Heated seat switch ideas
- Thread starter hrjaw
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schuler317
New member
Easiest route would be to just pick up a bezel from a Limited that has the five switches across.
simple
Senior Member
I use a newer style OEM USB port in those spaces and I used a blank and sliced off the end and glued it to the tip of the USB port to make a filler. It actually looks pretty good. I’ll see if I can add a pic later. Although I feel like your switches are more square.
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0verland
New member
I'd just move the DAC into the center spot and the heater switches on either side. I don't know how much it will help in your situation because I don't know that this hugs the corners of the switches enough to hide it better but just throw a switch guard over it to make it look factory. Personally I'd spring for the steel version, I think it looks cleaner.
Clicky
Clicky
I'd just move the DAC into the center spot and the heater switches on either side. I don't know how much it will help in your situation because I don't know that this hugs the corners of the switches enough to hide it better but just throw a switch guard over it to make it look factory. Personally I'd spring for the steel version, I think it looks cleaner.
Clicky
oh i like that! this may solve my problem.
thanks everyone!
Roger
I use a newer style OEM USB port in those spaces and I used a blank and sliced off the end and glued it to the tip of the USB port to make a filler. It actually looks pretty good. I’ll see if I can add a pic later. Although I feel like your switches are more square.
I may do this along with the overlay. i know i had some blank covers some where.
JVC8790
New member
Link to the steel version? Didn't see it on their site, just various colors of plastic.
it's in the drop down when you look for different versions. If i remember correctly it's a bit pricey - $120 - $130?
JVC8790
New member
Yup, first day back at the office got me, I didn't scroll down further on that menu after seeing all of the plastic options.
Yeah, it's a bit pricey and unless there were other metal pieces in the interior it might just look out of place. I think if you bought the black and then sanded it a bit smoother to get rid of the 3d printing marks it might look better?
Yeah, it's a bit pricey and unless there were other metal pieces in the interior it might just look out of place. I think if you bought the black and then sanded it a bit smoother to get rid of the 3d printing marks it might look better?
that was my plan. i ordered the black plastic. figure i would sand and apply a coating of paint and see how it goes. otherwise i need to find my blanks and somehow modify them to fit the switches I have now and see how that goes.
JVC8790
New member
I'd look at using some filler primer then wet sand it down nicely and then paint + clear coat. You can likely get it to look like the renderings he posts with just some manual labor and sanding.
I'll be ordering one of these when my 4Runner lands in the driveway. I wonder if he has the ability to make little ones for heated seat switches or one big wide one to cover all of them.
I'll be ordering one of these when my 4Runner lands in the driveway. I wonder if he has the ability to make little ones for heated seat switches or one big wide one to cover all of them.
I emailed him this morning to see if he can 3D covers for the switches that I currently have. he makes them for the round switches so that they will fit in the original spot. i will let you know what he says and how much.
Boort
Member
The Guard part is available for download on ThingieVerse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2331558
You could download it and close off the holes in the position of your switches using Shetchup, Meshmixer, OpenSCAD, or one of the online 3d modeling apps.
Boort
Thanks - i will talk to a few friends who have more experience and access to the proper tools to get this done.
Terminator03
New member
If it didn’t come with screws, that sucks, but isn’t the end of the world. It looks to be counter bored for Allen cap crews, which you can easily buy at an Ace hardware. As for the size, I’m not sure because you can’t tell the counter bore diameter from the pics accurately, but I’d guess either #8, or #10 would work. The downside is that you’ll have to get a matching tap to cut the threads for whatever screw size you pick, as they are machine thread, not self tapping. You’ll also have to drill the the holes undersize with the recommended tap drill diameter so you’ll have material to cut the threads into. If I was installing this, I’d choose stainless cap screws as I think they’d make a sharp accent with the guard if done in black.:rockon: Oh, and if you go this route, be careful tightening since the plastic is very thin on the console so the threads will strip out really easy. I’d probably use a little clear silicone caulk as an adhesive under the guard to actually hold it in place, that way the screws become more of a decorative accent.
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Boort
Member
[MENTION=53263]hrjaw[/MENTION]
I can understand why a 3d Printer company would pass on the mods. They are focused on getting the parts to print as provided. They would need quite a bit of info from you to do the mods to the design. which holes to close off, How much to close off the holes at the front, how much at the rear, tapered, curved ...
If you bought the overlay froma 3d printer company then I would not expect it to come with screws, just the 3d printed part. To install you will want to pick up 4 M4 socket cap screws. Not sure what options you have locally for Metric hardware. around here Lowes and the bigger Home Depot's have a minimal selection at high cost. I'd probably pick up a selection like this so you can choose the right length:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hilitchi-180pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B017N7ZI72
Boort
I can understand why a 3d Printer company would pass on the mods. They are focused on getting the parts to print as provided. They would need quite a bit of info from you to do the mods to the design. which holes to close off, How much to close off the holes at the front, how much at the rear, tapered, curved ...
If you bought the overlay froma 3d printer company then I would not expect it to come with screws, just the 3d printed part. To install you will want to pick up 4 M4 socket cap screws. Not sure what options you have locally for Metric hardware. around here Lowes and the bigger Home Depot's have a minimal selection at high cost. I'd probably pick up a selection like this so you can choose the right length:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hilitchi-180pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B017N7ZI72
Boort
