Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[Flzrider]

I notice that I now have a little more pedal travel before the brakes grab than I did w/the stock setup, but when they grab, they are much stronger.

The 13WL caliper has a larger fluid capacity (it holds more fluid within the caliper) than a stock caliper, or even a 13WE 199mm caliper. When you press the brake pedal, you have to depress it further because you have to move more fluid through the lines to achieve the same degree of movement in the caliper/pistons. Your pedal is going to feel different initially, but once the pads contact the rotor and the brakes grab, it should feel just as firm as it did stock. The difference is that you won't reach that firm feeling in the pedal at the same pedal height.

Now if you get to where the brakes have grabbed, and the pedal still feels spongy, then you may still have some air in the lines. Remember, you can't compress a fluid, so if fluid is all you've got in the lines, you shouldn't have a spongy pedal.

True. I think I will try re-bleeding it just to double-check, but otherwise it might just take getting used to.

 

[MAD 69]

Does anyone know what the stock rotor size is on our 3rd gens? I only want to go up to 199mm TBU because I do not want to cut or grind anything and I don't want to worry about my spare tire. I have the stock 3 spokes and tires and do not plan on going larger. I don't need to tow anything but I will sometimes car pool and have 4 or 5 people in the Runner so somewhat larger calipers will help out.

 

[Triumphdog]

I'm in the process of doing this upgrade as we speak. After running into a few snags I'm at a resting point (aka. Napa sold me a caliper with a cross threaded brake line inlet). Also, anyone find that their new pads on the outside are touching the rotor? When I spin the wheel (slowly) I noticed the outer pad slightly touching the rotor. Any suggestions?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Does anyone know what the stock rotor size is on our 3rd gens? I only want to go up to 199mm TBU because I do not want to cut or grind anything and I don't want to worry about my spare tire. I have the stock 3 spokes and tires and do not plan on going larger. I don't need to tow anything but I will sometimes car pool and have 4 or 5 people in the Runner so somewhat larger calipers will help out.

I'm not exactly sure what the diameter of the stock rotors is, but the Tundra rotor has the exact same diameter, as seen in the picture below. The main difference between the stock rotor and the Tundra rotor is that the braking surfaces of the Tundra rotors are much thicker.

The 199mm TBU and 231mm TBU use the SAME ROTORS. The only difference between the two mods is the caliper. The "MM" rating (ie 199 vs 231) refers to the size of the BRAKE PAD that the calipers use, and has nothing to do w/the rotor.

Re-read the thread... take your time. You will learn a few things.

Tundra rotor (right) VS. Stock 4Runner Rotor (left)

I'm in the process of doing this upgrade as we speak. After running into a few snags I'm at a resting point (aka. Napa sold me a caliper with a cross threaded brake line inlet). Also, anyone find that their new pads on the outside are touching the rotor? When I spin the wheel (slowly) I noticed the outer pad slightly touching the rotor. Any suggestions?

If the pads are touching the rotor a little bit before you have lowered the truck, put the wheels on, tightened the lugs, and seated the pads.... don't worry.

One of two things things could be happening... 1. the pads may not be completely and evenly seated in the caliper, or 2. the rotor may not be completely and evenly seated on the hub. Once you've got it fully installed, take a drive and use the brakes, then jack up the side that's making noise until the tire is off the ground and give it a spin. If the pad is still rubbing the rotor without the brakes applied, the pistons in the caliper may be dragging a little, resulting in the pads not disengaging from the rotors.

 

[Triumphdog]

thanks BFAD

 

[Dmart_808]

NICE POST!

ive just ordered all the goodies to do my brakes also,:girl:

i got the 16" weld sidewinders, will let yall know if these rims are 231 friendly.

cant wait for it to come in:hungry:

 

[IanB]

From looking on Toyodiy.com, it appears the 13WL calipers may have been used on Sequoia's as well, has anyone confirmed this? There's an '06 Sequoia at a local wrecker, and it's damn cold out, so I don't want to waste my time and freeze my fingers if they aren't the right ones, hoping someone knew for sure.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Ian, that's a good question, but I'm not sure of the answer. Anyone else?

The stamping on the caliper is visible without even having to take the wheel off. Just go stick your head under the truck, have a look, and let us know.

Worst case scenario, they use the 13WG instead, which would probably work too. (See page 1 for a picture of the 13WG and a comparison of it VS. the 13WL)

 

[IanB]

I went down today and checked it out, 2006 Sequoia, 13WL calipers! So here's another source for guys looking for these. This wasn't at a public wrecker, so I have to wait till they process the vehicle, but I'm gonna grab these for sure.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I must have missed this earlier, but I grabbed mine off a Sequoia 06. 13WL calipers. I think both the Tundra and Sequoia both got 13WL calipers for years 04-06.

 

[Dmart_808]

yoo bigfish! i have 16" weld sidewinders, and they fit perfectly with the 231
just got it done today, took awhile being my first brake job but went smooothly thanks to the info provided. THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart :thumb3:

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Dmart 808, thanks for the update on the wheels, I added them to the "DO FIT" list on page 1. :thumb3:

 

[Bearded Cabbage]

where are you guys buying OEM rotors and pads?

Thanks

 

[99runnerwa]

Thanks for all the good info, you made it a breeze for me to buy the parts and swap everything out! Brakes are much more powerful, even with a TJM T-15 and winch on the front I can lock the brakes on pavement.

I did have a little rubbing on the outside of the caliper against the rim but it was solved by grinding the caliper just a little. I have the stock SR5 rims on a 99. Everything else was very straightforward. Thank you again for posting all of your findings!

Did your 99 have the 15" Ecko wheels on it? I replaced my stock 15 inch weels with pro comp 8069 15x8 with 3.75" back spacing. I am guessing that my wheels wont fit over the calipers.
Any one know if the 99 SR5 came with smaller brakes than other 4runners since they came with optional 15"wheels?

 

[4eyes]

Has anyone done this upgrade on a 2002 with stock "flower" wheels? If so, do the stock wheels clear the upgrade? I am about to order the parts, and I just wanted to double check.


****Found out from another site that they will fit with no issues.****

 

[4-Ripcord]

BTW bigfish, regarding that vibe I mentioned when I first did the upgrade. It went away after bedding. Everything has been working perfectly since then.

Just thought I should clarify that.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Right on. I know I used your anecdotal evidence to kind of steer people away from the NAPA rotors.. I'll find a way to clarify that part of the post.

EDIT: done!

 

[4Running Daily]

Where's a list of rims that will fit 199mm w/o wheel spacers or grinding?

 

[Drcoffee]

I'm in the process of doing this upgrade as we speak. After running into a few snags I'm at a resting point (aka. Napa sold me a caliper with a cross threaded brake line inlet). Also, anyone find that their new pads on the outside are touching the rotor? When I spin the wheel (slowly) I noticed the outer pad slightly touching the rotor. Any suggestions?

I realize this is an older post but if once you put the new rotors on and know they are seated flush on the hub; with the wheel installed, press the brake pedal to align the pads, then give the wheel a spin by hand. If you do not hear a consistent sound of slight pad contact or if its quiet and rubs and quiet and rubs while it turns, the rotor is warped and needs resurfacing. Even new rotors come warped. Don't believe the marketing. If you want wobble free brakes, get the rotors cut before installing.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

So now you're recommending that when installing NEW rotors, people should have them turned prior to installing?

:ybrick:

Your incompetence & the misinformation you posted with regard to the rear axle seal job was amusing, but it's becoming pretty evident now that you have no idea what you are talking about. Every repair job you have attempted since joining the forum has become a fiasco.

Again, I will ask that you please do not post incorrect/misleading information in these write-ups. If you don't like my write-ups, feel free to do your own and see how well they are recieved. I have a feeling that you won't like the feedback you get.