Fumoto Drain Valve Mod

Just compare?

How about just comparing the thread length to the length on the original drain plug? Make them equal if the valve is longer. Just my two cents on this interesting thread.
 
Snesley Wipes said:
*Update*

I apologize for the late update guys. Oil change after installation. I let my oil drain at least 15 minutes, unscrewed valve and found NO leakage except for a couple of drips from the oil stuck to the threads of the oil pan, not in the oil pan. My cut + washer thickness is pretty much inline with the thickness of the pan so there were no suprises. The nipple I used came from an IV bag from a hospital. Its a plastic/rubber type material and fits tight and snug.

On a side note, regarding the oil filter debacle with the V8's, my method of changing it with no headache is: purchase cheap aluminum pie pans from local supermarket, grab about 4 or 5 paper towels and lay them flat in the pie pan, turn front wheels all the way to the left, wedge the pie pan with the paper towels between the skid plate (topside), and the engine compartment from the drivers side wheel well, then unscrew oil filter from the engine bay by reaching your arm straight down the engine bay just to the left of the battery, finagle the filter rightside up with your hand and pull it straight out. I get just a few drips coming from the filter area that fall directly into the piepan/paper towel setup. When I reinstall, I usually wipe the filter area with another paper towel to ensure no oil is stuck to the area outside of the filter/screw area. Lastly, slide the piepan/papertowel contraption out the same way you got it in. It will bend and such but any oil from the filter is absorbed in the papertowel portion so you should not have any mess.

Sorry for the "offtopic" addition...

Snes
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pie pan idea. I was thinking of using some sort of Tupperware but the flexibility of the aluminum will probably be better. Need to change the oil next weekend so I will definitely try it out.
 
With the original plug length there is no length restriction. So it could be longer or shorter and you wouldn't know. That's why I measured the thread depth. With the valve it's really clean. I just use a short length of clear tube and let that drain into a a large oil storage container.
 
For those of us that aren't OCD and are wondering about this - going by the OP's determination this mod allows a bit more than 1 more tablespoon more to drain than the non-modded version.

Yeah, stock is fine IMHO.
 
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Snesley Wipes said:
*Update*

I apologize for the late update guys. Oil change after installation. I let my oil drain at least 15 minutes, unscrewed valve and found NO leakage except for a couple of drips from the oil stuck to the threads of the oil pan, not in the oil pan. My cut + washer thickness is pretty much inline with the thickness of the pan so there were no suprises. The nipple I used came from an IV bag from a hospital. Its a plastic/rubber type material and fits tight and snug.

On a side note, regarding the oil filter debacle with the V8's, my method of changing it with no headache is: purchase cheap aluminum pie pans from local supermarket, grab about 4 or 5 paper towels and lay them flat in the pie pan, turn front wheels all the way to the left, wedge the pie pan with the paper towels between the skid plate (topside), and the engine compartment from the drivers side wheel well, then unscrew oil filter from the engine bay by reaching your arm straight down the engine bay just to the left of the battery, finagle the filter rightside up with your hand and pull it straight out. I get just a few drips coming from the filter area that fall directly into the piepan/paper towel setup. When I reinstall, I usually wipe the filter area with another paper towel to ensure no oil is stuck to the area outside of the filter/screw area. Lastly, slide the piepan/papertowel contraption out the same way you got it in. It will bend and such but any oil from the filter is absorbed in the papertowel portion so you should not have any mess.

Sorry for the "offtopic" addition...

Snes
Click to expand...


Get a Form-a-Funnel instead of a piepan:
FORM-A-FUNNEL | Oil Change Funnel | Auto Repair Oil changing kits

gp_0.jpg
 
I like the idea of cutting the threads down. Makes sense. The valve body is brass and should thread into the steel oil pan if cleaned up adequately.

Your worst nightmare is shallow oil pan threads. Just snug the valve in with a good washer and it will be fine, unless it sticks out too far, etc. it did on my Miata and I grounded it somewhere in my travels. Still useable after reforming the release tab. Pretty rugged item...
 
I think you guys are really over thinking this. All of the oil will never be drained out of the system...a little left in the pan won't hurt either.
 
JimInTN said:
I think you guys are really over thinking this. All of the oil will never be drained out of the system...a little left in the pan won't hurt either.
Click to expand...

If you were to pull the oil pans off, you'd be surprised how long oil will continue to drip out of the bottom of the engine block. It can steadily drip for days. I'd bet there's a lot more oil still adhering to the insides of the engine than there is pooling around the threads of this Fumoto valve.
 
loner said:
If you were to pull the oil pans off, you'd be surprised how long oil will continue to drip out of the bottom of the engine block. It can steadily drip for days. I'd bet there's a lot more oil still adhering to the insides of the engine than there is pooling around the threads of this Fumoto valve.
Click to expand...

Which is why the truly OCD among us (not me!) will jack up the vehicle in such a way to put the drain hole at the lowest position possible and leave it to drain for at least a half an hour or more. It would freak me out to take my beloved to a quick lube for a oil change. It barely gets emptied before they add new oil. Arghhhh!
 
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I don't trust the fumoto valve. Not only does it leave residual oil in the pan, but I'd be afraid the lever would become jarred open during vehicle operation. That's why I opted for the ValvoMax valve. The ValvoMax sits flush with the inside of the pan, and doesn't use a lever. Also it's a completely self-contained system, meaning it comes with the tubing.
 
4runnerguy1 said:
I don't trust the fumoto valve. Not only does it leave residual oil in the pan, but I'd be afraid the lever would become jarred open during vehicle operation. That's why I opted for the ValvoMax valve. The ValvoMax sits flush with the inside of the pan, and doesn't use a lever. Also it's a completely self-contained system, meaning it comes with the tubing.
Click to expand...

That's a neat take on quick draining. I'd have concerns about the cap, and the schrader valve.

But then I've been using Fumoto valves for over 200,000 mile with no real issues. Never ever had a valve open unexpectedly, although after 150K miles they sometimes need exterior cleaning so the lever operates smoothly.

YMMV.

I like that one though...
 
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I have one to install, but I'm wondering if there's a way to do it without taking the skid plate off. Didn't think about the fact a socket won't work when I bought it.
 
AE1M said:
Select "Toyota Truck" from the drop down list, then the 4Rs appear.

Bob
Click to expand...

Interesting - the ValvoMax setup is very similar to the old Fram EasyDrain or whatever it was called. I probably would have gone with this had I seen it before buying the Fumoto, but I've been very pleased with the Fumoto so far.
 
I would feel more comfortable with this if I was able to thread some sort of cap or plug in the end. I would also prefer if it was all 316SS.
 
In about 900 miles I get to try my Fumoto out for the first time. Was anyone else a little excited to try the first time?
 
I've been thinking about picking up a fumoto drain valve for my 4r, but I'm worried about using this without a skid plate..

How much does this drain stick out from the bottom of the oil pan? Would the valve stick out past the frame cut out?
 
theoutbackdream said:
I've been thinking about picking up a fumoto drain valve for my 4r, but I'm worried about using this without a skid plate..

How much does this drain stick out from the bottom of the oil pan? Would the valve stick out past the frame cut out?
Click to expand...

You don't have a skid plate?? :jaw:
 
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