Guide: V8 Timing belt replacement 2UZ-FE VVT-i
- Thread starter Jcmeadows82
- Start date
xtremewlr
Member
Not a valid URL for anything.
Arcwelder87
Junior Member
One thing i found helpful here - is there was no need to loosen the top rear AC compressor bolt, it has nothing to do with the fan pulley bracket. i just removed the front 2, and bottom (behind the oil filter) bolts - and the bracket came right off.
Also, for the crank bolt - i don't know if i got lucky - or just set myself up properly. But Using a crank holding tool (this one) 2 each of the 24" breaker bars from autozone loan-a-tool, and 1 22mm impact socket made the crank bolt surprisingly easy. I installed the holder tool with the 1/2" insert facing downwards towards the driver side frame, 1 breaker bar connected to that, resting against the frame, and the other breaker bar at high noon to pull on the bolt and it came right off with 1 person, no bs, no starter hack.
My new-to-me 2005 v8 is at 177kmi. The timing belt inspection sticker says it was changed at 101kmi.
At present the belt looks in perfect condition to me. I also had a pre-purchase inspection done on it.
Should I replace it at 190kmi, or wait till 200kmi?
And when I do get it replaced, I probably will just pay a shop to have it done. How much can I expect to pay for a timing belt replacement?
At present the belt looks in perfect condition to me. I also had a pre-purchase inspection done on it.
Should I replace it at 190kmi, or wait till 200kmi?
And when I do get it replaced, I probably will just pay a shop to have it done. How much can I expect to pay for a timing belt replacement?
BlackWorksInc
New member
All engines are interference engines for the most part if you really want to get technical about it...
That being said, the 2UZ-FE is considered an interference engine because of the valve overlap/piston clearance IF the engine where to come out of time at a relatively moderate RPM. I have been surprised by many of the VVTi units I've seen snap a belt and survive (maybe a dented valve or two; but nothing warranting replacement/further tear-down beyond a new belt). But that's more being lucky than anything else in my experience.
Post Note-
Seems like it's time to retire my T-Belt DIY thread now.
Jcmeadows82
Member
All engines are interference engines for the most part if you really want to get technical about it...
That being said, the 2UZ-FE is considered an interference engine because of the valve overlap/piston clearance IF the engine where to come out of time at a relatively moderate RPM. I have been surprised by many of the VVTi units I've seen snap a belt and survive (maybe a dented valve or two; but nothing warranting replacement/further tear-down beyond a new belt). But that's more being lucky than anything else in my experience.
Post Note-
Seems like it's time to retire my T-Belt DIY thread now.
^thank you for the high praise BlackWorksInc. I take tons of pictures every time I do work on my cars and I think the OCD in me helps. Just figured that since I had just completed the job I might as well post my work.
In my opinion, 10km difference is not an issue... 40 - 60 and we might have a different situation. That being said, modern day timing belts are pretty darn robust. I think of a timing belt job as more of an opportunity to replace all of the pulleys, tensioner, and pumps as well as the belt on a new-to-me vehicle. I like to know that wear and tear systems are in good standing order on my vehicles. Probably a bit over the top, but there it is.
As far as cost, I was quoted $2,800 for the job replacing all of the components that I did myself. I've heard it can be as high as $3,500, and I am sure u can get it for a little less than what my shop quoted me. So, I saved SOME money, got myself some tools, and had a great time doing it. Next time I do the job it will cost me significantly less and be a considerably shorter project.
Wanted to say thanks for this guide. I had the FSM printed out, had videos queued up if necessary, but really only refered to the images in this DIY. It that good.
A few notes from my own install that might help someone:
- Put painters tape on vac lines and connectors so you don't forget
- There's plenty of room with the radiator still installed but just put a pizza box or some other cardboard as protection. Even before fan removal.
- 2 12mm for fan, 12mm+long screwdriver for final one. May need to pry the fan off. Take off aux belt before doing this.
- Drain both block spigots with 10mm swivel socket (not just u joint) and like 2 ft of extensions. Then it won't splooge everywhere when you take the parts off the front of the engine.
- 14mm swivel socket makes rear bolt for AC compressor very easy
- Need very large breaker to jam under drivers frame rail when loosening crank bolt. I used 3/4 drive 36" breaker to crack it loose. Also had to Dremel flutes into the M8 bolts to basically make a bottoming tap because my balancer had 18 years of Northeast shit in the holes. Have a puller on hand just as insurance policy. I surprisingly didn't need it.
- Verify timing on the lines and 0* mark first, and the little casting nipple. Then use the T markings for the actual belt swap.
- Cleaning the WP gasket material thoroughly off the block is the worst part of the job. Have razor and Scotch Brite and determination.
- I had to work my new TB tensioner in and out in my vise before it applied uniform spring rate. At first the top 3/16" travel was quite weak. Same thing with the NTN unit in the Aisin kit and the NTN from the dealer.
- Install belt from crank, to Lcam, to WP, to Rcam, to tensioner. Get all slack to tensioner side before pulling pin.
- Between old belt stretch/new belt and fresh tensioner etc, I think there is a visual couple millimeter "margin" where, as long as the marks aren't like obviously off, don't sweat it.
- Reattaching the AC compressor to fan bracket takes jimmying.
- Have torque specs on hand for reassembly.
- May need to re-learn idle afterward.
A few notes from my own install that might help someone:
- Put painters tape on vac lines and connectors so you don't forget
- There's plenty of room with the radiator still installed but just put a pizza box or some other cardboard as protection. Even before fan removal.
- 2 12mm for fan, 12mm+long screwdriver for final one. May need to pry the fan off. Take off aux belt before doing this.
- Drain both block spigots with 10mm swivel socket (not just u joint) and like 2 ft of extensions. Then it won't splooge everywhere when you take the parts off the front of the engine.
- 14mm swivel socket makes rear bolt for AC compressor very easy
- Need very large breaker to jam under drivers frame rail when loosening crank bolt. I used 3/4 drive 36" breaker to crack it loose. Also had to Dremel flutes into the M8 bolts to basically make a bottoming tap because my balancer had 18 years of Northeast shit in the holes. Have a puller on hand just as insurance policy. I surprisingly didn't need it.
- Verify timing on the lines and 0* mark first, and the little casting nipple. Then use the T markings for the actual belt swap.
- Cleaning the WP gasket material thoroughly off the block is the worst part of the job. Have razor and Scotch Brite and determination.
- I had to work my new TB tensioner in and out in my vise before it applied uniform spring rate. At first the top 3/16" travel was quite weak. Same thing with the NTN unit in the Aisin kit and the NTN from the dealer.
- Install belt from crank, to Lcam, to WP, to Rcam, to tensioner. Get all slack to tensioner side before pulling pin.
- Between old belt stretch/new belt and fresh tensioner etc, I think there is a visual couple millimeter "margin" where, as long as the marks aren't like obviously off, don't sweat it.
- Reattaching the AC compressor to fan bracket takes jimmying.
- Have torque specs on hand for reassembly.
- May need to re-learn idle afterward.
Jcmeadows82
Member
I am going to be doing this job again at some point in 2026. I will try to update the guide with some of these tips, as a couple of them caused me to smack my head and say "duah" out loud when I read them. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Drakethefirst
Junior Member
I am wanting to do this job myself too, but just for starters I have seen some people just do the first part of this guide to get access to see the belt in order to check its condition, it looks quite easy for a good peace of mind for anyone that just bough their 4runner without any service records
landonp513
New member
Thanks!
This is great!
This is great!
