Fumoto F-103N Engine Oil Drain Valve
- Thread starter TonyB66
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youwitdaface
New member
also looking to do this with my 99. Hope it goes well!
TonyB66
New member
Thanks for the input.
I've only changed the oil once, about when I got the 3rd gen 11 months ago... Is the OEM a copper crush washer, steel or what?
Works as advertised. Absolutely no issues.
My '99 is strictly road-only. My only caution with the Fumoto is that the outlet hangs lower than standard drain plug, and could snag on something if offroad, and be ripped off. If that happened, not sure whether valve would hold -- or if engine oil would be lost instantly. The skid plate would have to be pushed up into oil pan for this to happen, but I imagine it's possible.
Here's a link to thread from earlier this year in which I posted photo of Fumoto on my rig:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/254794-1-year-oil-change.html#post2969839
My '99 is strictly road-only. My only caution with the Fumoto is that the outlet hangs lower than standard drain plug, and could snag on something if offroad, and be ripped off. If that happened, not sure whether valve would hold -- or if engine oil would be lost instantly. The skid plate would have to be pushed up into oil pan for this to happen, but I imagine it's possible.
Here's a link to thread from earlier this year in which I posted photo of Fumoto on my rig:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/254794-1-year-oil-change.html#post2969839
Last edited:
Wedgy
New member
It appears that the nipple is threaded in and could be removed and thus shorten the protrusion at least a half inch, or just cut the nipple shorter if you are concerned about it. I often put some Teflon tape around my drain plugs because I don't like them to leak and don't like to over tighten them as most are attached to a stamped metal pan. I'm still thinking about getting one.
twowheel
New member
Back in my Jeep days, these were problematic. Had one instance of a skid plate getting whomped and the plug failed. Drained that straight 6 rather quickly. (Edit: Wasn't mine.) The stock plug wouldn't have had an issue other than having a skid plate smashed up against the oil pan. I'm afraid I'd have to stick w/my OEM plug.
theesotericone
New member
I've never used one so I won't be of much help there.
Why hot tap an oil pan though? Just get 5 quarts of new oil and let that thing drain. Here's why.
Whenever you try and hot tap something one things always happens. You will never get the threads seated correctly on your first try. That means you'll be on your back with your hand getting drenched in oil. That oil will run down your arm. It's not going to be fun. Once it gets to your shirt your gonna stand up, drenched in oil, and pissed. Save yourself the headache and change the oil. lol
TonyB66
New member
Oh, I've had such experiences before. I've also pulled it off quite well too...
I've got full synthetic in there with likely less than 1,000 miles on it. I'd rather not lose it. I guess I can drain it into a clean container and put it back in... Actually, I think that's what I'll do. Thanks!
Might you know what type of washer our factory drain plug uses?
theesotericone
New member
I just checked a spare I have in the garage. It's not copper, it doesn't stick to a magnet. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say aluminum.
TonyB66
New member
Searched the forum here, and found this from like nine years ago:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/456553-post10.html
theesotericone
New member
These are what I use. For 72 pennies a washer I replace them every time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OW6MD6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lindenwood
New member
Might I suggest just waiting til your next oil change?
That said, I love my fumoto valve!
That said, I love my fumoto valve!
RedSled
New member
Aaahhh, common sense for the win.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
As I was reading this thread this is what I was thinking.
TonyB66
New member
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I rarely drive the 4Runner. If I didn't need to go into the office on Wed this week or a college football game a couple weeks back, the last trip would have been to Tahoe, in Feb. Waiting for the next oil change can be quite a wait...
This, my first summer of ownership, was lost on a house remodel, but the next one will see me and the family out bouncing around in the Santa Cruz mountains and doing some camping. The odometer will be more active, but still only about 3k miles year, I envision...
The next oil change might be quite a while from now, as in over a year or two. I also have RCI skids waiting to go on, and I'd like get this plug in place first. Really curious to see what access is like through the RCI skid, and how well-protected it will hopefully be... I'm sure some here can appreciate such a desire. I finally have some time to get stuff done on my 4Runner.
Matt, thanks for the link to those oil drain gaskets. Looks like there is or was some concern about those not being factory productions. Being that this valve is supposed to be 'set it and forget it' type of application (no removal), I'll likely just pick one up at the local dealership for a couple bucks...
I rarely drive the 4Runner. If I didn't need to go into the office on Wed this week or a college football game a couple weeks back, the last trip would have been to Tahoe, in Feb. Waiting for the next oil change can be quite a wait...
This, my first summer of ownership, was lost on a house remodel, but the next one will see me and the family out bouncing around in the Santa Cruz mountains and doing some camping. The odometer will be more active, but still only about 3k miles year, I envision...
The next oil change might be quite a while from now, as in over a year or two. I also have RCI skids waiting to go on, and I'd like get this plug in place first. Really curious to see what access is like through the RCI skid, and how well-protected it will hopefully be... I'm sure some here can appreciate such a desire. I finally have some time to get stuff done on my 4Runner.
Matt, thanks for the link to those oil drain gaskets. Looks like there is or was some concern about those not being factory productions. Being that this valve is supposed to be 'set it and forget it' type of application (no removal), I'll likely just pick one up at the local dealership for a couple bucks...
I've had one on mine for a couple of years. Using the supplied gasket. No issues at all. I have Savage skids on, and access to clip the little hose on and flip the lever is a PITA at every oil change. It's not easy to do.
But removing a plug and getting oil everywhere? Or removing the skids each time? 20 times worse. Maybe more.
I honestly wouldn't even bother trying to save the oil. Just wait until you have the skids off, then change the oil and put the Fumoto valve on instead of replacing the plug.
But removing a plug and getting oil everywhere? Or removing the skids each time? 20 times worse. Maybe more.
I honestly wouldn't even bother trying to save the oil. Just wait until you have the skids off, then change the oil and put the Fumoto valve on instead of replacing the plug.
TonyB66
New member
John, thanks.
I was contemplating the use of the included gasket but when I went to go look at it I noticed that part of greenish material was missing and stuck to the valve's surface. Not good. I'll use an OEM gasket/washer...
BamaDrewski
New member
For those who have this on their 3rd gen, is the included gasket sufficient at preventing leaks?
I'm looking to do a hot-swap of sorts, losing some oil in the process, and if a washer of some type is desirable, I'd like to have that ready...
Thanks.
I put mine in back in January of 2015 and I used the gasket that came with it. As it is a "install once" kind of thing, I never changed the gasket. It has never leaked and works great (other than the slow draining).
With respect to slow draining, I usually take an empty Mobil1, four quart container and leave it under the drain point overnight. (Put a pan under the container for overflow).
