Hard wire for dash cam, wireless charger

khalid74120021

New member
Hey everyone,

I would like to do a stealth install of my dash cam and need some help with how to do a clean install hiding all the wires and tapping into fuses. Right now I have wires running all over the place.


The dash cam is charged via mini-usb
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The car mount is charged via micro-usb
https://smile.amazon.com/iOttie-Wireless-Samsung-Enabled-Devices/dp/B06Y34XQRH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527269372&sr=8-2&keywords=iottie+itap


So here is the list of things I think I need to hardwire the dash cam to the ignition fuse.

wire kit
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077C1HTPK/?coliid=I1MSJBJGHIFSFO&colid=F8T1LGPPF5PD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Fuse tap
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K17A2E6/?coliid=I25ALCP87WAQ4Y&colid=F8T1LGPPF5PD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Am i missing anything else I need to hard wire the dash cam?

Also, does anyone know of a kit that will allow me to hardwire my dash cam and my wireless charger to a single fuse tap? I'd really like to do both hardwired and wires tucked away so nothing is connected to my cigarette outlet.
 

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Can't you just run the wireless charger to the 12v outlet in the center console?

I can and most likely will do that for the wireless charger.

However, I am more worried making sure I got the right parts to do a hardwire install for the dash cam and tapping to the ignition fuse.
 
Am i missing anything else I need to hard wire the dash cam?

Also, does anyone know of a kit that will allow me to hardwire my dash cam and my wireless charger to a single fuse tap? I'd really like to do both hardwired and wires tucked away so nothing is connected to my cigarette outlet.

You can put the wireless charger on the same fuse tap, you would just need to get a micro USB hardwire kit instead of mini
 
Good timing. I just installed a 12v tap for my dashcam yesterday. I used an "Inviscord" that plugs into the rear view mirror's molex connector (the mirror's power is switched to the ignition).

It's a little spendy at $24 for a usb power cord, but the build quality, ease of install, zero splices, solders or cuts to factory wiring made it an easy choice for me. Took about 5 minutes to install.

Invisicord Products
 
Good timing. I just installed a 12v tap for my dashcam yesterday. I used an "Inviscord" that plugs into the rear view mirror's molex connector (the mirror's power is switched to the ignition).

It's a little spendy at $24 for a usb power cord, but the build quality, ease of install, zero splices, solders or cuts to factory wiring made it an easy choice for me. Took about 5 minutes to install.

Invisicord Products

This is awesome and even better than running a wire to the fuse. The cost is about the same going the fuse method.

Few questions,

So in the picture you can see that I have a radar detector tapped into the rear view mirror already.
Do you know if the rear view mirror has enough power for both the radar detector and the dash cam?

So all I need to buy is just this Inviscord in mini usb? I don’t need anything else?

Should I buy the non-fuse Inviscord or the 2 amp fuse Inviscord version?
 
Good timing. I just installed a 12v tap for my dashcam yesterday. I used an "Inviscord" that plugs into the rear view mirror's molex connector (the mirror's power is switched to the ignition).

It's a little spendy at $24 for a usb power cord, but the build quality, ease of install, zero splices, solders or cuts to factory wiring made it an easy choice for me. Took about 5 minutes to install.

Invisicord Products

I am an electrical novice, do you by chance have a picture of how you connected this to the molex connector?

Thank you
 
Good timing. I just installed a 12v tap for my dashcam yesterday. I used an "Inviscord" that plugs into the rear view mirror's molex connector (the mirror's power is switched to the ignition).

It's a little spendy at $24 for a usb power cord, but the build quality, ease of install, zero splices, solders or cuts to factory wiring made it an easy choice for me. Took about 5 minutes to install.

Invisicord Products

can you link the cam you went with and show pic please??
 
Good timing. I just installed a 12v tap for my dashcam yesterday. I used an "Inviscord" that plugs into the rear view mirror's molex connector (the mirror's power is switched to the ignition).

It's a little spendy at $24 for a usb power cord, but the build quality, ease of install, zero splices, solders or cuts to factory wiring made it an easy choice for me. Took about 5 minutes to install.

Invisicord Products

Would you happen to have a whole picture of the cord you purchased? So, you just connect it to your dashcam and it plugs into the rearview?
 
Subbed. I’m interested in where this convo is headed, as I’ll be installing my dash cam and probably a radar detector soon.

look at my picture for how I dealt with the radar detector.

I bought this to tap into the power mirror for a clean install
Power Tap for Mirror

Instead of paying $100 for a blendmount, i went to a local bike shop and asked if they had a bike reflector I could have. It's the part that goes around the bike seat pipe and holds the red reflector. The 4runner rear view mirror is almost the same diameter so it works. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the 4runner mirror connector.

Here is a kit you can buy for the deflector kit
Bike Deflector

This setup has held the radar detector almost a year during long trips, off-roading where there is a lot of movement side to side and it cost me around $20 for everything.
 
This is awesome and even better than running a wire to the fuse. The cost is about the same going the fuse method.

Few questions,

So in the picture you can see that I have a radar detector tapped into the rear view mirror already.
Do you know if the rear view mirror has enough power for both the radar detector and the dash cam?

So all I need to buy is just this Inviscord in mini usb? I don’t need anything else?

Should I buy the non-fuse Inviscord or the 2 amp fuse Inviscord version?

I doubt a mirror tap can supply the amperage to drive both. The mirror's power is switched to the ignition, so I'd tread lightly. It'd be a real pain to pop ignition fuses. Murphy's Law says it'll always happen at a bad time. Check the specs of your camera and radar (hopefully on a sticker on the underside). If the combined draw is over 1 amp, you'll likely pop fuses pretty regularly.

All you need to buy is the Invisicord. I opted for the cord with the in-line fuse option, just in case I ever wanted to use it somewhere else. Better to have a sacrificial fuse than not.

I'm using a Mobius Action Camera as my dash cam. I have a second one mounted to the headliner at the rear, too. Love them.

I'll take a few pictures of the Inviscord in a moment and update this thread. Standby
 
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Would you happen to have a whole picture of the cord you purchased? So, you just connect it to your dashcam and it plugs into the rearview?

I didn't take a picture of the whole cord before installing. There ain't much to it. Just a thin black wire with USB on one side and two tiny bare metal pins on the other. There's a small brick in the middle of the cord where it steps down from 12v to 5v. I ziptied that to the mirror stem. All you have to do is push the pins into the back of the mirror and disco.

Invisicord - Album on Imgur

The first picture in that album shows the Invisicord pins pushed into the Molex connector. The pins go in the same slot as the factory wiring. They are smaller than the factory pins on purpose. They slide right on top of the power and ground wire for the mirror. They do not "click" into place, and there's nothing to hold them in except very light friction. I used a couple of small black zipties in strategic places to keep them held in place and ensure I don't have any slack dangling in my cabling.
 
look at my picture for how I dealt with the radar detector.

I bought this to tap into the power mirror for a clean install
Power Tap for Mirror

Instead of paying $100 for a blendmount, i went to a local bike shop and asked if they had a bike reflector I could have. It's the part that goes around the bike seat pipe and holds the red reflector. The 4runner rear view mirror is almost the same diameter so it works. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the 4runner mirror connector.

Here is a kit you can buy for the deflector kit
Bike Deflector

This setup has held the radar detector almost a year during long trips, off-roading where there is a lot of movement side to side and it cost me around $20 for everything.


I like your bike reflector idea, btw. I may do something very similar. I'm installing a grab handle on the driver's side A pillar (to match the passenger side). I might mount my OBDII monitor (old andoid phone running Torque) to the handle instead of the lower corner of the windshield. Bike tube hardware is a great idea! Plenty of inexpensive options, thanks!
 
I doubt a mirror tap can supply the amperage to drive both. The mirror's power is switched to the ignition, so I'd tread lightly. It'd be a real pain to pop ignition fuses. Murphy's Law says it'll always happen at a bad time. Check the specs of your camera and radar (hopefully on a sticker on the underside). If the combined draw is over 1 amp, you'll likely pop fuses pretty regularly.

All you need to buy is the Invisicord. I opted for the cord with the in-line fuse option, just in case I ever wanted to use it somewhere else. Better to have a sacrificial fuse than not.

I'm using a Mobius Action Camera as my dash cam. I have a second one mounted to the headliner at the rear, too. Love them.

I'll take a few pictures of the Inviscord in a moment and update this thread. Standby

I looked at the manuals for both the dash cam and radar detector as neither state power requirements on the devices themselves.

The dash cam is DC 5V/1A-2A via Mini USB and the radar is DC 11.0 to 16.0 V.

I know nothing about electrical systems. Since the dash cam states 1A-2A, i'm guessing it's more than 1 amp, is that a correct assumption?
 

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