Fuse tap help... Please!

[flyrv9]

Pull an existing fuse from the block. Take a meter (set to DC) and measure each side of the fuse socket to ground. One side will read 12V and the other will read 0V. If both read 0V then you have found a switched circuit and will need the ignition on to get power. Also, the fuse tap provides only 12V to where ever you are going to use it. You will still need a ground path for the circuit to function. Make sure this is a good connection.

 

[eddiebx]

You are welcome anytime pal. Just let me know and we can work out the details.



Sure. Take a fuse out of the fusebox. The pins that the fuse plug into are now visible. One side supplies power (source) the other side sends power to something(feed).

If you plug the tap into the fusebox and the source side happens to be the side of the minitap that has the output wire, you effectively bypass the fuse. Power needs to travel through the fuse to the output wire in the tap.

Make sense?

I think maybe you and nglayton might be thinking about two different types of taps?

It's been a long time since I've messed with one and I don't have this particular tap in front of me to verify with a meter, but I think it doesn't allow for bypassing the fuse like some other taps?

If installed backwards I think the worst case is it will be hooking up the two fuses in series as opposed to parallel. (ie. +12v > original fuse > factory accessory > added fuse > added accessory)

This would probably not be detrimental I guess (since you'd be protecting a fuse with another fuse inline) , but maybe better to put it in correct as per manufacturer's instructions

So Vegas, any updates? Do we need to send a fire truck over? :flame:

 

[Antman]

I think maybe you and nglayton might be thinking about two different types of taps?

It's been a long time since I've messed with one and I don't have this particular tap in front of me to verify with a meter, but I think it doesn't allow for bypassing the fuse like some other taps?

If installed backwards I think the worst case is it will be hooking up the two fuses in series as opposed to parallel. (ie. +12v > original fuse > factory accessory > added fuse > added accessory)

This would probably not be detrimental I guess (since you'd be protecting a fuse with another fuse inline) , but maybe better to put it in correct as per manufacturer's instructions

So Vegas, any updates? Do we need to send a fire truck over? :flame:

You know- I was looking at that pic too, and it may not be an issue with that tap. I think you're correct!

Somewhere at sometime I remember reading that (about bypassing the fuse) in the instructions that came with one of my Minitaps (mine had actual instructions). Maybe I'm just getting old?!

 

[eddiebx]

You know I got to thinking...maybe the one that risks bypassing is that kind that vegas was originally using (the thin metal blade contraption)? It seems to just basically clamp around one of the fuse legs? This could easily bypass the fuse if you are not careful.

So assuming you just tapped it with that metal blade and not throw on another inline fuse, smokey the bear would not approve.

 

[flyrv9]

The fuse block is providing switched and unswitched power. The fuse amp rating is dependent on the current draw of the circuit which also decides what wire size is used. The 10A fuse tap wire pigtail is probably 16 ga wire. It can handle 10A but not much more. Sure you can get away with a little more; but not on a constant draw basis. That is why the fuse tap works and doesn't overload the spot it shares with the other fuse. Each circuits current draw will be what that circuit needs out of the total available to the switched or unswitched side. Should it somehow be overloaded the fuse will blow. What you don't want to do is replace that 10A fuse with a bigger one. The wire won't handle the increased current draw. Even if the fuse doesn't blow; the wire will run hot and in essence become the fuse!

 

[westwind77]

And after you guys learn all about fuses please move on to the next classroom where today's lesson will be HOW TO RESIZE YOUR MOTHER F'ING PIX!!! :rockthrow:

I actually spit out the water I happened to be drinking when I read that, LOL!

The pix don't phase me on my 27" screen :eyebrows:

I guess size DOES matter...my 24" just can't handle it.....until I pull it across to the other 24"

And I learned useful info from this thread as well!

 

[nglayton]

Much better

I think maybe you and nglayton might be thinking about two different types of taps?
It's been a long time since I've messed with one and I don't have this particular tap in front of me to verify with a meter, but I think it doesn't allow for bypassing the fuse like some other taps?
If installed backwards I think the worst case is it will be hooking up the two fuses in series as opposed to parallel. (ie. +12v > original fuse > factory accessory > added fuse > added accessory)

Phew...I'm glad someone else saw it the same way I did. I was beginning to worry that I was losing it.

I also think installed backwards you are putting more of a load on the original fuse since you are running both the factory accessory and the added accessory through it.
Basically installed backwards you are tapping an already fused circuit (right at the fuse) and run the risk of putting that circuit over it's rated fuse.

Installed correctly each fuse has it's intended load running off of it. (not counting of course what ever else you have added father down stream from the fuse box, IE cup holder lights, USB ports, etc. :eyebrows

Maybe I'm just getting old?!

No way!!

 

[Vegas]

Arrrrrrgggggghhhh..... I thought I had it installed the correct way, keep in mine first time using a voltmeter (had to get a quick lesson from janoforhire) but after read a few more post I need to double check I wish the fuse panel had a plus and minus side for dummies like me... Below is a pic of the way I have it installed. But I am in London for the week so I had to put the build on hold... My GF said I can't play with you guys right now

 

[4Funnr]

Did you ever figure out your mini-fuse add-on tap?

 

[lawless97]

Hijacking this thread so I don't start a brand new one. I am running a dashcam using this same fuse tap. I'm using the Timetec Hard Wiring 12V Power Cord Kit. Is it okay for me to tap into KDSS since I only have a stock SR5? I assume that's ignition only and I didn't know what other fuses I could use, so I was trying to find one that was 10A to make sure it matched the fuse tap voltage I'm using. Thanks for any help.

 

[cheeser]

If there is an available empty fuse spot, couldn't an individual simply use one of those?

 

[lawless97]

I have several empty fuse slots, just didn't know if I could use those.

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[HerT4R]

I have several empty fuse slots, just didn't know if I could use those.

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okay. i recommend gettting a 12V hot tester (or a voltmeter if you are feeling fancy), verifying the place you want to plug into is doing what you want to do, then wiring it up without issue.

this will alleviate all issues.

 

[cheeser]

okay. i recommend gettting a 12V hot tester (or a voltmeter if you are feeling fancy), verifying the place you want to plug into is doing what you want to do, then wiring it up without issue.

this will alleviate all issues.

I have done that a few weeks ago and found an unused switch circuit in the fuse box under the dash...just under the "towing bkup" circuit.

 

[kevwolford]

I have done that a few weeks ago and found an unused switch circuit in the fuse box under the dash...just under the "towing bkup" circuit.

View attachment 203542

Hi, I know this is an ancient thread but does anybody know what is the current capacity of that fuse box location? I am planning on putting in rear seat heaters to keep the kid and friends happy so i need a 20A supply.

Also, has anyone done a 2nd REAR seat heater install on a 5th gen?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Tom_with_a_Dream]

You know- I was looking at that pic too, and it may not be an issue with that tap. I think you're correct!

Somewhere at sometime I remember reading that (about bypassing the fuse) in the instructions that came with one of my Minitaps (mine had actual instructions). Maybe I'm just getting old?!

I think you were correct, at least in the sense that you are using the "wrong" (as in, opposite) pins.

Since flipping the tap-a-fuse will put the red wire (leading to new item) on the opposite female slot inside the OEM fuse block. Considering that both will have power assuming the (OEM) fuse is not blown there would be no serious impact. The red wire can ONLY get power thru the new fuse from the male tab you drew, regardless of which female slot it is plugged into.

If anything, installing the tap "backwards" provides added safety in that it now double-fused (ignoring fuse ratings as installed).

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[mr_souc]

I have done that a few weeks ago and found an unused switch circuit in the fuse box under the dash...just under the "towing bkup" circuit.

View attachment 203542

Curious to see if the empty fuse location below 10A ever worked out for a fuse tap? I'm looking to do add in a 12v line for a aftermarket BU camera and need powah.

 

[jhguth]

the hot side in the fuse panel should be common so it should work, just put a meter on it to check

 

[Bugser]

Curious to see if the empty fuse location below 10A ever worked out for a fuse tap? I'm looking to do add in a 12v line for a aftermarket BU camera and need powah.

I just did a tap a fuse in that location on Saturday and it works fine. Switched on with the ignition. Go for it!


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[MeefZah]

Spot #1 (which is blank) is +12VDC all times, 10 amps

Spot #2 is +12VDC controlled by headlight switch, 7.5 amps

Spot #3 is +12VDC with ignition, 7.5 amps

Instruction for the add a circuit are pretty obvious and are discussed by others in the last 5 years of posts in this thread, but I thought the above notes and below pic might be of assistance to others looking for a certain fuse output.