Has anyone had problems fully charging an AGM battery?

How do these plug-in fuse adapters work? Do they present a false low voltage to the sensing wire of the alternator to force it think it's not providing enough voltage?

Yes that's exactly how they work.

The only other ill effects I could think of are higher alternator temps (may reduce lifespan), higher battery charging temps (shouldn't matter much), and a slight decrease in fuel economy from increased alternator demand (I don't drive this thing for fuel economy). My starter AGM shows up today and fuse/diode shows up end of next week. I'll report back with some before/after voltage readings.
 
Yes that's exactly how they work.

The only other ill effects I could think of are higher alternator temps (may reduce lifespan), higher battery charging temps (shouldn't matter much), and a slight decrease in fuel economy from increased alternator demand (I don't drive this thing for fuel economy). My starter AGM shows up today and fuse/diode shows up end of next week. I'll report back with some before/after voltage readings.
I have not noticed any drop in MPG's since installing my Odyssey and fuse thingy. I drive a LOT and have pretty much hovered around 16.8 mpg. If it's pure freeway and I keep it at 75 or below I can get close to 21 mpg. The heavier battery and fuse have not had any effect on that.
 
My 08 4Runner with 135k miles on the original alternator with a 2.5 year old X2 AGM battery has never once been topped off. I listen to music for 6 hours, sit with my LED lights on for hours and it may drop to 11.9-12v. Starts right up and fully charges in 30-45 minutes of driving.

Actually after reading this thread I was curious, listed to music for 6 hours while building my daughter's tree house. Drive home 30 minutes. Let truck sit for 30 minutes while I ate dinner. Got my AGM smart charger hooked it up and it said it was 98% at 12.75v. No top off needed.
 
Ebay seller of the add-a-fuse thing with a diode works great. Warm low idle (no AC) was 13.2V before install, 13.6V after diode install. Cold higher idle (with AC) was 14.1 before install, 14.5V after diode install. I'll take the .4V bump to help charge the two AGM's. Seemed to crank over faster today after a few short trips with the diode installed yesterday.
 
I run into this on a DAILY basis with my Toyota customers.

Usually wanting a dual battery system, which I promptly talk them out of, because it's easier to maintain one battery with our vehicles.

The first problem to overcome is the alternator voltage. Solved by using any one of the VS Booster devices found in the links in this thread. They are essentially diodes (which is why you get the Battery light on the dash if you install them the wrong direction) that reduce the voltage on the computers Voltage Sense wire coming from the alternator, tricking it into thinking it needs just a wee-bit more out of the Alternator.

The second problem to overcome is basic understanding of how batteries charge/refill capacity. The bottom line is TIME. If your battery rests at 12.9 and gets drained to 12.0-11.9, it is essentially dead in terms of capacity. Is it enough to voltage to still start your vehicle? Yes. But in terms of running the fridge or accessories for another night? NOPE, dead.

To bring that battery back from "dead" is going to take about 12-14 hours drive time if you're using the just alternator, even with the VS Booster. My opinion is that is what most of the people in this thread are experiencing; Just not enough drive time coupled with the low alternator output.

I don't run most of my accessories, including my fridge, when I'm not camping. So my daily draws are pretty low. I DO have the VS booster (mine is from Dirty Parts, but I like the HKB ones better; they fit in more vehicles because they consume only the space of a fuse), and I have no problem keeping my battery at 100% on a regular basis.

AGM batteries are awesome power horses, but if you're not running a ton of things like camp lights in the evening, or a fridge overnight, it's not worth the expense of just having it. On the flip side, even three or four of those Blue Sea USB ports drawing constant power are enough to put a good drain on a stock battery overnight, so pick your needs carefully.

When I'm camping, my 100W Renogy Solar Suitcase is my PRIMARY power source. It provides more amps into my battery than my fridge/camping accessories use all day, so the extra energy from the solar panel keeps the battery topped off all day long, because in reality, all I care about is being able to carry my fridge at 35°-40° through the night and still be able to start the truck in the morning.

I typically lose 5% to 15% capacity overnight depending on fridge setting/ambient temps. So by 10AM the next day, my panel has the battery topped off again.

AGM batteries have no issue with deep draws taking them from 13.0 volts to 12.0 volts, but what they require in between is a charge back up to 100% EVERY TIME. Doing this, having a battery that lasts for 8+ years is easy.

By the way, I saw some questions asking how to tell capacity: CTEK makes a great product called the Battery Sense (Not recommended for flooded cell batteries), it connects to your phone via Bluetooth, and will send notifications to your phone when the battery needs attention. It will show you, with a graph, how much capacity is left in your battery. They're about $50. You don't have to buy them from me, but please don't buy them on Amazon: There are a lot of sellers on there selling broken/old units. CTEK has made updates to the product, and many of the Amazon sellers are still selling old stock. You can read about how CTEK themselves are dealing with this: BY VOIDING WARRANTIES.
 
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So lets say you "top off" your AGM battery with some other device, let it sit a day or 2, check voltage and it reads 12.55v... is that then a 'dud' battery?

Seems like you guys are saying resting voltage is 12.65 or more? is that right?


Not related but kinda... in the LiPo/RC world it is fast death to the batteries to leave them for extended periods of time at 100% charge.
 
So lets say you "top off" your AGM battery with some other device, let it sit a day or 2, check voltage and it reads 12.55v... is that then a 'dud' battery?

Seems like you guys are saying resting voltage is 12.65 or more? is that right?
A Flooded Cell battery is at max charge, and will rest at 12.6 volts. There are six cells that can carry a maximum of 2.1 volts each.

AGM batteries are different, and can hold more charge. Their resting voltages and capacities vary from brand to brand. I've seen some rest at 12.9, and others at 13.2 volts.

If a battery has been charged on a smart charger, like a CTEK, and I tested the voltage after it had a chance to rest (30mins-1hr), if that battery was not connected to anything and the voltage was now missing say .25 volts a day later, I'd say it's probably dying. If you can't get an AGM battery above 12.6 volts with a good charger, that battery is probably bad too.
 
I have a X2Power AGM battery for about 9 months now. I check my resting voltage after my vehicle sat overnight. It was 12.81-12.82V. From what I have read these batteries are supposed to be 100% charged at 12.80-12.85V (different manufactures state different values). So my alternator is doing a good job at keeping my battery fully charged.

My alternator charges at 14.2 volts for the first 5 to 15 minutes of driving and then drops off to 13.4 to 13.9. According to the information I have read that voltage range is perfectly fine for maintaining the batteries charge (float charge). From what I read you want the higher voltage when you are charging a depleted AGM battery. For daily driving this should not be an issue at all. This is probably more of an issue if running multiple batteries that are used to run electronics for long periods of time.

AGM batteries are awesome power horses, but if you're not running a ton of things like camp lights in the evening, or a fridge overnight, it's not worth the expense of just having it.

AGM batteries are great, I agree 100% with that part but there are other reasons to run AGMs other that what you stated that make them worth the expense. I never run any extra accessory lights for camp equipment. I got my AGM for 2 reasons. 1) It had a better warranty than any other flooded battery I could find and 2) AGM batteries are sealed so they are less prone to acid build up on terminals. I worked at AutoZone during college and about half the vehicles I had to change batteries on had acid corrosion, which made it a pain to deal with. I even dealt with a few that the terminals were so corroded that they had to be replaced. Ive never encountered acid build up on any vehicles with AGM batteries.
 
I can't find any information for what voltage my Northstar / X2 battery should charge at. Where are you guys finding that?

Most AGM batteries want to be charged at 14.4 volts.

Your battery is very similar in design to Odyssey (not *exactly* in design, because Odyssey holds many patents in areas that Northstar (former Odyssey employees) claim to be the same as Odyssey, but if that were true, they'd be violating patents), which means your battery probably wants 14.4 volts at 40 amps.
 
AGM batteries are great, I agree 100% with that part but there are other reasons to run AGMs other that what you stated that make them worth the expense. I never run any extra accessory lights for camp equipment. I got my AGM for 2 reasons. 1) It had a better warranty than any other flooded battery I could find and 2) AGM batteries are sealed so they are less prone to acid build up on terminals. I worked at AutoZone during college and about half the vehicles I had to change batteries on had acid corrosion, which made it a pain to deal with. I even dealt with a few that the terminals were so corroded that they had to be replaced. Ive never encountered acid build up on any vehicles with AGM batteries.

Those are very valid reasons to use an AGM battery, but when one battery is $75, and the AGM's are around $275-$375 and up, some might not find the price difference worth it.

Many folks that I talk to think they need to upgrade the battery and/or go dual battery for things like winches and air compressors. Which is not true. Every winch on the market is designed for single battery implementation, and never intended to run without the engine spinning the alternator. Same with a compressor. Both of those will outpace the recovery rates of a battery without the help of the alternator, and should never be operated without the engine running (dire circumstances excepted, but in those times, you do what you need to do).

But yes, I do not miss the acid corrosion. I just had to do surgery on the cables on my daily driver because the corrosion started climbing up the wire, so I cut off the corroded sections, crimped on some new cables, new terminals, and sprayed them down. Some folks try to use those little corrosion rings, but that's not going to do anything, the oxidizer is the gas escaping from the battery, it's airborne, the rings aren't going to help. Spraying them in a corrosion resistant covering helps quite a bit, but even it fails after a while.
 

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