Thanks for the comments.
And the rust is hiding underneath 6 cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and 4 cans of Extreme Chassis Black and 4 cans of Internal Frame Spray.
GMV's Build Thread
- Thread starter gmv4k
- Start date
Thanks for the comments.
And the rust is hiding underneath 6 cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and 4 cans of Extreme Chassis Black and 4 cans of Internal Frame Spray.
XM Radio
Finally found a deal on an XM radio and jumped on it.
$20.00 shipped on Amazon
SiriusXM Satellite Radio XEZ1V1 Onyx EZ Satellite Radio with Vehicle Kit - Black
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=4LRJUT7LXZBBGMVJ
Currently they activated all radios for free, until Dec 2, 2014 I think. I just plugged it in and it started working. I put the antenna on the dash and used my cassette adapter. I need to figure out the FM modulator so I can get rid of some wires.
Don't Miss Out - SiriusXM Radio
But my reception is terrible, maybe I should read the manual, but the signal drops constantly. Every time I pass a tree or anything over head it drops. It was definitely better than nothing, where we live, but not that fun. But for $20 and nothing else for a few days it was worth it. Just need to figure out where to put the antenna I guess.
Finally found a deal on an XM radio and jumped on it.
$20.00 shipped on Amazon
SiriusXM Satellite Radio XEZ1V1 Onyx EZ Satellite Radio with Vehicle Kit - Black
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=4LRJUT7LXZBBGMVJ
Currently they activated all radios for free, until Dec 2, 2014 I think. I just plugged it in and it started working. I put the antenna on the dash and used my cassette adapter. I need to figure out the FM modulator so I can get rid of some wires.
Don't Miss Out - SiriusXM Radio
But my reception is terrible, maybe I should read the manual, but the signal drops constantly. Every time I pass a tree or anything over head it drops. It was definitely better than nothing, where we live, but not that fun. But for $20 and nothing else for a few days it was worth it. Just need to figure out where to put the antenna I guess.
P0306 Error
Mileage: 155955
MPG: 13
Date: December 23, 2014
A few days ago I get the dreaded P0306 error. Truck is stumbling and gets really rough anything below 2000 RPMs. If I'm accelerating hard the CHECK ENGINE light starts flashing but then stays solid otherwise. After doing some research on here, I'm convinced it's the fuel injector. But I had to drive almost 150 miles to get back home with the P0306 error. By the time I get home my once full tank is almost empty. Later I calculated 13 mpg vs the usual 18 mpg. I'm thinking the injector must be pushing out some serious gas. I get out of the truck and I can smell gas. I'm hoping I didn't do any long term damage, cats? Now I'm hoping it's just a spark plug or wire. But I immediately order a fuel injector off ebay ($43) anyway, which won't come until tomorrow. So today I was hoping to fix my problem by just changing the spark plugs and wires. I was only going to change cylinder number 6, P030X, where X equals the cylinder number, bc it was raining but I got lucky and rain subsided so I did all 6 plugs. Fortunately I had spark plugs and wires already, I was putting it off bc I was scared of doing it. But in reality it was pretty easy.
I read up on these
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59008-how-installing-3rd-gen-spark-plugs.html
and
4Runners.org - Changing Your Spark Plugs
---
I had these plugs
Denso (3194) K16TR11 Traditional Spark Plug
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=YV4ZSVHIBPGWDFGO
Just saw it says on amazon it doesn't fit my vehicle.
and these wire
NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set
Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
I also went out to NAPA and got a 12" extension and universal joint. I ended up not needing the universal joint. You'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket.
-----------
I started with cylinder number 6, driver side towards the rear of the vehicle. I read that this would be a pain, but it was pretty easy. Just pulled the wire and slide the 12" extension coupled with another extension I had, probably like a 4" and unscrew the plug. There's a rubber hose in the way but it's pretty flexible.
This was my number 6 wire. It looked scorched.
This was my number 6 plug. Quad pronged, Bosch Platiums.
Here are all my plugs. They're all pretty black.
I re-installed using the same spark plug socket, it held the plug pretty well. I hand threaded the plug and torqued it down to 13 ft/lbs. I put some anti-seize on the plug and some die-electric grease at the top/lip of the boot on the spark plug wire. I did one plug/wire at a time so I couldn't mess up the order.
The other side (passenger side) I removed the flexible tubing (air silencer thing), I think I could have left the airbox in, but I took it out, I was hoping to clean the MAF but didn't have time. Pretty easy. Taking out the coils, I left the eletrical connectors in bc I always end up breaking those things. Everything went fine without taking off the connectors. The rubber part in the coil is pretty flexible.
Overall changing plugs and wires is pretty easy. I put it off bc I was scared to do it, but it's easy. Took me 1.5 hours in the rain, going fairly slowly. It fixed my P0306 problem immediately. Drives much better. It got rid of the bogging feeling I had and the truck is much peppier. I'll conclude that my spark wire failed, unfortunately I have no idea when they were last changed. At least I do know they were changed since they had the quad sparks in it.
Maybe this will increase my MPG more. I also threw in a bottle of
Red Line (60103) Complete SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 Ounce
I'll update after I put some miles on it.
Mileage: 155955
MPG: 13
Date: December 23, 2014
A few days ago I get the dreaded P0306 error. Truck is stumbling and gets really rough anything below 2000 RPMs. If I'm accelerating hard the CHECK ENGINE light starts flashing but then stays solid otherwise. After doing some research on here, I'm convinced it's the fuel injector. But I had to drive almost 150 miles to get back home with the P0306 error. By the time I get home my once full tank is almost empty. Later I calculated 13 mpg vs the usual 18 mpg. I'm thinking the injector must be pushing out some serious gas. I get out of the truck and I can smell gas. I'm hoping I didn't do any long term damage, cats? Now I'm hoping it's just a spark plug or wire. But I immediately order a fuel injector off ebay ($43) anyway, which won't come until tomorrow. So today I was hoping to fix my problem by just changing the spark plugs and wires. I was only going to change cylinder number 6, P030X, where X equals the cylinder number, bc it was raining but I got lucky and rain subsided so I did all 6 plugs. Fortunately I had spark plugs and wires already, I was putting it off bc I was scared of doing it. But in reality it was pretty easy.
I read up on these
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59008-how-installing-3rd-gen-spark-plugs.html
and
4Runners.org - Changing Your Spark Plugs
---
I had these plugs
Denso (3194) K16TR11 Traditional Spark Plug
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...s2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=YV4ZSVHIBPGWDFGO
Just saw it says on amazon it doesn't fit my vehicle.
and these wire
NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set
Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
I also went out to NAPA and got a 12" extension and universal joint. I ended up not needing the universal joint. You'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket.
-----------
I started with cylinder number 6, driver side towards the rear of the vehicle. I read that this would be a pain, but it was pretty easy. Just pulled the wire and slide the 12" extension coupled with another extension I had, probably like a 4" and unscrew the plug. There's a rubber hose in the way but it's pretty flexible.
This was my number 6 wire. It looked scorched.
This was my number 6 plug. Quad pronged, Bosch Platiums.
Here are all my plugs. They're all pretty black.
I re-installed using the same spark plug socket, it held the plug pretty well. I hand threaded the plug and torqued it down to 13 ft/lbs. I put some anti-seize on the plug and some die-electric grease at the top/lip of the boot on the spark plug wire. I did one plug/wire at a time so I couldn't mess up the order.
The other side (passenger side) I removed the flexible tubing (air silencer thing), I think I could have left the airbox in, but I took it out, I was hoping to clean the MAF but didn't have time. Pretty easy. Taking out the coils, I left the eletrical connectors in bc I always end up breaking those things. Everything went fine without taking off the connectors. The rubber part in the coil is pretty flexible.
Overall changing plugs and wires is pretty easy. I put it off bc I was scared to do it, but it's easy. Took me 1.5 hours in the rain, going fairly slowly. It fixed my P0306 problem immediately. Drives much better. It got rid of the bogging feeling I had and the truck is much peppier. I'll conclude that my spark wire failed, unfortunately I have no idea when they were last changed. At least I do know they were changed since they had the quad sparks in it.
Maybe this will increase my MPG more. I also threw in a bottle of
Red Line (60103) Complete SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 Ounce
I'll update after I put some miles on it.
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I was getting around 14.5 mpg mixed city/highway recently and that's being optimistic (really like 14.3). I blamed it on the super cold weather we were getting on the East Coast, fortunately gas prices were at an all time low so it didn't really bother me. But I thought after sparks/wire and fuel cleaner I'd be doing a lot better.
So I had my mechanic change my fuel filter (I tried twice but could get it to budge and then I was afraid it was going to leak) while doing an oil change. It's too cold to change my own oil in the snow. He charged me .5 hours ($35) for the fuel filter. He said it took him a lot longer than he thought it would, apparently it was pretty stuck.
At 156K changing the fuel filter had a huge impact. Throttle response improved greatly. Rev's better. I definitely experienced a huge improvement. Mpg back up in the 18's, but now I find myself hammering it at the lights and on on-ramps. With sways and more power the 4runner is a joy to drive. My ultra guage now reads 17.4mpg.
I wonder what a supercharger feels like?
So I had my mechanic change my fuel filter (I tried twice but could get it to budge and then I was afraid it was going to leak) while doing an oil change. It's too cold to change my own oil in the snow. He charged me .5 hours ($35) for the fuel filter. He said it took him a lot longer than he thought it would, apparently it was pretty stuck.
At 156K changing the fuel filter had a huge impact. Throttle response improved greatly. Rev's better. I definitely experienced a huge improvement. Mpg back up in the 18's, but now I find myself hammering it at the lights and on on-ramps. With sways and more power the 4runner is a joy to drive. My ultra guage now reads 17.4mpg.
I wonder what a supercharger feels like?
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Fishwerks
New member
Fixing the classic rusted passenger rear control arm
I have the typically east coast rusted rear control arm and the opportunity came up where my buddy could help with some welding. I was stressing out about this for awhile after reading various threads and seeing pictures. I almost wanted to sell it at one point but after numerous garages jacked up the truck on the arm I didn't feel like I was in serious danger but I wanted to get it taken of, obviously. I received a few quotes ranging from $400-$600, but I prefered my friend since we both have a vested interest
The yellow is Eastwood rust encapsulator in yellow, so I can see it when I paint it black.
My buddy had a plasma cutter, first time I've ever seen this contraption, and he just cut out all the rust in minutes
This thing is awesome.
This is the piece he cut. It looked like the Eastwood Internal Framing Coating I applied was holding up.
Looks like it rusted from the inside out and down. The bottom portion is completely gone.
My friend replaced the bottom channel.
Here's a shot of the steel he used 1/8 compared to the original frame. (It's just a small strip leftover from his cut at the top, might be hard to make out)
All done.
I feel much better now. I read a few threads that scared the crap out of me. Going into this, I thought the rust was going to be waay worse. But it wasn't too bad. My friend was telling me some scary stories about rusted frames he's dealt with. It's nice to have friends, but I think I would have been ok to trust my mechanic with it too.
I have the typically east coast rusted rear control arm and the opportunity came up where my buddy could help with some welding. I was stressing out about this for awhile after reading various threads and seeing pictures. I almost wanted to sell it at one point but after numerous garages jacked up the truck on the arm I didn't feel like I was in serious danger but I wanted to get it taken of, obviously. I received a few quotes ranging from $400-$600, but I prefered my friend since we both have a vested interest
The yellow is Eastwood rust encapsulator in yellow, so I can see it when I paint it black.
My buddy had a plasma cutter, first time I've ever seen this contraption, and he just cut out all the rust in minutes
This thing is awesome.
This is the piece he cut. It looked like the Eastwood Internal Framing Coating I applied was holding up.
Looks like it rusted from the inside out and down. The bottom portion is completely gone.
My friend replaced the bottom channel.
Here's a shot of the steel he used 1/8 compared to the original frame. (It's just a small strip leftover from his cut at the top, might be hard to make out)
All done.
I feel much better now. I read a few threads that scared the crap out of me. Going into this, I thought the rust was going to be waay worse. But it wasn't too bad. My friend was telling me some scary stories about rusted frames he's dealt with. It's nice to have friends, but I think I would have been ok to trust my mechanic with it too.
Exhaust leak
(MPG at current time, back down to 14.7mpg. It's been cold out so that's what I was blaming the poor mileage on, plus I've been driving faster then before. But my friend noticed an exhaust leak and asked if I was getting bad gas mileage. Interesting, we'll see.)
While I had my friends help, and the exhaust out to work on the frame, we fixed an exhaust leak. At first we thought it was because I only had 1 nut on the forward o2 sensor, so he fixed that. My friend hit it with PB Blaster, heated up the base of the snapped bolt for a few minutes and then just used channel locks to unscrew it. Pretty easy for him, I'm sure that wouldn't work for me. Then we got a new stud and screwed it in (double nuts at the top to screw it down)
But the problem turned out to be this....
Not sure if you can see it, but there's a hole in the catalytic converter. If you look at the bottom of this pic you can see he filled in the hole by welding it.
We also changed out all the gear oil - rear, transfer and front with Lucas 75w-90 synthetic. I think I'm finally done with all the maintenance stuff... almost, I need new rear lower control arm bars. But then it's superchargin' time if I can find one.
And he's a parting shot of the truck getting cleaned before I headed to my buddies shop. I thought the sign was fitting. "Salt eats cars".
(MPG at current time, back down to 14.7mpg. It's been cold out so that's what I was blaming the poor mileage on, plus I've been driving faster then before. But my friend noticed an exhaust leak and asked if I was getting bad gas mileage. Interesting, we'll see.)
While I had my friends help, and the exhaust out to work on the frame, we fixed an exhaust leak. At first we thought it was because I only had 1 nut on the forward o2 sensor, so he fixed that. My friend hit it with PB Blaster, heated up the base of the snapped bolt for a few minutes and then just used channel locks to unscrew it. Pretty easy for him, I'm sure that wouldn't work for me. Then we got a new stud and screwed it in (double nuts at the top to screw it down)
But the problem turned out to be this....
Not sure if you can see it, but there's a hole in the catalytic converter. If you look at the bottom of this pic you can see he filled in the hole by welding it.
We also changed out all the gear oil - rear, transfer and front with Lucas 75w-90 synthetic. I think I'm finally done with all the maintenance stuff... almost, I need new rear lower control arm bars. But then it's superchargin' time if I can find one.
And he's a parting shot of the truck getting cleaned before I headed to my buddies shop. I thought the sign was fitting. "Salt eats cars".
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Updates
After some miles I noticed a few things.
I used to have this chirping noise, you could tell it was a metal to metal rubbing noise from some where but I could never figure out where it was coming from. After welding the rear arm bracket it seems like the sound has disappeared.
Also I was hoping my truck would magically be silent after changing the rear diff fluid. But no change there. I think next on my list is doing some sound proofing. I'm running Cooper ATP's and there's a bit of a hum to them.
After some miles I noticed a few things.
I used to have this chirping noise, you could tell it was a metal to metal rubbing noise from some where but I could never figure out where it was coming from. After welding the rear arm bracket it seems like the sound has disappeared.
Also I was hoping my truck would magically be silent after changing the rear diff fluid. But no change there. I think next on my list is doing some sound proofing. I'm running Cooper ATP's and there's a bit of a hum to them.
Other notes
Some other things I remembered my friend doing that might help others...
One, the filler plug for the rear diff. I tried to loosen it but it didn't feel like it was going to go. So my friend put the socket on (23mm, surprising a size he didn't he) and used a BFH and wacked it a few times, and it slowly started to come loose. I tried once before to remove the bolt but it felt like I was going to break the bolt.
Second, the front diff drain plug (hex key) was stuck too. This time he took a flame to it and heated up the bottom side of the diff for a few minutes (about 3-4 minutes, I never heated anything that long which could be my problem) and then the plug slowly came out.
Conclusion, when dealing with rust always use shock or heat before trying to remove any bolts, and always have pb blaster (I use krano) on hand.
Some other things I remembered my friend doing that might help others...
One, the filler plug for the rear diff. I tried to loosen it but it didn't feel like it was going to go. So my friend put the socket on (23mm, surprising a size he didn't he) and used a BFH and wacked it a few times, and it slowly started to come loose. I tried once before to remove the bolt but it felt like I was going to break the bolt.
Second, the front diff drain plug (hex key) was stuck too. This time he took a flame to it and heated up the bottom side of the diff for a few minutes (about 3-4 minutes, I never heated anything that long which could be my problem) and then the plug slowly came out.
Conclusion, when dealing with rust always use shock or heat before trying to remove any bolts, and always have pb blaster (I use krano) on hand.
Alternator Died
157,864 miles
Here’s my long winded story…. Few weeks previous my wife borrowed the truck and overnight the battery died. She had to get it jump started. I didn’t think much of it, maybe she left the lights on or a door open, plus it was really cold out that night. OK, no big deal I thought. The next week I drive the truck back towards our house 100 miles away. During this time I’m thinking how I love driving the 4runner, blah blah blah. 20 miles into the ride, it’s dark out now, the tachometer goes to zero and the abs light come on.. Crap, now what. I look at my ultra guage and the volts are reading below 9. I immediately pull over and turn off the lights. I google up an auto-parts stores immediately on my phone and lucky found one that’s 5 miles away, but it’s 8:30pm and they close at 9pm. Fortunately I make it there before they close, very fortunate. After analysing the situation I decided to buy 2 batteries from Auto Zone and try to make it home. I realized that I would never make 80 miles with the headlights on, so I stayed at a friends place 10 miles away and was hoping to make the drive the next day. Next day drove on the first battery and almost made back to my home about 60 miles. I drove until the battery only had about 7 volts left. At about 9.5 volts the tachometer stopped working and the abs light came on. I recently read this… trying hitting the alternator with a hammer or something and that might get the brushes to work.
The truck was starting to do weird things and I didn’t want to risk damaging anything electrical. I debated driving until it died, I was about 10 miles away from home, but figured it wasn’t worth the risk. So I pulled over and installed the second battery I purchased. I picked up a used alternator for $50 and read this thread to prepare for the replacement.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143711-diy-replacing-3rd-gen-alternator.html
Replacing the alternator took me 2 hours because I didn’t realize the lower bracket was adjustable. I could do it now easily in 20 minutes. I plan on replacing the brush assembly P/N 27370-35060 on my old alternator and seeing if that fixes it. Not sure how long my replacement alternator is going to last, the 4runner it came out of had 250K+ miles on it, but this time I’ll keep an eye on my ultra-gauge (you’ll need at least 13.5+ volts to start charging your battery) If replacing the brushes fixes my alternator I would put replacing them on the list of preventative maintenance. My situation could have been 10 times worse if I was stranded. For $15 and 20 minutes, it seems like a no-brainer.
Now that I’ve got 2 new batteries I think I’m going to do a dual battery install. I’ve been researching that, but haven’t found a good solution yet. I’m going to try to fit 2 batteries in the original spot and move the coolant reservoir. But I still need to decide on an isolator. I want something easy and that will allow me to self-jump start. I was considering doing the BIG 3 upgrade and/or high-amp alternator, but I don’t really seem to need it at the moment. I might upgrade my negative battery wire to the chassis.
157,864 miles
Here’s my long winded story…. Few weeks previous my wife borrowed the truck and overnight the battery died. She had to get it jump started. I didn’t think much of it, maybe she left the lights on or a door open, plus it was really cold out that night. OK, no big deal I thought. The next week I drive the truck back towards our house 100 miles away. During this time I’m thinking how I love driving the 4runner, blah blah blah. 20 miles into the ride, it’s dark out now, the tachometer goes to zero and the abs light come on.. Crap, now what. I look at my ultra guage and the volts are reading below 9. I immediately pull over and turn off the lights. I google up an auto-parts stores immediately on my phone and lucky found one that’s 5 miles away, but it’s 8:30pm and they close at 9pm. Fortunately I make it there before they close, very fortunate. After analysing the situation I decided to buy 2 batteries from Auto Zone and try to make it home. I realized that I would never make 80 miles with the headlights on, so I stayed at a friends place 10 miles away and was hoping to make the drive the next day. Next day drove on the first battery and almost made back to my home about 60 miles. I drove until the battery only had about 7 volts left. At about 9.5 volts the tachometer stopped working and the abs light came on. I recently read this… trying hitting the alternator with a hammer or something and that might get the brushes to work.
The truck was starting to do weird things and I didn’t want to risk damaging anything electrical. I debated driving until it died, I was about 10 miles away from home, but figured it wasn’t worth the risk. So I pulled over and installed the second battery I purchased. I picked up a used alternator for $50 and read this thread to prepare for the replacement.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143711-diy-replacing-3rd-gen-alternator.html
Replacing the alternator took me 2 hours because I didn’t realize the lower bracket was adjustable. I could do it now easily in 20 minutes. I plan on replacing the brush assembly P/N 27370-35060 on my old alternator and seeing if that fixes it. Not sure how long my replacement alternator is going to last, the 4runner it came out of had 250K+ miles on it, but this time I’ll keep an eye on my ultra-gauge (you’ll need at least 13.5+ volts to start charging your battery) If replacing the brushes fixes my alternator I would put replacing them on the list of preventative maintenance. My situation could have been 10 times worse if I was stranded. For $15 and 20 minutes, it seems like a no-brainer.
Now that I’ve got 2 new batteries I think I’m going to do a dual battery install. I’ve been researching that, but haven’t found a good solution yet. I’m going to try to fit 2 batteries in the original spot and move the coolant reservoir. But I still need to decide on an isolator. I want something easy and that will allow me to self-jump start. I was considering doing the BIG 3 upgrade and/or high-amp alternator, but I don’t really seem to need it at the moment. I might upgrade my negative battery wire to the chassis.
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Sound deadening
I kamikazed this project. I didn’t read that much in preparation and just went at it. I budgeted 1 hour to cover the rear cargo area, including wheel wells. The Cooper ATPs are whining pretty loud and was really hoping doing the rear cargo area would help.
I bought 36 sq ft of 80ml from ebay user:soundcontrolproducts for $53. I had 3 sheets left over after finishing the back. Took about 1.5 hours. I just removed the obvious screws, 2 in the back and 2 holding the cargo cover, on each side, and then pulled the panels out and then the carpet.
Sadly to say from the drivers seat there was absolutely no change with sound deadening installed. Can't decide if I should do more or get different stuff.
I kamikazed this project. I didn’t read that much in preparation and just went at it. I budgeted 1 hour to cover the rear cargo area, including wheel wells. The Cooper ATPs are whining pretty loud and was really hoping doing the rear cargo area would help.
I bought 36 sq ft of 80ml from ebay user:soundcontrolproducts for $53. I had 3 sheets left over after finishing the back. Took about 1.5 hours. I just removed the obvious screws, 2 in the back and 2 holding the cargo cover, on each side, and then pulled the panels out and then the carpet.
Sadly to say from the drivers seat there was absolutely no change with sound deadening installed. Can't decide if I should do more or get different stuff.
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Front shackle holder
Finally got a shackle on the Front D Ring Mounts (from [MENTION=24804]legokcen[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/26221-front-d-ring-mounts.html)
If I actually had to apply any pressure to these things they are going to definitely hit / damage my plastic valence. I’m not sure how loose / giving the valences are but the shackles definitely contact. Fortunately I have a spare valence if I ever get a chance to rescue anybody or get rescued.
FYI.
Finally got a shackle on the Front D Ring Mounts (from [MENTION=24804]legokcen[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/26221-front-d-ring-mounts.html)
If I actually had to apply any pressure to these things they are going to definitely hit / damage my plastic valence. I’m not sure how loose / giving the valences are but the shackles definitely contact. Fortunately I have a spare valence if I ever get a chance to rescue anybody or get rescued.
FYI.
Mv-50
Got an air compressor off Amazon MV-50.($56.97)
I was pretty much sold on BFAD’s write up
But I wasn’t sure where to put it. I wasn’t quite ready to hardwire it. I thought about putting it under the hood, maybe after I figure out my dual battery setup.
It comes with a nice bag.
Nice size
Fits in the rear passenger cargo area.
I still had room for some tools, my hitch shackle/receiver, a quart of tranny oil and a recovery strap.
Got an air compressor off Amazon MV-50.($56.97)
I was pretty much sold on BFAD’s write up
But I wasn’t sure where to put it. I wasn’t quite ready to hardwire it. I thought about putting it under the hood, maybe after I figure out my dual battery setup.
It comes with a nice bag.
Nice size
Fits in the rear passenger cargo area.
I still had room for some tools, my hitch shackle/receiver, a quart of tranny oil and a recovery strap.
Iggee Seat Covers
I’ve been trying to find a solution to my ripped seats. I really wanted to keep it looking stock without spending too much money. I was tempted by ordering just the driver seat bottom leathers for $210 from ebay user upholsteryguys (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-1997-1...tan-/121593582951?hash=item1c4f8ad567&vxp=mtr) I ordered a sample and it was almost an exact match. But it would have cost me over $400 to change out a single front seat.
After reading reviews from [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] with his Iggee Seat Covers i decided to take the plunge.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ynthetic-leather-seat-covers-installed-2.html
Got them off ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-4RUN...998|Model:4Runner&hash=item19c1786e99&vxp=mtr
for $179.00 shipped. They arrived in under 2 weeks.
Install was easy, I finished in under an hour for both front seats.
You place the clips on the straps and connect them front/back and side to side.
You cut a small hole to align the origin clip for the headrest and push it through.
With a back pocket.
It’s a little brighter than the stock but I like it so far. Maybe if I get it dirty it’ll look the same.
The video from iggee helped.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FQqGYTIDkPk
Feels good so far. I wished I had done it earlier to save my seats from ripping more. Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] for the review.
I’ve been trying to find a solution to my ripped seats. I really wanted to keep it looking stock without spending too much money. I was tempted by ordering just the driver seat bottom leathers for $210 from ebay user upholsteryguys (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-1997-1...tan-/121593582951?hash=item1c4f8ad567&vxp=mtr) I ordered a sample and it was almost an exact match. But it would have cost me over $400 to change out a single front seat.
After reading reviews from [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] with his Iggee Seat Covers i decided to take the plunge.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ynthetic-leather-seat-covers-installed-2.html
Got them off ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-4RUN...998|Model:4Runner&hash=item19c1786e99&vxp=mtr
for $179.00 shipped. They arrived in under 2 weeks.
Install was easy, I finished in under an hour for both front seats.
You place the clips on the straps and connect them front/back and side to side.
You cut a small hole to align the origin clip for the headrest and push it through.
With a back pocket.
It’s a little brighter than the stock but I like it so far. Maybe if I get it dirty it’ll look the same.
The video from iggee helped.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FQqGYTIDkPk
Feels good so far. I wished I had done it earlier to save my seats from ripping more. Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] for the review.
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Esky Car Reverse Backup Radar System
I was in the process of looking for something that would help me parallel park. I looked at reverse cameras but that would require a new headunit. I was trying to find a small monitor I could place over my rear view mirror with a back cam, but no luck. But in the process I found this item, Esky Car Reverse Backup Radar System.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191479860403?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Oddly enough [MENTION=111369]s20004runner[/MENTION] posted this at about the same time.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/193511-reverse-back-up-sensor-install-easy-cheap-mod.html
I figured for $20 I’d give it a shot. But i didn’t want to drill holes into anything, so I picked up a trailer hitch plug/cap for $4. The kit came with a drill bit that worked just fine on plastic.
Install took about 30 minutes. I didn’t have to drill any holes for this on the truck, I ran the wires in pre-existing holes. I pulled the driver side rear panel, a few screws to remove the cargo cover brackets. I tapped into the reverse light wire. With the truck off, I turned the key to accessories and put it into reverse. I unplugged the light clip and used a multimeter to find the hot wire.
Sorry it’s been a few weeks but if I remember correctly it was the bottom right wire. I can double check if anybody needs it. I mounted the computer unit in an area behind the panel and used the supplied double sided tap.
The unit I got had the option to turn the sound off. I wanted something that I could see while I was looking back. I tried to use the double sided tape but that wasn’t strong enough. So I found some galvanized pipe strap (looks something like http://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Pi...F8&qid=1434998636&sr=8-1&keywords=metal+strap) and made a bracket for it. The holes in the strap were perfect and it fit into the push clip from the rear ceiling panel perfect.
Works awesome. I used it every time I use reverse.
I was in the process of looking for something that would help me parallel park. I looked at reverse cameras but that would require a new headunit. I was trying to find a small monitor I could place over my rear view mirror with a back cam, but no luck. But in the process I found this item, Esky Car Reverse Backup Radar System.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191479860403?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Oddly enough [MENTION=111369]s20004runner[/MENTION] posted this at about the same time.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/193511-reverse-back-up-sensor-install-easy-cheap-mod.html
I figured for $20 I’d give it a shot. But i didn’t want to drill holes into anything, so I picked up a trailer hitch plug/cap for $4. The kit came with a drill bit that worked just fine on plastic.
Install took about 30 minutes. I didn’t have to drill any holes for this on the truck, I ran the wires in pre-existing holes. I pulled the driver side rear panel, a few screws to remove the cargo cover brackets. I tapped into the reverse light wire. With the truck off, I turned the key to accessories and put it into reverse. I unplugged the light clip and used a multimeter to find the hot wire.
Sorry it’s been a few weeks but if I remember correctly it was the bottom right wire. I can double check if anybody needs it. I mounted the computer unit in an area behind the panel and used the supplied double sided tap.
The unit I got had the option to turn the sound off. I wanted something that I could see while I was looking back. I tried to use the double sided tape but that wasn’t strong enough. So I found some galvanized pipe strap (looks something like http://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Pi...F8&qid=1434998636&sr=8-1&keywords=metal+strap) and made a bracket for it. The holes in the strap were perfect and it fit into the push clip from the rear ceiling panel perfect.
Works awesome. I used it every time I use reverse.
Last edited:
JayRolla
New member
I’ve been trying to find a solution to my ripped seats. I really wanted to keep it looking stock without spending too much money. I was tempted by ordering just the driver seat bottom leathers for $210 from ebay user upholsteryguys (1996 1997 1998 1999 Toyota 4Runner Leather Seat Cover Passenger Side Bottom Tan | eBay) I ordered a sample and it was almost an exact match. But it would have cost me over $400 to change out a single front seat.
After reading reviews from [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] with his Iggee Seat Covers i decided to take the plunge.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ynthetic-leather-seat-covers-installed-2.html
Got them off ebay.
Toyota 4Runner 1986 2002 s Leather Custom Seat Cover 13 Colors Available | eBay
for $179.00 shipped. They arrived in under 2 weeks.
Install was easy, I finished in under an hour for both front seats.
You place the clips on the straps and connect them front/back and side to side.
You cut a small hole to align the origin clip for the headrest and push it through.
With a back pocket.
It’s a little brighter than the stock but I like it so far. Maybe if I get it dirty it’ll look the same.
The video from iggee helped.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FQqGYTIDkPk
Feels good so far. I wished I had done it earlier to save my seats from ripping more. Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] for the review.
So far mine are holding up fine. They are not super hot in the sun like the leather was, or I just havnt noticed. They have no cracks, tears even with me rubbing the hell out of them jumping in and out. They clean easy too. Love them, best $179 ive spent on my truck so far IMO.
About to do a black vinyl wrap on the hood. Will post that up on here when done.
RAT Skid Plate
My skid plates were looking ratty, and i jumped on a group buy on impulse. I should have taken a picture of my old ones, rusty, greasy, a few holes….
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group-buys/192556-tax-refund-skid-plate-group-buy-3rd-gen.html
Good communication from [MENTION=101896]isu2014[/MENTION]. Came when he said. Primed and painted a few weeks ago, installed this weekend. I used a floor jack with a piece of wood to install. It's pretty heavy.
Installed
I might be imagining things but it seems like my new skids are louder at speed. I think the oem skids covered more but I’m not sure.
Otherwise, love it. Now I just need to go somewhere where I might need it.
My skid plates were looking ratty, and i jumped on a group buy on impulse. I should have taken a picture of my old ones, rusty, greasy, a few holes….
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group-buys/192556-tax-refund-skid-plate-group-buy-3rd-gen.html
Good communication from [MENTION=101896]isu2014[/MENTION]. Came when he said. Primed and painted a few weeks ago, installed this weekend. I used a floor jack with a piece of wood to install. It's pretty heavy.
Installed
I might be imagining things but it seems like my new skids are louder at speed. I think the oem skids covered more but I’m not sure.
Otherwise, love it. Now I just need to go somewhere where I might need it.
Some more updates. After driving 1000 miles I believe I've lost .5 mpg after installing a RAT skid plate, with increased road noise.... but something else might have affected this. My tires, 265 75 17 Cooper ATP, looks like they're half worn and getting louder. I'm currently searching for new tires (looking at Michelin ltx ms2's). While at the same time my rear driver axle seal started leaking. I'm confident my rear breather diff is ok, so maybe it's my rear wheel bearings. Hopefully I'll be able to get this taken care of next week.
To note, 4 months ago I changed my rear diff fluid to lucas synthetic 75-90. I was thinking in my head if I should have used conventional gear oil. If I could go back I would use conventional gear oil instead of synthetic, then I wouldn't have questioned my leaking rear seals.
I'm currently at around 163,000.
To note, 4 months ago I changed my rear diff fluid to lucas synthetic 75-90. I was thinking in my head if I should have used conventional gear oil. If I could go back I would use conventional gear oil instead of synthetic, then I wouldn't have questioned my leaking rear seals.
I'm currently at around 163,000.
