Gecko's 2019 Limited 4x4 Black/Redwood Thread (All Dynos In)

After the baseline dyno was done, I had the Borla Touring exhaust installed. Quick, easy, and I didn't need any aftermarket hanger - stock worked just fine.

I was originally going to do dyno runs as follows:

1. Base
2. Borla
3. Borla + TRD CAI

... but the Borla tubing is the same exact size as stock, so I don't think it's worth a dyno on it's own. With that said, is it worthless? No. I actually really like it and would buy it again, even if there is 0 performance improvement. It sounds great... though I will warn you, for someone who is conservative with exhausts, during the break in period, you'll think, "what did I just do...?" Trust me, it gets better and settles down very nicely. Fitment is so nice and looks very OEM:

0OXTa2.jpg


Of course, it's really hard to capture exhaust notes on camera, but here you go:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/t5pSrot_VG8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Out of curiosity, right before I got my baseline dyno, I started running premium gas. Of course, it takes 4-5 tanks before you'll see any difference - if there is one - but I've been on two road trips this month and am 15+ tanks of premium (91) into my experiment at this point. So...

My commute is 90% city, and I drive fairly aggressively.

Stock (combined) with BFG KO2s on 87 octane : 14.5 MPG
Stock (combined) with Yoko Geolandar G015 A/Ts on 87 octane: 15.5 MPG
Stock (combined) with Yoko Geolandar on 91 octane: 16.8 MPG

Stock highway with Yoko Geolandar G015 A/TS on 87 octane: 18.6 MPG
Stock highway with Yoko Geolandar G015 on 91 octane: 19.4 MPG

So, there is some real, measured improvement to MPG when you run premium. I've been keeping notes over the last 4 weeks, and the results above are represented to the best of my ability.

The butt-o-meter says there is a little extra oomph at the top end on premium, most notably for passing power.
 
Thank you for being so thorough in your research. I also have a TRD intake and cat-back exhaust. Looking forward to the results of your next dyno run with the intake to see what your results are. Also, have you thought about adding an Underdog Racing MAF calibrator to your list of engine mods? That would make for a very interesting third dyno pull!
 
Is it possible to disable AWD on a limited? I'm curious what the difference is in the drivetrain loss between AWD and two wheel drive.

For fun I looked up TheWraith's stock dyno run, which was done with just the rear wheels on a different model dyno, atmospheric conditions, etc. His T4R netted 220 HP and 236 ft-lb.
 
Is it possible to disable AWD on a limited? I'm curious what the difference is in the drivetrain loss between AWD and two wheel drive.

For fun I looked up TheWraith's stock dyno run, which was done with just the rear wheels on a different model dyno, atmospheric conditions, etc. His T4R netted 220 HP and 236 ft-lb.

No, can't disconnect.
 
So here is the final chart of all three runs combined:

79818026_1295693643947087_1757476973728235520_o.jpg


Yellow = stock
Green = TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust
Blue = TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust + URD MAF Calibrator

If you were to adjust the numbers from the second two runs for temperature based on a +35% boost due to temps, you'd have roughly:

Stock: 191.3 hp and 217.9 lb-ft of torque
TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust: 203.2hp and 230.6 lb-ft of torque (+11.9 hp, +12.7 lb-ft of torque)
TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust + URD MAF Calibrator: 204 hp and 231 lb-ft of torque (+12.7 hp, +13.1 lb-ft of torque)

The piping on the Borla is the same as stock, so I do not assume the exhaust made any impact on the runs and credit the TRD intake.

Some here have said that they feel a big difference with the URD MAF Calibrator. I did not, and am not surprised to see such negligible gains with its use. For what it costs, I do not recommend this mod.

Final runs and performance updated on page 1.
 
Third dyno run complete:


TRD Cold Air Intake, Borla Touring Exhaust, URD MAF Calibrator
48F
50% humidity
93 octane

Smoothed results (all runs averaged together):

Max Horsepower: 211.1hp @ 5,300 RPM
Max Torque: 238.4 lb-ft @ 4,150 RPM

Compared to stock, that is:

+ 19.8 hp
+ 20.5 lb-ft of torque

Compared to just the TRD Intake and Borla Touring Exhaust, that is:

+1.5 hp
+ 1 lb-ft of torque

NOTES YOU NEED TO READ:

1) Remember that these numbers are smoothed/averaged. There was one run that was as high as 215hp and 242 lb-ft, but most were 210-212hp and 237-239 lb-ft.

2) Take a look at the temps. They make a difference. The day I did my first run, it was 77F and 70% humidity. The day I did this run was also the same run that I did with the TRD Intake and Borla Exhaust: 48F and 50% humidity. I asked the tech who helped me how much of a difference he thought the temps made, and his assumption was 30-40% boost.

If you factor that in, the real increase in performance with the TRD intake and URD MAF Calibrator (assuming a 35% boost due to temps) would be:

+ 12.87 hp
+ 13.3 lb-ft of torque

So you'd have roughly 204 hp and 231 lb-ft of torque if the temps were the same on my third run.

3) After doing the second run with the TRD Intake and Borla exhaust, I disconnected the battery, installed the URD MAF Calibrator, drained any residual charge left in the system, let it sit for 20 minutes, reconnected the battery, did a few "warm up runs" and then did a few final runs.

Video - I'll post the chart in my next post:

Cool to see the different curves together and the nice power bump from the intake and exhaust.

So, if I understand you correctly, did the shop perform all the dyno runs without a correction factor (for temperature and humidity differences), like the SAE or some other standard? That would save you from having to guess at a percentage (35%) adjustment.
 
Cool to see the different curves together and the nice power bump from the intake and exhaust.

So, if I understand you correctly, did the shop perform all the dyno runs without a correction factor (for temperature and humidity differences), like the SAE or some other standard? That would save you from having to guess at a percentage (35%) adjustment.

Correct. They did not include a correction factor, which I suppose would have been helpful here. Doh.
 
If the run files were saved, perhaps the shop can easily edit them.

Many years ago, the first run I did on a car lacked correction. When I realized it, I went back and was able to get a new print out. Was bummed though, that the baseline numbers were lower with SAE applied. Ha ha.
 
I am surprised to read that you only received a 1hp increase with the addition of the URD MAF Calibrator. [MENTION=750]Gadget[/MENTION] should the gains come right after install, or does it take the ECU some time to adjust? Any tips for us? I was really hoping for a 10 to 15 hp increase from this mod.
 
I am surprised to read that you only received a 1hp increase with the addition of the URD MAF Calibrator. [MENTION=750]Gadget[/MENTION] should the gains come right after install, or does it take the ECU some time to adjust? Any tips for us? I was really hoping for a 10 to 15 hp increase from this mod.

With a catback and CAI this guy got 8hp with the V8. Not quite apples to apples with this thread but close. And keep in mind these are only peak numbers. Numbers below the peak could see larger gains than that.

Stage 1 Transformation (Exhaust, Chip, Intake)
 
So here is the final chart of all three runs combined:

79818026_1295693643947087_1757476973728235520_o.jpg


Yellow = stock
Green = TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust
Blue = TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust + URD MAF Calibrator

If you were to adjust the numbers from the second two runs for temperature based on a +35% boost due to temps, you'd have roughly:

Stock: 191.3 hp and 217.9 lb-ft of torque
TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust: 203.2hp and 230.6 lb-ft of torque (+11.9 hp, +12.7 lb-ft of torque)
TRD Intake + Borla Touring Exhaust + URD MAF Calibrator: 204 hp and 231 lb-ft of torque (+12.7 hp, +13.1 lb-ft of torque)

The piping on the Borla is the same as stock, so I do not assume the exhaust made any impact on the runs and credit the TRD intake.

Some here have said that they feel a big difference with the URD MAF Calibrator. I did not, and am not surprised to see such negligible gains with its use. For what it costs, I do not recommend this mod.

This was outsanding information been wondering if anyone had gone this extent to determine results glad I found your post here
 
I am surprised to read that you only received a 1hp increase with the addition of the URD MAF Calibrator. [MENTION=750]Gadget[/MENTION] should the gains come right after install, or does it take the ECU some time to adjust? Any tips for us? I was really hoping for a 10 to 15 hp increase from this mod.

Sorry I'm seeing this late.

We did a few runs, and disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to reset everything after the run with the CAI alone. The results were all the same.

My .02 is that the MAF calibrator does not do much and I probably would not spend $300 on it if done over again. On the highway or at higher speeds when flooring it, I feel like there's a little more juice at the very upper end of the powerband with the MAF calibrator, but that's about it.
 
Sorry I'm seeing this late.



We did a few runs, and disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to reset everything after the run with the CAI alone. The results were all the same.



My .02 is that the MAF calibrator does not do much and I probably would not spend $300 on it if done over again. On the highway or at higher speeds when flooring it, I feel like there's a little more juice at the very upper end of the powerband with the MAF calibrator, but that's about it.
Thank you for your post. I was debating this mod also but if a dyno doesn't claim anything then I'm not spending the money on it .

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
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Out of curiosity, right before I got my baseline dyno, I started running premium gas. Of course, it takes 4-5 tanks before you'll see any difference - if there is one - but I've been on two road trips this month and am 15+ tanks of premium (91) into my experiment at this point. So...

My commute is 90% city, and I drive fairly aggressively.

Stock (combined) with BFG KO2s on 87 octane : 14.5 MPG
Stock (combined) with Yoko Geolandar G015 A/Ts on 87 octane: 15.5 MPG
Stock (combined) with Yoko Geolandar on 91 octane: 16.8 MPG

Stock highway with Yoko Geolandar G015 A/TS on 87 octane: 18.6 MPG
Stock highway with Yoko Geolandar G015 on 91 octane: 19.4 MPG

So, there is some real, measured improvement to MPG when you run premium. I've been keeping notes over the last 4 weeks, and the results above are represented to the best of my ability.

The butt-o-meter says there is a little extra oomph at the top end on premium, most notably for passing power.

Kudos to you for taking the time to log this data and share it with us.

I'd be curious to see this run again as I feel like this might be counter-intuitive.



Premise: the engine is tuned for 87-octane
Octane rating is directly related to its ability to resist detonation (pre-ignition or pinging).

So, unless the engine management system is intricate enough to advance timing to compensate for higher octane, I'd like to see the test ran again.
During your driving sessions, did you take note of the climate and elevation changes or were your routes more or less the same?

Based on your results, it would imply that running fuel with an even higher octane rating would produce more power. In normal boosted applications, this is ONLY true when coupled with increasing PSI because the fuel can now sustain increased pressures. However, simply running race gas without any other changes to compensate for the fuel would have non-beneficial results.




BTW - I'm merely striking up a conversation to get some heads thinking.
 
I received a bunch of PMs that the image links in this thread were broken - I apologize. Did not realize that Facebook randomly kills image links, so I had to create a new photo hosting account and fix it.
 
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