Generator/Alternator removal assistance required

[Kmvreter]

As the title says, for a 4th Gen V6.

OK, so what's the trick?

I'm right at the end of this and 3 seconds away from lifting it out but it won't come out. I've removed all the connections and the 2 bolts holding it in place as per the attached pages from the FSM. The top bolt location is free but it's pivoting around the bottom location. I've tried pulling it every which way including straight forward and rocking it around. No go.

Any help would be appreciated.

I'll do a write-up of the reason behind all this after I'm done but I have to get it off and to a rebuild shop first.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

They get clamped together pretty tightly, I often find myself having to wiggle it pretty hard while pulling on it to get them out. A pry bar/long screwdriver prying against it while you wiggle it around helps quite a bit.

 

[Kmvreter]

Thanks BWInc.
Is there an actual pivot point in the shape of the bottom bolt hole location against the timing cover (not sure if I'm asking this right)? It's loose but not pulling out. I'll get the long bar out.

 

[Kmvreter]

Got it off.
I can answer my own question: The bottom is a through bolt on a pivot. Pics to follow when I put it back together.

 

[Kmvreter]

Here's some more details and hints on the replacement process, with pics.

Followed the directions referenced on page 19-26 from the FSM (attached above):

Step 5(a)(1) - This bracket ("stay") is bolted into the side of the battery support.
Step 5(a)(2)&(3) - It is easier to get at the wiring connector and terminal cap & nut if you remove the metal "flap" attached to the upright support above the alternator, as in the pic below.

Pic 1 - remove this bolt & flap

 

[Kmvreter]

Here are some pics of the rebuilt alternator (1 day turn-around; C$120 +tax) and the lower mounting point (red circle) just above the A/C compressor. The 2 prongs on the bottom of the alt. "hinge" on this point. That is what was giving me the original grief above.

 

[Kmvreter]

Pic 4 is a close-up of the connections.

FSM Page 19-26:
Step 5(a)(2) - disconnect the (green plastic) wiring connector by pressing in or depressing the tab on the side that is facing the rear of the truck (red arrow) and then pulling/wiggling the connector up and out.
Step 5(b) - the green and blue arrows point at 10mm sockets on the 2 bolts holding the wire harness clamp bracket. It was easier to get at the rear one (blue arrow) by going through the wheel well with an extension.

Once the alternator is free to remove I found it easier to flip it around, back to front in place, before trying to lift it up past an existing A/C line.

 

[Kmvreter]

Not sure why the alternator died. I'm just over 300,000 Km (186,000 mi).

The first obvious indication of a problem was when the battery light came on. I pulled over and checked under the hood. The belt was intact and the battery indicator eye was blue (charged) so I decided to try to get home. I got 2 episodes of what I assume are low voltage warning beeps 10 minutes later just as I was getting home.

Got out the meter and found 11.5 volts with the engine running (should be 13.2 or higher.) The original Panasonic battery (which I maintain) was showing just over that at 11.8 volts with the engine off. Checked all the battery cells and they were OK (above min) for fluid level. Charged up the battery and it's holding 12.4 volts or better just like before. I don't have any signs of slow or long cranking like I had in the past. See here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/39626-06-battery.html

The rebuild shop warned me that a bad battery is usually the culprit that causes the alt to overwork and burn out. You can feel when an alt is overworked by being super hot to the touch on the backside. I'll monitor this and the Panasonic to avoid any future issues.

In hindsight, the first not-so-obvious sign of an issue started more than 2 months ago. I have my doors set to lock when you reach a certain minimum (low) speed. It's not something I keep track of so I found it strange that the locks didn't activate on one occasion, then it was sporadic and lately it was very intermittent. I thought to look into it when things warm up (what a miserable winter!) Now it makes sense that the actuators need a certain minimum voltage to work. Keep an eye on your door locks as an early warning sign of voltage issues.

Also, took this opportunity to replace the original V-belt. No signs of wear or cracking on it. If only everything was that reliable.

 

[Kmvreter]

Just an update:
The rebuilt alternator was getting warm but I was unsure whether this was normal engine bay heat due to the location or the alt overworking so I decided to change out the battery. It was still holding 12.3V when disconnected but that is not 100%. Testing showed it was at less than 50% of rated cranking amps. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...till-oem-panasonic-battery-6.html#post1702678 Hate to see the original Panasonic go but it had an excellent run and I don't want to risk another alt failure.

 

[j-dub]

Thanks for these details Kmvreter, they came in handy for me today. My alternator died today and after I had it unbolted it was pivoting on the lower bolt location but not coming out, I thought maybe there was another bolt or bracket down there. After a bit of prying and wiggling out she came. :thumb:

 

[Sabaka]

I am trying to solve an electrical problem on my 2007 4Runner with V6. After cleaning corroded battery terminals, recharging the dead battery, and having the autoparts store load test the battery with the battery passing the test, I tested the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine off and with it running. I got 12.5V when off, and 13.5V when on. I assumed the problem was the corroded terminals and drove it for a couple days until I was surprised by a dead battery. I saw a deal on an alternator for cyber Monday and decided to replace mine. When I started the project I discovered that this sensor behind the oil filter is leaking. I didn't see this when I was working with the battery. Anyone know what this sensor is? It looks like I need a deep socket that I don't currently own to remove it.

 

[4Reak Show]

Guess would be oil pressure sensor. Looks like it taps right into that oil passage in the casting. Probably a 22 or 24 mm. Replaced a few on Corolla/RAV4 4 cylinders so I'm thinking its a design flaw since they likely use similar sensors if not the same sensors to save money on production.
Good luck

 

[Sabaka]

Thanks. Yes, it is oil pressure sending unit. It took 24 mm to remove. The replacement from Advance was 22 mm and cost $17. Replaced alternator next. Oil from the leaking sending unit everywhere. This sending unit is above alternator and the alternator was coated pretty well with oil, including inside of it as far as I could see (I did't disassemble it). Voltage across battery with replacement alternator and engine running was 13.9 V, so improvement over old alternator. I'm pretty sure that the oil leak from the oil pressure sending unit is was caused my alternator to fail.

 

[Sabaka]

In replacing the alternator I didn't have too much problem getting it out once I had the bolts out. It was tight but I moved it up and down, and side to side and it didn't take too much effort. The wiring harness that runs in front of the alternator is constantly in the way, as well as the fan and hose to the front. I had a little trouble putting the serpentine belt back on as it twisted and came off a couple of pulleys, but it was not overly challenging. Here's a question: how often does one need to change the serpentine belt?

I think I read 60k miles is what is recommended for the serpentine belt. I just bought my 4Runner in Sept and it has 146K. I'm guessing it is the original belt. Should I change it?

What other things should I be checking given I don't have the full history of the vehicle?

 

[Jaybob7]

Hey all,

Just wanted to stop by and say THANK YOU for this write up. Thanks to you guys, I was able to replace my alternator successfully.

I ended up removing the fan and the fan shroud and removed the alternator from the top.

Here's my story:

The battery light came on in the truck Sat night. I thought, ok. I just replaced the battery about two months ago. So maybe it's the alternator. I'll take it to the parts store early in the morning to have it tested.

Had it checked and it was toasted. The parts guy says they don't have the alternator in stock and it would need to be delivered. Should be there around 2:00 pm. I told him that I would just pick it up, since I didn't want to wait 4 hours.

On my way there, the battery ran out of juice and truck shut off. I managed to roll into a jiffy lube off the side of the road. One of the techs gave me a quick jump and told me to haul ass because I had less than 10 minutes on the battery.

Heading up to the parts store, charge only lasted about five minutes. The truck powered off again. This time I wasn't able to get out of traffic. At least I was able to pull into the right lane safely.

Waited 45 minutes for a tow and the tow driver was gracious enough to drive me to the auto parts store to get the alternator. I also bought a battery charger for $60.00 since the battery was drained.

Get home, and start working in disassembly. At this time, it is about 5 degrees outside. The truck is a 2004 from Florida, so most of the bolts are rusted and since it was cold, I snapped off a couple of the retaining clips.

I finally get the alternator out in freezing weather, and find out that there is a manufacture defect with the alternator. The bolt won't thread onto the alternator. I also took the small screws that fasten the wire harness bracket to the alternator and threaded them on the new alt, so I wouldn't loose them. I had to catch an Uber to the auto parts store, return the alternator and go to another store to get a different alternator brand. Ended up getting a Dura Last from Auto Zone. Last night I realized that I left the wire harness bracket bolts on the new alternator that I returned. DOH!

Now today, I took my lunch time to install it. Along with a new serpentine belt. It took me about two hours to install the alternator.

And once again. THANK YOU. You guys just saved me a boat-load of cash. I love this forum.

 

[Paul.v]

Just did my 2006

Thanks guys for the info. I got Alt at Napa for $220. Took me 1 1/2 hrs.
removed :
1) engine cover
2) overflow bottle
3) fan shroud & fan together
4) upper rad hose at thermostat- left bottom connected & wedged at top of rad
5) thermostat housing
6) oil filter housing(pictured above by Sabaka)
7) serpentine belt
8) idler pulley in front of Alt
9) 12v & plug from Alt
10) 2 10mm wire harness bolts on side of Alt (only 1 went back in )

I only lost about 1 cup of coolant & 1/2 of eng oil- all gaskets are rubber compression type &didn't need to be replaced.

1 suggestion, run your alternator bolts in/out the new alt will make installation easier. as well as large screwdriver to help alignment.

Thanks everyone for the info above- really let me know which way to go about changing this hidden alternator!

Paul

 

[2004.4Runner]

Help! Stipped Alternator Bolt Hole

I have a 2004 4Runner, V6. I pulled the old alternator out, went fairly well considering the limited access from above to the harness bracket and everything else. I didn't even have to take anything but the battery out.

So I put in the new alternator, loosely put the 2 bolts in to hold it while I bolted the harness back on and plugged everything in. Started tightening the top bolt down and it went easy about halfway and then all of sudden had tons of resistance. Looking at the bolt, it looks as though it went in crooked somehow, has a slight angle. Removed it, and the threads on the very end of bolt appear slightly flattened, and putting a mirror on the hole looks like I might have stripped the threads out.

Looking for advice here. Do I put a 7/16 tap in the hole, widen it out a tad and get a new bolt? Do I run a matching metric tap size in the hole to try and fix the threads and then use the bolt again? Anyone know what size threads are on that bolt?

 

[AuSeeker]

I have a 2004 4Runner, V6. I pulled the old alternator out, went fairly well considering the limited access from above to the harness bracket and everything else. I didn't even have to take anything but the battery out.

So I put in the new alternator, loosely put the 2 bolts in to hold it while I bolted the harness back on and plugged everything in. Started tightening the top bolt down and it went easy about halfway and then all of sudden had tons of resistance. Looking at the bolt, it looks as though it went in crooked somehow, has a slight angle. Removed it, and the threads on the very end of bolt appear slightly flattened, and putting a mirror on the hole looks like I might have stripped the threads out.

Looking for advice here. Do I put a 7/16 tap in the hole, widen it out a tad and get a new bolt? Do I run a matching metric tap size in the hole to try and fix the threads and then use the bolt again? Anyone know what size threads are on that bolt?

I would try a tap the current size and a new bolt first (DO NOT REUSE THE OLD BOLT, as it's already messed up and you will have problems again!), if that doesn't work out then go up a size, BUT to do that you would need to use the proper size drill bit for the bigger tap first before re-tapping the hole to the bigger size, because the hole has to be drilled to the correct size before using the bigger tap or the tap will break off in the hole and of course use a new bolt.

Hopefully you know how to properly use a tap, if not educate yourself first before trying or again you could break off the tap in the hole!!

 

[dschan]

Finished alternator swap on 2006 V6

Thanks Kmvreter for the write-up, and everyone else for the tips!

Finished replacing the original alternator on my 2006 V6 with 104k miles. Also replaced the original serpentine belt as well. Surprised both lasted this long.

I started replacing the alternator before reading this thread, and got stuck at the same spot. Couldn't easily pull the old alternator out after removing the bolts and harnesses. I think what happens is the lower nut on the alternator (highlighted in red) pinches against the engine mount when the bolt is torqued, making a snug fit that is difficult to pull out. After reading this post, I was able to muscle it out without fear of breaking something. I noticed the nut on the new alternator was more recessed compared to the old, and the new alternator slid into place quite easily. As I tightened the bolt, I could feel the bolt give on a few rotations, suggesting the nut was sliding inward against the mount.