Full synthetic for a 129 000 mile?

[achha64]

Hi guys,

I was the service center yesterday and saw a Mobile Super hight milage 5w30, but it's a not a full or advance synthetic like the Mobil 1.

Here is the oil Mobil? USA | Car Engine Oils | Mobil Super? High Mileage 5W-30


What do you think? I'm living in a really hot area.
Can I use it or better go with a advance synthetic?

It's 3.4 l engine

Thank you

 

[TNRunner99]

What do you think? I'm living in a really hot area.
Can I use it or better go with a advance synthetic?

It depends, have you already been running a full synthetic. I wouldn't revert back if you are already using synthetic. I'm currently using Mobil 1's High Mileage 5W-30 full synthetic and have had no issues. It did create a small leak but my valve cover gaskets needed replacement anyways and now it's fine.

 

[Robb235]

I've got over 250k miles on the clock, and I've been running the Mobil 1 gold cap synthetic stuff. Supposed to withstand 12,000 miles between change intervals. No leaks or problems here.

 

[Troybylt]

I'm running amsoil 5w30 full synthetic in my engine, redline mt90 full synthetic in my trans and Royal Purple 75w90 Full Synthetic in all gear cases. No leaks so far with nearly 210k on the clock. You should be just fine. The exception being I DID have to replace the valve cover gaskets shortly after the switch. Ened up with a slight drip from the left cover but they were seeping before the switch so it was time for them anyway.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Doesn't matter if it had 350,000 miles on it.
129,000 BTW is barely broken in.

The only leaks you would get are the ones that are already there probably due to dry seals which means your engine has been abused.

I have been running full synthetic in every single vehicle I have owned since 1977 and I mean including Lawn Mowers, Pressure Washers, Outboard motors, if it has oil its running synthetic, period.
Never had a single problem with any engine for 37 years.

Personally I would only run REAL synthetic such as Amsoil 5W30 or Red Line.
The only other REAL synthetics sold here are Royal Purple and also one called "Motul" largely a motorcycle oil but I think they have at least 2 oils used for cars.
There "might" be one or two others that have a "European Formula" that might be full synthetic.




even the Mobile One is OK if you buy it at Costco for about $26/6qts but to my knowledge it is NOT 100% synthetic unless something has changed it is still a group III base stock. But I wouldn't put more than 5000 miles on it.

Edit: DOH just noticed you are not even in the US.
In that case have no idea what you have there but I would still opt for 100% true Synthetic which is either a Group IV or Group V base stock

 

[RAWTAZ]

It is always good to see the old Dino vs Synthetic Thread, 10, 298, 764, 101 edition of it of course.

When Dino oil did not have detergents in it some 30 or 40 years ago, there where many that changed to the New Mobil 1 oil and some how everyone mysteriously acquired oil leaks all over the engine.

This issue was related to the sludge that had built up in the motors and caked all over the edges of anything that was still in the engine. Places like the oil pan gasket, the valve cover gaskets, the rear seal. This sludge and crud was then dissolved from the newly develop very effective lubricant. Those seals and gaskets where now dry and cracked from not having been in contact with oil for 3 years.

Boom, the myth is born, Synthetic OIL cause leaks!!!

Dino Oil has for many years had detergents to solve this previous issue and most engines even with just Dino oil are fairly clean compared to a 1975 Chevy 350 inside.

The still exists today with Dino oil it is just not as bad. And the symptom of an oil leak after switching to Synthetic is that just a symptom of the problem of a failed gasket or seal.

The thing to know about Dino oil is that the very minute you point the oil in your vehicle and start it up the oil is starting to die, it is failing more and more with each and every heat cycle. And what I mean by dying it is chemically breaking down the molecules are being damaged and malformed and its ability to do its job is decreasing.

Synthetic on the other hand does not do this, it is not a wholly natural product. It is chemicals that form a fluid that is better at with standing both high and low temperature operation.

Synthetic oil fails after it is contaminated with gas, carbon, and NOx these form acids in the oil and are harmful to the engine. These elements are introduced into the oil over time and are pushed past the rings and valve guides in every single engine alive today new or old. It is just part of the process.

Switch to synthetic and resolve the failures in the gaskets and seals and enjoy your vehicle for much longer.

 

[Nunyabiz]

It is always good to see the old Dino vs Synthetic Thread, 10, 298, 764, 101 edition of it of course.

When Dino oil did not have detergents in it some 30 or 40 years ago, there where many that changed to the New Mobil 1 oil and some how everyone mysteriously acquired oil leaks all over the engine.

This issue was related to the sludge that had built up in the motors and caked all over the edges of anything that was still in the engine. Places like the oil pan gasket, the valve cover gaskets, the rear seal. This sludge and crud was then dissolved from the newly develop very effective lubricant. Those seals and gaskets where now dry and cracked from not having been in contact with oil for 3 years.

Boom, the myth is born, Synthetic OIL cause leaks!!!

Dino Oil has for many years had detergents to solve this previous issue and most engines even with just Dino oil are fairly clean compared to a 1975 Chevy 350 inside.

The still exists today with Dino oil it is just not as bad. And the symptom of an oil leak after switching to Synthetic is that just a symptom of the problem of a failed gasket or seal.

The thing to know about Dino oil is that the very minute you point the oil in your vehicle and start it up the oil is starting to die, it is failing more and more with each and every heat cycle. And what I mean by dying it is chemically breaking down the molecules are being damaged and malformed and its ability to do its job is decreasing.

Synthetic on the other hand does not do this, it is not a wholly natural product. It is chemicals that form a fluid that is better at with standing both high and low temperature operation.

Synthetic oil fails after it is contaminated with gas, carbon, and NOx these form acids in the oil and are harmful to the engine. These elements are introduced into the oil over time and are pushed past the rings and valve guides in every single engine alive today new or old. It is just part of the process.

Switch to synthetic and resolve the failures in the gaskets and seals and enjoy your vehicle for much longer.

Exactly correct.

 

[pluton]

I use the Group 3---what I call "fake" synthetic--- because it is better, and should last longer, than old-fashioned Group 2, but it's not as expensive as the genuine fully synthetic Group 4 and Group 5 oils, which in the USA are sold by Amsoil, Redline, and a few others.
In the USA, all the common, major 'name brand' oils like Pennzoil, Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline, Shell, etc, are labelled as "full synthetic" but are in fact Group 3, with a very few exceptions possible.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Do you think royal purple is with the extra over Mobil full syn?

 

[Nunyabiz]

Do you think royal purple is with the extra over Mobil full syn?

When it comes right down to it, really there are only two actual synthetic oils that I trust.
Amsoil and Red Line, largely because both of them are totally upfront with their formulation, what base stocks they use, what additives and so on.
No "Proprietary" bullcrap.
Any company that pulls that manure has something to hide as far as I am concerned.
If Amsoil and Red Line have zero problem listing exactly what base stocks they use and additives etc then the ONLY reason other oils do not is because they are hiding the fact they use lesser quality and call it proprietary.

Anytime any company tries to hide what they are using be it GMO's in food or chemicals in Fracking and so on it is NEVER for a good reason to help YOU the consumer it is to help the company either rip you off or get away with poisoning you.

Far as I can tell neither Royal Purple nor Mobil one are Group IV or V, they have at best a blend, probably mostly Group III, but really who TF knows?
They refuse to say from what I have been able to find.

I personally stick with Amsoil 98% of the time and yes I think it is worth the extra $

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Were a few good options for finding amsoil?

 

[Nunyabiz]

Were a few good options for finding amsoil?

Oil Depot - AMSOIL Dealer - Oklahoma City - Kansas City

Gene & Betty Pyeatt - Independent AMSOIL Dealer - Tulsa, Oklahoma

Jack Greene - Independent AMSOIL Dealer - Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

or really the best way is to just order it online and have it shipped to your door.

AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases

 

[white_n_slow]

I ran either Valvoline synthetic or Mobil1 depending on what was cheaper/available at the time. One runner had ~170k the other had around 200k. Always came out squeaky clean after 5k.

No need to break the bank on anything fancier, IMO. Nt $.02

 

[Nunyabiz]

I ran either Valvoline synthetic or Mobil1 depending on what was cheaper/available at the time. One runner had ~170k the other had around 200k. Always came out squeaky clean after 5k.

No need to break the bank on anything fancier, IMO. Nt $.02

I can buy Mobil 1 at Costco for $27 and its about $13 for a Mobil extended performance filter, comes to around $43 with tax that is the cheapest I know of.

I can buy Amsoil and Amsoil filter shipped to my door for $64.

So about $20 difference and with how much I drive I only change oil once a year unless I go on a trip.
That about $.1.75 a month difference.

Now if I drove A LOT like say 20,000 miles a year I would put in a Bypass Oil Filter which is way better than any regular spin on filter.
and driving 20,000 miles I am sure a decent amount of that would be highway
so I wouldn't have any problem taking the Amsoil out to 10,000 miles and change it twice.
Mobil 1 I would have to change 3X IMO so Amsoil would be cheaper.

So all depends.