Guys I'm worried!

brianemc2_42 said:
I know it could be a lot of different things but its burning or losing coolant and overheating.

Is it throwing any codes?

:fishing:
Click to expand...

No codes and I Belive it is just something todo with the rad, I rode a/c off and didn't smell anti freeze (I did but it's bc it was outside while my rad boiled over)

wheres the thermo go gents!
 
3rd gen king said:
No codes and I Belive it is just something todo with the rad, I rode a/c off and didn't smell anti freeze (I did but it's bc it was outside while my rad boiled over)

wheres the thermo go gents!
Click to expand...

right here
 

Attachments

  • 5VZ front view thermo.JPG
    5VZ front view thermo.JPG
    28.7 KB · Views: 331
If your overheating like that, I wouldnt run the AC, that just makes the motor work even harder; if you run the heat the motor will be much happier until you get this whole mess sorted
 
3rd gen king said:
No sig cause I'm still stock :D haha yeah I've been considering that also and I told my dad about it but his explanation was "if you get mixing of the 2 ****s, that something is ****ed up" essentially it prevents them from mixing BUT you still have a leak. And he's right.
Click to expand...

No, he isn't right.

That's like saying when you drink you may as well drive home because something ****ed up is going to happen anyway.
 
Thermo was the issue but I'm going to get a new rad cap for ****s and giggles

Edit*

I didn't realize all the pics and links, thanks guys but I found it!


THANKS AND 4runners ftw!
 
Last edited:
Ok so I when on a 15 min drive and it was good, when i got home I noticed it was boiling.

I did the thermo and will to the cap today, BUT I know it's worse, I can hear it in though my heater.


Does anyone think it's the water pump? Is this a signal it's going bad?
Or should I just get a new rad and be gone with this **** (hopefully a new rad will fix this)

Please and thanks guys



And when I did the water, it was poop brown. No pink or shakeyness to it
 
FuddRunner said:
If your coolants clean, replace the state and get a pressure and leak down test. Provided your around 14psi and your not losing vacum during the leak down test you should be good. If the waters mixed with any type of other fluid start saving. If it's pink your tranny stinks. If it's brown your head gaskets are down. The later two are a bummer, hope it's just a stuck stat.

Respectfully,

Fudd
Click to expand...

Wait, my water was brown :,(


Sooooooooooooooo I have a head gastket out?
 
360K on a radiator with brown water sounds like rust got the better of you. Before you rip the heads off and spend big $$$$$$$$, spend $150 on a radiator and heater core. Chances are the rust got the heater core and the radiator. Heater core could be the reason you smell anti-freeze inside. Some things to determine before you take the heads off. Change the radiator and heater core these are needed repairs with 360k. Have the system pressure tested. Is the engine missing(coolant in the cylinder), is the coolant getting hot and boiling over quickly or slowly(quickly=exhaust gases in coolant, slowly=partial blockage is system). Do you have water in the oil(looks like chocolate milk) or oil in your water(gelatin looking chocolate shake). Is your vehicle smoking with sweet exhaust smell(burning coolant). Go down the list start with the least expensive things first(Cap, Tstat, Heater Core, Radiator, Water Pump then Head Gaskets).
 
3rd gen king said:
Ok so I when on a 15 min drive and it was good, when i got home I noticed it was boiling.

I did the thermo and will to the cap today, BUT I know it's worse, I can hear it in though my heater.
Does anyone think it's the water pump? Is this a signal it's going bad?
Or should I just get a new rad and be gone with this **** (hopefully a new rad will fix this)

Please and thanks guys



And when I did the water, it was poop brown. No pink or shakeyness to it
Click to expand...
May have answered your own ? Heater Core? Radiator?
 
athlon450 said:
360K on a radiator with brown water sounds like rust got the better of you. Before you rip the heads off and spend big $$$$$$$$, spend $150 on a radiator and heater core. Chances are the rust got the heater core and the radiator. Heater core could be the reason you smell anti-freeze inside. Some things to determine before you take the heads off. Change the radiator and heater core these are needed repairs with 360k. Have the system pressure tested. Is the engine missing(coolant in the cylinder), is the coolant getting hot and boiling over quickly or slowly(quickly=exhaust gases in coolant, slowly=partial blockage is system). Do you have water in the oil(looks like chocolate milk) or oil in your water(gelatin looking chocolate shake). Is your vehicle smoking with sweet exhaust smell(burning coolant). Go down the list start with the least expensive things first(Cap, Tstat, Heater Core, Radiator, Water Pump then Head Gaskets).
Click to expand...


This will be my bible as of now,thank you very much. I read brown water = head gasket and flipped ****. Alright, as of now I have changed the cap and thermo, new rad will be ordered (my dad bought this all aluminum performance one for his trans am, should i go as far as that Or oem is fine?)

And I do not think its my heater core because the condensation lliterally steams into my rig from the rear of the engine bay (firewall) and out of the front, (or is it the heater core under the dash?!?!)

On order:

Rad

Already done:
Cap and thermo
 
And it doesn't boil if I go around for a NORMAL short drive. But stop and go traffic or me gassing it she boils


So partial I would say.
 
Koyo Radiator seems to be the product of choice, its around $100 and heater core from parts house is about $50. These need to be replaced with 360k anyway, I would say. I would run a radiator flush and then flush with fresh water, hose in radiator with water on low, heater on and let the water run until it all comes out clean. Drain the radiator and the block(draincock under passenger side exhaust manifold). Get several gallons of distilled water and refill the system and run for a few minutes and drain the radiator. Refill with coolant and top off with distilled water. I would replace all the hoses at the same time. Check the water pump for leaks by removing the upper timing cover(5 bolts) and shining a flash into the timing cover looking for leaks. All this is still alot cheaper than pulling heads and needs to be replaced for peace of mind. When you get the cooling system ship shape, you can run a good pressure/leakdown test on the cooling system to see if the head gaskets are leaking. All this is less time and cheaper than heads. If you have to do the heads all the proceeding things will need to be done anyway.
 
new rad will be ordered (my dad bought this all aluminum performance one for his trans am, should i go as far as that Or oem is fine?)
Click to expand...

The OEM replacement is by KOYO. It can be found online for ~ $150.
 
sorry but my money is on the heads / head gasket. 360k is a huge amount of miles, most 4Runners will need engine work before 360k miles.
 
Ze big red is fixed!

So I replaced:
Rad cap
Rad
Water pump
Thermo
Fan clutch

Drained and washed out rad


Did all this **** and it was coooooooool for all of about 30 mins, I drove my friend home and the bitxh over heaters again! The only thing left was the HEATER CORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I re routed the hoses (Texas psshh who needs a heater, lol I'll replace it next week) around the heater core and I have a fixed and running excellent runner!


Oh yeah, and I did ALL the belts, since I had them off.

But I have a question.

My air box (top bolt, to frame) mount broke, an I have to zip tie it, VERY TACKY,the intake hose? (thing leading from air box to top of engine,I'm drawing a blank) is dry rotted and cracked like a mofo! Looked it up online an it's like $400.... I think I'm going to get a cold air intake for $200 to solve my problem. Suggestions?
 
Glad you found the problem! All that was still cheaper than a head gasket replacement. ;): As far as the intake, ISR mod comes to mind, again cheaper and does the same thing.
 
3rd gen king said:
So I replaced:
Rad cap
Rad
Water pump
Thermo
Fan clutch

Drained and washed out rad


Did all this **** and it was coooooooool for all of about 30 mins, I drove my friend home and the bitxh over heaters again! The only thing left was the HEATER CORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I re routed the hoses (Texas psshh who needs a heater, lol I'll replace it next week) around the heater core and I have a fixed and running excellent runner!


Oh yeah, and I did ALL the belts, since I had them off.

But I have a question.

My air box (top bolt, to frame) mount broke, an I have to zip tie it, VERY TACKY,the intake hose? (thing leading from air box to top of engine,I'm drawing a blank) is dry rotted and cracked like a mofo! Looked it up online an it's like $400.... I think I'm going to get a cold air intake for $200 to solve my problem. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

You mean the tube? Lol.

Cai or find one from a junkyard in good condition.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 545 (members: 4, guests: 541)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,109
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top