Grinding into reverse

A

ATP4984

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Do anyone else's gears grind every time you shift into reverse? Is this normal? I usually just turn up the radio and pretend nothing happened, but I guess I need to get this checked out.
 
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Do you make a complete stop then shift to reverse?
Also try shifting to first then into reverse.

But if you get allot of grinding it could be a sign your clutch is starting to go.
 
Nooooo... I've never had a manual transmission vehicle before, but I get the feeling you're right. It's really tough to get into fourth gear as well.
 
Replace pilot shift lever bushing & seat

Replace pilot shift lever bushing & seat.They are available at any Toyota dealership around the world:

Shift lever pilot bushing # 33548-31010 (green)=$7 CDN
Shift lever seat # 33505-35020 or 33505-35030 (white)=$16 CDN

Note: the 2 above #’s fit all trannies:G,R,W series (22R,R-E,3VZE)84-95.5,no need for entire shift lever retainer (85-95.5 pre-Tacoma)

http://www.4runners.org/articles/shift/
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/shifter/index.html

Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:[email protected]
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 241 000 KM

:hat:
 
You may also want to change out your gear oil in the interim. Buy a lot of it! Mine took nearly 3 gallons to swap the fluids in both axles, tranny and t-case!

Mine was sticking in first and grinding in reverse. It has not totally fixed it, but made it better. I am going to make the repairs mentioned above and see how that does!
 
Does the drive line use synthetic or standard 90 wt? I'm talking about a 1987 4R here...not one of the new high tech gizmos
 
Woa... this is an old thread. Anyway-
My 93 grinds going into reverse too and so does my cousin's 86 Subaru GL. I'm not sure if it's normal or not. If you come to a stop and hold the clutch in and wait for a couple seconds before putting it in reverse it gives the transmission time to stop spinning so it won't grind. It may take a few tries though because after you let the tranny stop, the gears don't always line up.

But the rest of my gears grind too. I have no idea what it is. I've changed the trans. fluid and replaced the shifter bushings with the little kit from Marlin Crawler. I think I'll try the master & slave cylinders next.
 
a red 4runner said:
Woa... this is an old thread. Anyway-
My 93 grinds going into reverse too and so does my cousin's 86 Subaru GL. I'm not sure if it's normal or not. If you come to a stop and hold the clutch in and wait for a couple seconds before putting it in reverse it gives the transmission time to stop spinning so it won't grind. It may take a few tries though because after you let the tranny stop, the gears don't always line up.

But the rest of my gears grind too. I have no idea what it is. I've changed the trans. fluid and replaced the shifter bushings with the little kit from Marlin Crawler. I think I'll try the master & slave cylinders next.
Click to expand...

Mine grinds randomly when going into reverse. Even before I've started driving it will do it. I'll start it up in the morning, go into reverse and it'll grind into it. It's nothing compared to when I mess up while driving like trying to change gears w/out the clutch, but it still does it occasionally with no precedence. Although my tranny is leaking a little.
 
This could be several different problems, like a clutch going out, the clutch needing a bit of adjustment (done at the clutch pedal), it could even be a slave or master going out, or even the wrong gear oil used (never use limited slip fluid in the trans!).

First things first, where's the pedal grabbing when you take off? Barely off the floor? Almost at the end of the pedal's travel? In the middle?

Does it grind in all gears? Is it hard to go into all of them, or just reverse, or reverse and first?

Does the clutch slip in 4th or 5th when you floor it? Is there any burning clutch smell when you park?

That should help narrow it down a bit.
 
Do you have to have the clutch pedal hard pressed down all te way to the floor to put it in reverse?

I ask because i used to have this problem and had to do a bit of clutch adjustment (when replacing my master clutch cyl). The master clutch cyl is usually adjusted with a half inch of play between where the clutch pedal rests without touching it - to when you start to depress it. Once you press it im half an inch you will feel the clutch pedal touch the master cyl shaft.

Most cars have a milimeter or two of play, not half an inch. Toyota has always had half an inch as the spec in the FSM - but most people who have these old trucks find they need to adjust it to a tighter tolerance, which gives them more throw - and gets rid of the grind.

Ive had it adjusted with a few mm of play as opposed to half an inch for 3 years and it fixed that issue long ago. Also fixed grinding into 1st and 2nd in cold weather.

HOWEVER - If you adjust the shaft to be preloaded by the pedals top position, by mistake ( when your foots not on it) it will be like riding the clutch so only someone who knows what they are doing should make this adjustment.
 
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Mine grinds going into reverse, but only if the flywheel is spinning forward. I don't think the reverse gear has a synchro. If I wait for a second or two after moving forward, reverse slips in with no problem.

If you make a clutch adjustment, also look to see if a support bracket is broken. I can't remember which bracket, but it is supposed to be a common problem. Worth googling.

I have also read that the type of gear oil in your transmission makes a difference. The old manual does not like the newest synthetic oil. One source says to put in GL-4 instead of GL-5.
 
The problem is reverse does not have a synchro. The simple solution is to put the vehicle in fifth using the Synchro then reverse will go in like butter.
If you still get grinding on the fifth gear your clutch is not engaging correctly or your synchros are shot
 
I've been reading up on how GL-5 rated gear oil has a higher sulfur content and can corrode the synchros even though the manual says you can use GL-4 or GL-5. A lot of people with shifting issues have said that Redline MT-90 or Royal Purple are good GL-4 oils that are made for helping your synchros grip.

Something else you can try is OVERFILLING your transmission. But only slightly, like a 1/4 quart (1cup). I read about it here: CURE NOTCHY SHIFTING! 3rd gen and taco - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
My R150F transmission had pretty grindy shifting but I tried this just for shits and giggles and, to my amazement, overfilling it .25 quarts actually made a big difference! It still grinds, but noticeably less.

I recently got some of that Redline MT-90 gear oil that I'll be putting in soon. I'll let you guys know what happens.
 
Beat solution I have found is a 60/40 60% gl5 and 40% ATF 3
Cleans the fluid and parts also makes the fluid thinner so smoother shifting. Never had a tranny fail using this. And always nice clean fluid when I change it out!
 
same

I had that problem. I usually come to a COMPLETE stop then shift into reverse as i am letting the clutch out a little. this works most of the time. once i get it in i slam the clutch pedal down. it works but should be checked out.
 
I agree with the above , reverse does not have a syncro so you need to be at a complete stop . Even the owner's manual says if you have a hard time going into reverse , put it in neutral , take your foot off the clutch , then push it back in and go back to reverse , that's pretty much just double clutching it . Mine likes to give me problems every now and then too , I more or less just ignore it , just chock it up to there being no syncro for reverse .
 
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