Full lift kit for Limited 5th gen

[3s1kill]

I'm thinking of doing a full lift kit on my Limited 5th gen using either of these kits. Does anyone have any input on removing the XREAS for a full kit or experience with either of these kits?

TTHA-CK-RCC - 3" Lift W/ Bilstein 5100 Front Coilovers (FJ/4Runner/GX)

OME-4R210 - Old Man Emu Suspension (2010+ 4Runner)

I'm currently using a Daystar 2.5"/1.5" leveling kit but I wanted to go higher and larger on my tire size.

 

[wolfbbg]

How much overall lift does the Daystar 2.5/1.5 (F/R) get you -- with stock tires? I'm trying to decide between that and the ~1" (front only) leveling kit. Just can't decide.

How does it ride with the 2.5/1.5? I really like the stock ride with XREAS, although most of my driving is onroad and my off-road tastes are "mild". Still haven't convinced the CFO of the need for new wheels/tires yet either...

thanks!

 

[3s1kill]

How much overall lift does the Daystar 2.5/1.5 (F/R) get you -- with stock tires? I'm trying to decide between that and the ~1" (front only) leveling kit. Just can't decide.

How does it ride with the 2.5/1.5? I really like the stock ride with XREAS, although most of my driving is onroad and my off-road tastes are "mild". Still haven't convinced the CFO of the need for new wheels/tires yet either...

thanks!

I'm using 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeaks with SCS Ray10's. I was getting a good amount of rubbing. I'll measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender later today. I don't have any stock measurements.

It reads as good as stock or better. I'm happy with it for the price. I just want to go higher/more aggressive look.

Let me dig up a photo and I'll post it later.

 

[Bergz]

I have a 2014 Limited and looked at both of those options before going with ToyTec, mostly because they are local here in Denver. No matter what I chose, I was told the XREAS delete was the same. They simply disconnect, then un-clip the XREAS lines from the brackets in a few places, and zip tie them up and out of the way. Super easy for those that know what they're doing, and either of those kits should be fine - at least according to ToyTec... Good luck, and chop chop, we need another lifted Limited around here!

 

[3s1kill]

I have a 2014 Limited and looked at both of those options before going with ToyTec, mostly because they are local here in Denver. No matter what I chose, I was told the XREAS delete was the same. They simply disconnect, then un-clip the XREAS lines from the brackets in a few places, and zip tie them up and out of the way. Super easy for those that know what they're doing, and either of those kits should be fine - at least according to ToyTec... Good luck, and chop chop, we need another lifted Limited around here!

Got any pictures of your setup? Thanks for the tips, I was going to remove the lines also but good idea just tying them up out of the way.

 

[Ryan at Eibach]

Take a look at the Eibach kit too. Made here in California and rides fantastic.

PRO-TRUCK LIFT SYSTEM (Stage 1)

 

[Wagonhenge]

I have a 2016 limited and i ditched the XREAS for a full set of 5100's. IMHO, the on road ride got a bit softer, with more roll in the corners. However the ride on any unpaved surface of any kind improved enormously.

 

[Bergz]

Nothing recent, but I'll try to get a few new ones posted later today...

 

[llDemonll]

IMHO, the on road ride got a bit softer, with more roll in the corners.

This is expected. XREAS links the front and rear shocks together in a manner that lessens body roll. Get rid of that system and you're increasing body roll.

 

[TheDozer]

Go King all the way around on your limited. OME from experience will be much more stiff than your stock ride unless that's what you're going for??

 

[3s1kill]

Go King all the way around on your limited. OME from experience will be much more stiff than your stock ride unless that's what you're going for??

I wish I could but that's out of my budget range. I'm just debating on doing it myself or paying the shop to install it. A shop wanted $600 for labor to delete the XREAS, install and align.

 

[TheDozer]

I wish I could but that's out of my budget range. I'm just debating on doing it myself or paying the shop to install it. A shop wanted $600 for labor to delete the XREAS, install and align.

If you're good with tools and your kit has springs already installed (coil overs) then I'd say do it yourself. Removing XREAS isn't bad but it can get messy if you end up saying screw it and cutting some pieces out. Took me ~6 hours solo to take out XREAS, do fronts with new UCAs, and rears all with remote reservoirs. I'd imagine it would of taken 3-4 hours with someone to help or if I wasn't taking my time.

I do have air tools and barely used them. Goodluck with it!!!

 

[soggysailor]

When you remove the Xreas system will you have any dash lights/codes to deal with?

 

[xcalbr2]

nope

No lights etc.
Its all hydraulic. I removed my entire xreas lines and all and replaced with Eibach.
I have some wrenching experience but took my time and had it done in weekend working till I was tired of working on it.
NO oil leaks if you take xreas apart at the correct points.
I did have the springs installed on struts prior to starting the install.
X

 

[Bergz]

None at all

 

[3s1kill]

No lights etc.
Its all hydraulic. I removed my entire xreas lines and all and replaced with Eibach.
I have some wrenching experience but took my time and had it done in weekend working till I was tired of working on it.
NO oil leaks if you take xreas apart at the correct points.
I did have the springs installed on struts prior to starting the install.
X

My research shows No lights either.

Do you know which are the correct points to minimize leaking?

 

[matoolie]

See arrows. But to properly dispose of the system you should drain the oil from all the shocks and lines, and eliminate the gas pressure in the central accumulators. Disconnect lines from shocks and extend and compress shocks a couple times by hand to push all oil out. Get a drill bit and drill a hole in the end of the accumulators. Gas will escape in a moderate blast for about 1-2 seconds.

 

[3s1kill]

See arrows. But to properly dispose of the system you should drain the oil from all the shocks and lines, and eliminate the gas pressure in the central accumulators. Disconnect lines from shocks and extend and compress shocks a couple times by hand to push all oil out. Get a drill bit and drill a hole in the end of the accumulators. Gas will escape in a moderate blast for about 1-2 seconds.

I always though they were connected together on all 4 corners. It looks like they are independent on each side. Thank you for the diagram. I'll probably just get rid of it all at once instead of capping the banjo nut.

 

[MrGainzz]

See arrows. But to properly dispose of the system you should drain the oil from all the shocks and lines, and eliminate the gas pressure in the central accumulators. Disconnect lines from shocks and extend and compress shocks a couple times by hand to push all oil out. Get a drill bit and drill a hole in the end of the accumulators. Gas will escape in a moderate blast for about 1-2 seconds.

Is it possible to not lose any fluid while removing the Xreas ? I’m putting a new aftermarket kit on my LTD this month and I’d like to “keep the Xreas in good shape” so I can sell them afterwards.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[3s1kill]

Is it possible to not lose any fluid while removing the Xreas ? I’m putting a new aftermarket kit on my LTD this month and I’d like to “keep the Xreas in good shape” so I can sell them afterwards.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think so. As as you remove the banjo bolt it's going to squirt out. I found this video on youtube that shows you how to remove it but not minimize leakage.

YouTube