Hanma LED Group Buy

[c2one]

Is there a certain type of wiring harness I should be using when installing these lights? What wiring harness would you purchase? (Question is for everyone)

 

[gaterose]

Is there a certain type of wiring harness I should be using when installing these lights? What wiring harness would you purchase? (Question is for everyone)

I just picked up an "Auxiliry wiring harness" from advanced, oreilly, autozone, csk, etc. Hanma does sell a wiring harness for these lights, but it's nothing special costs the same (maybe a little more) as buying one of those kits I mentioned and adding a nice OTRATTW switch. All you need is a fuse, switch, relay, and wire.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Here's a good writeup that details how to install without a premade harness. This is how I did mine on the 4runner and plan to do the same with the new ones on the truck.
DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums

 

[c2one]

I just picked up an "Auxiliry wiring harness" from advanced, oreilly, autozone, csk, etc. Hanma does sell a wiring harness for these lights, but it's nothing special costs the same (maybe a little more) as buying one of those kits I mentioned and adding a nice OTRATTW switch. All you need is a fuse, switch, relay, and wire.

Thanks for that ... "Auxiliary wiring harness" that's exactly what I needed to know. I hate walking into a store not knowing what I need. And I just ordered a OTRATTW switch.

Here's a good writeup that details how to install without a premade harness. This is how I did mine on the 4runner and plan to do the same with the new ones on the truck.
DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums

I saved the link. Once I get a feel for what a wiring harness setup looks like, then I'll feel more comfortable doing all the wiring.

Now just saving up to buy a Gobi stealth rack and some more LED bars for that!

 

[T4rman]

I have a Cree 40in bar that I got from the Gaterose GB. I have been running it for about a year. Functionally they are great. The light output is ridiculous. I havent had any water leaks or burnt out leds. The only complaint I have with these is the coating. The anodization and paint on mine showed heavy fading after 6 or 7 months. I took the bar off and put a proper prime and paint on there. It has been great since. I would definitely buy another hamna bar.

 

[vovat]

Hey,

I'm down for the BC COMBO 21.5 inch lights.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Bump, all orders/funds must be received by midnight tonight.

Here is a summary of the order. Please confirm yours is correct and let me know ASAP if it is not. First thing in the morning I will e-mail them our list and request an invoice, then submit payment as soon as the invoice is received.
[MENTION=87216]RedStickRunner[/MENTION] - 1 31.5" BC Series DR - Combo
[MENTION=98089]c2one[/MENTION] - 1 22" BCS series SR - Combo
[MENTION=88447]kenski[/MENTION] - 3 6" SR with Epistar LED's - Flood
[MENTION=82920]1blink[/MENTION] - 2 6" SR with Epistar LED's - Flood, 1 30.5" BCS Series SR - Combo
[MENTION=96902]vovat[/MENTION] - 1 21.5" BC Series DR - Combo

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

[MENTION=87216]RedStickRunner[/MENTION] [MENTION=98089]c2one[/MENTION] [MENTION=88447]kenski[/MENTION] [MENTION=82920]1blink[/MENTION] [MENTION=96902]vovat[/MENTION]

I submitted the payment for the lights today. Estimated arrival will be the end of next week, and I will work on getting the mailed out to you ASAP. I should have a tracking number within the next day or two, once I have that I can provide more concrete details.

 

[RedStickRunner]

[MENTION=87216]RedStickRunner[/MENTION] [MENTION=98089]c2one[/MENTION] [MENTION=88447]kenski[/MENTION] [MENTION=82920]1blink[/MENTION] [MENTION=96902]vovat[/MENTION]

I submitted the payment for the lights today. Estimated arrival will be the end of next week, and I will work on getting the mailed out to you ASAP. I should have a tracking number within the next day or two, once I have that I can provide more concrete details.

Awesome. Thanks man!

 

[snivilous]

Is there a certain type of wiring harness I should be using when installing these lights? What wiring harness would you purchase? (Question is for everyone)

I doubt you need a relay, just put a fuse and switch inline with either the positive or negative and you should be good to go. I am running OTTRATTW switches which are rated at 20amps, and with the amount of wiring you are probably using a relay won't help much I don't think (unless someone with electrical experience can verify otherwise). I didn't notice a brightness decrease in my lights from running 6" of wiring to running 10+ feet (my roof rack lights wires go down the rack, through the tail gate, then all the way to the front). A relay should be used if the switch is far away from the power source as I understand it and you are using small guage wire. I just used appropriate gauge wire for the amperage and hard wired everything in, made it much simpler too (two wires per light/switch versus five). Food for thought.

 

[c2one]

I doubt you need a relay, just put a fuse and switch inline with either the positive or negative and you should be good to go. I am running OTTRATTW switches which are rated at 20amps, and with the amount of wiring you are probably using a relay won't help much I don't think (unless someone with electrical experience can verify otherwise). I didn't notice a brightness decrease in my lights from running 6" of wiring to running 10+ feet (my roof rack lights wires go down the rack, through the tail gate, then all the way to the front). A relay should be used if the switch is far away from the power source as I understand it and you are using small guage wire. I just used appropriate gauge wire for the amperage and hard wired everything in, made it much simpler too (two wires per light/switch versus five). Food for thought.

Thanks! Something to chew on.

I've already been to two automotive stores and neither have an auxiliary wire harness or any thing else besides trailer wiring harness.

I ordered an OTRATTW switch already.... What gauge wiring should I use?

For the light I ordered:
Current draw: 12v/9.94a ; 24v/4.9a
Operating Voltage: 10-32v DC

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

On any of the bars under 40", the current draw is less than 20 amps so the OTRATTW switch can be used without a relay (which is my plan since my biggest only pulls 7.5 amps). However, other switches such as the OEM FJ switch aren't rated for that much current so that's where a relay is required.

I found that using a relay gave more wiring options. I have mine on the 4runner wired so the lights will turn off with the ignition (so I can't leave them on accidentally). Running just the switch I can't see a way to do this, since the switch power is pulled directly from the battery. Also, with the relay I was able to use a simple off/on switch to control the lights but also have the rear lights trigger to come on automatically when the 4runner is in reverse.

There may be ways to do this without a relay, but I'm not aware of how to do it.

 

[Jedrattle]

Damn, I missed it again. Does anyone know who sells these lights normally?

 

[zopperman]

On any of the bars under 40", the current draw is less than 20 amps so the OTRATTW switch can be used without a relay (which is my plan since my biggest only pulls 7.5 amps). However, other switches such as the OEM FJ switch aren't rated for that much current so that's where a relay is required.

I found that using a relay gave more wiring options. I have mine on the 4runner wired so the lights will turn off with the ignition (so I can't leave them on accidentally). Running just the switch I can't see a way to do this, since the switch power is pulled directly from the battery. Also, with the relay I was able to use a simple off/on switch to control the lights but also have the rear lights trigger to come on automatically when the 4runner is in reverse.

There may be ways to do this without a relay, but I'm not aware of how to do it.

Why don't you just tap an empty fuse box slot instead of wiring the switch right to the battery? It'll turn off with the ignition, no relay.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Why don't you just tap an empty fuse box slot instead of wiring the switch right to the battery? It'll turn off with the ignition, no relay.

That's an option, but then you're powering the lights through factory wiring which may or may not be sufficient. By running a direct line to the battery with a heavier gauge wire you can provide enough power to the lights.

With a relay setup I have on the 4runner, the switch pulls power from the fuse panel but this is a very small amount. The relay it's connected to the battery and supplies power to the lights.

Jedrattle, sent you a pm.

 

[zopperman]

That's an option, but then you're powering the lights through factory wiring which may or may not be sufficient. By running a direct line to the battery with a heavier gauge wire you can provide enough power to the lights.

With a relay setup I have on the 4runner, the switch pulls power from the fuse panel but this is a very small amount. The relay it's connected to the battery and supplies power to the lights.

Jedrattle, sent you a pm.

right, and the switch just pulls enough amperage to trigger the relay, which would be very small. However, I would assume that the factory wiring is good for 20 amps since there are factory fuses in there rated to 20 amps, right?

 

[snivilous]

Thanks! Something to chew on.

I've already been to two automotive stores and neither have an auxiliary wire harness or any thing else besides trailer wiring harness.

I ordered an OTRATTW switch already.... What gauge wiring should I use?

For the light I ordered:
Current draw: 12v/9.94a ; 24v/4.9a
Operating Voltage: 10-32v DC

I used a chart like this: Electrical Wire Sizes - What Size Electrical Wire Do I Need

And then just went a little over so the wire was rated higher than the fuse and I used a 15A fuse as I recall in all my lights (up to 30" bars).

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

right, and the switch just pulls enough amperage to trigger the relay, which would be very small. However, I would assume that the factory wiring is good for 20 amps since there are factory fuses in there rated to 20 amps, right?

That's a good point. To me, factory wiring just doesn't seem heavy enough for these lights. Based on the chart snivilous posted, somewhere between 12 and 18 gauge should be used depending in which lights and how many you are using. I'm not sure what factory is but I'm pretty sure it's 18 or smaller. Any of you more experienced folks want to chime in? I'm still new to this stuff, so if any of you can comment on why this is/is not a good idea it'd be appreciated.

 

[zopperman]

That's a good point. To me, factory wiring just doesn't seem heavy enough for these lights. Based on the chart snivilous posted, somewhere between 12 and 18 gauge should be used depending in which lights and how many you are using. I'm not sure what factory is but I'm pretty sure it's 18 or smaller. Any of you more experienced folks want to chime in? I'm still new to this stuff, so if any of you can comment on why this is/is not a good idea it'd be appreciated.

Edit, I see your biggest is 7.5 amp draw. You should be fine running through the fuse box the way I suggested. I powered some lights (KC) 8.3 amp draw each through a switch wired this way (16.6 a total draw) and I had no issues. I used the supplie 20a fuse between the lights and the switchKC didn't provide a relay and I didn't use one since the switch was rated for 20a.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Which lights are you running/what is max draw?

Mine total around 175 Watts, so less than 15 amps. I'm running these on my truck and definitely don't trust factory wiring there so I will be wiring directly to the battery. My questions are more for general info. On something newer like the 4runner that may work, but no way I'd do it on my truck.