was not tapped deep enough. The bolt feels tight but the flat washer can rattle. I tapped them deeper but you can double up on a washer if it doesn’t bother you.
I see what you mean: some of the bolts may be too long or the bolt holes may be slightly too short, creating a tight feel but a bit of space between the rack sides and the cross bar. Before posting this issue I had tried all the bolts and they are all tight, but this new thought not only makes sense but it is also worrisome because you can't just add an extra washer at one cross bar.
I should really take off all the cross bars, test to see if the bolts have long-enough holes, then reassemble them.
Someone above suggested tapping around to see if you can hear where it is. I’d do that first. Or just try to rotate all the flat washers with your hand. If you can spin it, it can rattle. If you find it, and you do indeed have a tap too short, I’d just add a second washer to that bolt only to fill in the gap. You should have plenty of thread engagement left.
I have done all that first time I began hearing a ringing sound when I closed the doors. This is how I know the bolts are tight: isolated which cross bar will go silent if I hold on to it, then check tightness of the bolt on that bar. Funny thing is that the colder it gets the more of these cross bars ring when I bang on the rack nearby them. When the weather gets warmer then all the ringing goes away. This is strange because even if the screws are too short or the hole too long, because of threading the thermal contraction should not be a factor.
How do you tap existing holes deeper especially if the holes are not deep enough already and you'd need to drill into it?
I have isolated the bars that will ring depending on how cold the weather is and the bolts were tight. When it gets a bit dryer out I will take the whole thing loosely apart while still on top of the vehicle and try it again. I will also check with the washers when tightened up to see if I can jiggle any of them.
Thanks
T4RandTacos
Member
Finally got my RCI full length shipped and installed last weekend. It uses the same rubber block mount set up as the Sherpas (and I'm sure others) claiming no sealant/silicone/etc needed to keep it watertight. No issues so far but no real Florida storms to report just yet. Fit and included equipment was perfect, super easy install with a single 1/4" trim to the factory weather stripping on one side.
One question for anyone running the rubber mounting blocks, how tight is too tight on install? Seems to be no end to tightening the mounting bolts with the rubber block squeezing down and outward - I'm comfortable where I've got it but don't want to stress or break the rubber more than I need to over time.
One question for anyone running the rubber mounting blocks, how tight is too tight on install? Seems to be no end to tightening the mounting bolts with the rubber block squeezing down and outward - I'm comfortable where I've got it but don't want to stress or break the rubber more than I need to over time.
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