Headlamp Cover Replacement

4-Legged-Runner

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I am wanting to replace the dulled, scratched headlamp assembly for my 93K mile Sport Edition. Looking around online, found the assembly (at a surprisingly decent price) from Rock Auto.

1. Has anyone replaced this assembly to a like-new condition?
2. Is there a better retailer than Rock Auto?
a. Has anyone had a problem with Rock Auto?

Thanks in advance.

Matt
 

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You're way better off buffing out the factory lamps than you would be putting in aftermarket lamps (assuming you still have oem lamps).
 
I am shocked. It never occurred to me to sand/buff out the OEM lights. I feel like a fool.

A quick YouTube search shows plenty of ways. I was going to go the 1000/1500/2000 grit and wax route. Any other recommendations?
 
I've always used the DA polisher with heavy cut pads/compound and step it down to a finer cut and finally a polish. Keep in mind they'll require more frequent protection (wax or sealant) now that the original top surface has been removed. Or so I've read.
 
I used the 3M headlight restore kit on my old Tacoma. Worked incredibly well. Have you thought about trying that?



I 2nd the 3m kit, used it on our older Honda's which are notorious for crappy cloudy hazy plastic head lamp housings. Works incredibly well.
 
I was going to do the same, buy new lights. I was at Autozone, saw a kit and tried it and was amazed. Just use a wheel and you are good to go.
 
I bought the Turtle Wax headlight kit from Walmart. $10 bucks and doesn't need a power tool. My lights look new.
 
Something like dupli-color perfect match automotive clear coat. I would take the headlights off the truck to do it
 
I'd definitely recommend doing what these guys are saying and using a restore kit. My experience in OE vs aftermarket lamp housings is that OE quality is far superior and restore kits are cheap compared to buying any new housings.

I've tried a few different kits: the 3M kit that you use with a drill, a Rain-X kit that comes with 3 different grit hand sanding pads, a polish and a sealer, but what I've found works best for me for like light hazing is good old Meguiar's PlastX. I've used that stuff for many years on my motorcycle helmet and paintball mask lenses. I'll finish it with the sealer that came in the Rain-X kit. They look brand new afterwards, but as was stated here, it actually becomes a maintanence routine, because I'll have to go back and re-polish them every few months.

For the next go around I was thinking about trying to preserve them with this precut clear protectant film that companies like Husky Liner and Weathertech sell. I think it'd be worth a shot.

I've not actually heard about using wax on the plastic lenses. Does that actually work? Same wax you'd use on your paint? Seems to me that it'd cause worse hazing.
 
The Turtle Wax kit I mentioned earlier in this thread comes with a pad that you wipe over the lenses and it seals them up so they don't yellow again over time. They probably will get dull again...but it'll take a long long time.
 
Well, I finally did my lights using the 3M Kit, purchased for approx. $20 at Wally World.

I do not think I could be much happier with the results. Outstanding for the price.

I had a difficult time finding the product. I was searching the car care section - but here it was in the car repair section (near the Bondo and sand paper).

I did not think my lenses were terribly yellowed - but I took my time. For both lenses start to finish, 90 minutes.

A couple of observations:
1. I used Frog Tape around the lights. May not have been strong enough. Burned through once or twice. A little collateral damage.
2. I was shocked at how much rubbing compound I splashed in the last step. Do not keep your hood up - otherwise you will be cleaning overspray out of every nook and cranny.
3. YouTube 3M and watch the demo online if you are uncomfortable taking a drill to your headlights.

A big thanks to all for suggesting this route.

Here is an after pic:
 

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