Fuse help!

Sgtausy

Sgtausy

New member
Ok, I have searched the old threads but not good with electrical so I should start with my case and see if someone knows what is going on.

I bought LED lights that are OEM style replacements from Advanced Auto last night. Today I went to plug them in and they still did not work, the 2 Map lights and middle dome. I replaced the fuse in the interior fuse box and still no good. replaced the one under the hood also and still nothing. Then I get back in and the "ding ding ding......." that goes on when you have the keys in the ignition isn't going off. I turn the truck on with no problem, the clock is not on, aftermarket radio has no power. The hazard lights work and the defroster turns on.

I replaced the 2 fuses again and also the 30 main in the interior fuse box. Still the same result.

WHAT DID I SCREW UP!!!!!!

Thanks for any help.
 
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I blew that fuse once... but I cannot remember which fuse it was I had to replace.

Pull all the fuses one by one and inspect, it might have blown a circuit that wasn't obvious.
 
Sgtausy said:
Ok, I have searched the old threads but not good with electrical so I should start with my case and see if someone knows what is going on.

I bought LED lights that are OEM style replacements from Advanced Auto last night. Today I went to plug them in and they still did not work, the 2 Map lights and middle dome. I replaced the fuse in the interior fuse box and still no good. replaced the one under the hood also and still nothing. Then I get back in and the "ding ding ding......." that goes on when you have the keys in the ignition isn't going off. I turn the truck on with no problem, the clock is not on, aftermarket radio has no power. The hazard lights work and the defroster turns on.

I replaced the 2 fuses again and also the 30 main in the interior fuse box. Still the same result.

WHAT DID I SCREW UP!!!!!!

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

For Pete's sake, you could have named the fuses you replaced. It sounds like your DOME fuse, but it could also be the ACC fuse.You should also check that the new fuses you put in did not immediately blow. You may have effed something up and left it effed up. No amount of fuse changing will fix that. Try taking out those LEDs and another new fuse in the DOME slot, if that is what you did.
 
Once you confirm all your fuses are good you may want to try flipping the bulbs around... LED's are typically polarized. I would also go back to the old confirmed good bulbs to simplify things until your fuse situation is diagnosed and fixed.
 
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Agreed, first thing I'd do is pull out those LEDs and see if the gremlins go away without a bulb in place.

If they do, then it's the LED bulb. If they don't, then something is fried (we can diagnose it after we know which one it is).
 
Did you happen to bend the terminals the dome lights slide into? The tab shaped ones. You may have grounded the positive terminal.
 
TheDurk said:
For Pete's sake, you could have named the fuses you replaced. It sounds like your DOME fuse, but it could also be the ACC fuse.You should also check that the new fuses you put in did not immediately blow. You may have effed something up and left it effed up. No amount of fuse changing will fix that. Try taking out those LEDs and another new fuse in the DOME slot, if that is what you did.
Click to expand...

Engine bay fuses replaced was the Dome fuse, interior fuses replaced were ACC and POWER 30 AMP. I have no power locks, clock, or radio. I have removed all the LED lights and replaced them all again and still no change.
 
Sgtausy said:
Engine bay fuses replaced was the Dome fuse, interior fuses replaced were ACC and POWER 30 AMP. I have no power locks, clock, or radio. I have removed all the LED lights and replaced them all again and still no change.
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Just door locks, but windows and sunroof still work? You need to get a test lamp (or meter, but I prefer the lamp for this) and verify power at both ends of these fuses (with key on for ACC and POWER).

If they are indeed good, it looks as if you have fried something inside your integration relay. That won't be fun.
 
Sgtausy said:
Engine bay fuses replaced was the Dome fuse, interior fuses replaced were ACC and POWER 30 AMP. I have no power locks, clock, or radio. I have removed all the LED lights and replaced them all again and still no change.
Click to expand...

I'm suspecting the ACC fuse. The Cigarette lighter, Clock, Radio, Power mirrors, and the Integration Relay (hence Door Locks) are all on that fuse.

Do your lighter or power mirrors work? If not, I bet you are not getting 12V at the ACC fuse, and if so, then it's time to work your way back towards the source. Check for 12V at ACC fuse, then report back.
 
4Runner4Leon said:
I'm suspecting the ACC fuse. The Cigarette lighter, Clock, Radio, Power mirrors, and the Integration Relay (hence Door Locks) are all on that fuse.

Do your lighter or power mirrors work? If not, I bet you are not getting 12V at the ACC fuse, and if so, then it's time to work your way back towards the source. Check for 12V at ACC fuse, then report back.
Click to expand...

Door Locks have no connection to the ACC fuse. They get their power from the 30A POWER fuse. Also, the ACC fuse powers down with key off, while the locks do not so clearly ACC power is not needed for door lock operation.

The Integration Relay is powered by the 7.5A ECU-B fuse, in the aux. fuse box, which has not been mentioned. It's worth checking, but I would expect more things not to work.

The mirrors do in fact, get all their power from the ACC but OP has not said they don't work. If they don't, that would for sure change things.

See '96 EWD below:
 

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TheDurk said:
Just door locks, but windows and sunroof still work? You need to get a test lamp (or meter, but I prefer the lamp for this) and verify power at both ends of these fuses (with key on for ACC and POWER).

If they are indeed good, it looks as if you have fried something inside your integration relay. That won't be fun.
Click to expand...

You might be on to something on the integration relay. I had a 91 Pickup (basically a 2nd gen 4Runner with a pickup bed) and the fuse box blew, so a shop replaced it but didn't put in the integration relay. The buzzer, lights, and others things stopped working so I had to pull one from a junk yard and they all worked again.

It affects a whole lot more than one would think.
 
TheDurk said:
Door Locks have no connection to the ACC fuse. They get their power from the 30A POWER fuse. Also, the ACC fuse powers down with key off, while the locks do not so clearly ACC power is not needed for door lock operation.

The Integration Relay is powered by the 7.5A ECU-B fuse, in the aux. fuse box, which has not been mentioned. It's worth checking, but I would expect more things not to work.

The mirrors do in fact, get all their power from the ACC but OP has not said they don't work. If they don't, that would for sure change things.

See '96 EWD below:
Click to expand...

I may be wrong, as I am fairly new to 4Runners, but I believe that the integration relay is powered by more than one fuse (although I don't see the 7.5A ECU-B fuse having any connection to the integration relay in the EWD below):



I do see the 15A ACC relay powering some parts of the integration relay, that's why I asked the OP to check that fuse, since the other items he mentioned were on the ACC fuse circuit as well.

My understanding is also that the radio should work even with a fried integration relay, yet the OP's radio is not working.

Easy enough for him to check if the power mirrors or cigarette lighter are working :).
 
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4Runner4Leon said:
I may be wrong, as I am fairly new to 4Runners, but I believe that the integration relay is powered by more than one fuse (although I don't see the 7.5A ECU-B fuse having any connection to the integration relay in the EWD below):



I do see the 15A ACC relay powering some parts of the integration relay, that's why I asked the OP to check that fuse, since the other items he mentioned were on the ACC fuse circuit as well.

My understanding is also that the radio should work even with a fried integration relay, yet the OP's radio is not working.

Easy enough for him to check if the power mirrors or cigarette lighter are working :).
Click to expand...

I stand by my statement that the ACC fuse cannot kill the door locks. I agree he should check the cigar lighter, as that is a perfect proxy for the ACC fuse as that is the only fuse involved there. The Radio and Clock require both ACC and DOME to work so them being out is ambiguous as to cause. Neither depends on the Integration Relay. The Integration Relay is a black box and its internal workings are a mystery. My point was, IF ALL THE FUSES ARE INDEED GOOD, that's where you go next for the door locks.

Is that a '96 Power Source diagram you posted, because it does not jive with the '96 diagram I posted above? That said, I admit ECU-B was a shot in the dark but it does control many of these functions on MY rig, ('99), which does not have an integration relay.

In any case, ALL these fuses need to be reliably checked in place. Just swapping them as he does is not good enough in the case they just keep blowing. Until a test lamp or meter is applied to this, it will be much harder to solve.
 
TheDurk said:
I stand by my statement that the ACC fuse cannot kill the door locks. I agree he should check the cigar lighter, as that is a perfect proxy for the ACC fuse as that is the only fuse involved there. The Radio and Clock require both ACC and DOME to work so them being out is ambiguous as to cause. Neither depends on the Integration Relay. The Integration Relay is a black box and its internal workings are a mystery. My point was, IF ALL THE FUSES ARE INDEED GOOD, that's where you go next for the door locks.

Is that a '96 Power Source diagram you posted, because it does not jive with the '96 diagram I posted above? That said, I admit ECU-B was a shot in the dark but it does control many of these functions on MY rig, ('99), which does not have an integration relay.

In any case, ALL these fuses need to be reliably checked in place. Just swapping them as he does is not good enough in the case they just keep blowing. Until a test lamp or meter is applied to this, it will be much harder to solve.
Click to expand...

The power source diagram I posted is indeed from the '96 EWD you posted above.

And I agree that it's hard to figure out which fuse powers which part of the integration relay - all I know is that the ECU fuse does not connect to the integration relay, and the ACC fuse does (though it's not at all clear that it connects to the door lock system, I totally agree with you on that point!).

Sgtausy definitely needs to do some more diagnostics and report back.
 
TheDurk said:
I stand by my statement that the ACC fuse cannot kill the door locks. I agree he should check the cigar lighter, as that is a perfect proxy for the ACC fuse as that is the only fuse involved there. The Radio and Clock require both ACC and DOME to work so them being out is ambiguous as to cause. Neither depends on the Integration Relay. The Integration Relay is a black box and its internal workings are a mystery. My point was, IF ALL THE FUSES ARE INDEED GOOD, that's where you go next for the door locks.

Is that a '96 Power Source diagram you posted, because it does not jive with the '96 diagram I posted above? That said, I admit ECU-B was a shot in the dark but it does control many of these functions on MY rig, ('99), which does not have an integration relay.

In any case, ALL these fuses need to be reliably checked in place. Just swapping them as he does is not good enough in the case they just keep blowing. Until a test lamp or meter is applied to this, it will be much harder to solve.
Click to expand...

Power side mirrors and Windows work, the ect and rear window also work in center console. The lights for the A/C button and rear defrost still work. I did replace the 7.5 AMP and still no change

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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So I drove around for a while and replaced the 15 amp Dome fuse under the hood. I now have all of my electronics back and operational. With a voltage tester I was able to see that I am not getting any power to my dome lights even with a good fuse. Is there a relay between the dome lights and the fuse under the hood?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
LittleCaesar said:
You need one of these to eliminate much of the guesswork:
Lisle Corporation
Click to expand...

Those are geat for their intended use--PCB work--but for fuse testing and presence of 12V+ in general in auto work, the traditional test light with a standard bulb is the better choice. Sometimes a crappy connection pr partially burnt fuse will pass enough 12V+ to show 12V+ on a meter or light a low-current bulb, but a high current bulb will show a fail. I use a real brake light bulb and socket for this work which draws even more than a regular test light.
 
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