HEAVIEST load towed with 4Runner

Posted this before, but since we are the subject.......
 

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Boat and trailer come in around 5250 lbs.

Pulled this from IN to VA (through KY and WV mountains) no problem. Boat and trailer come in around 5250 lbs. Trailer has disk brakes x 4. I tow almost every weekend without issue. I did add AirLift bags - as seen in pic.
Chris

Rig%20-%204Runner%20and%20Cobalt%20232_zpsplxrs1r2.jpg
~original[/IMG]
 
*This is at my own risk, I do not take any responsibility for anything someone might do with the information I am providing*

Okay, so after reading through all of this and taking all of this new information into consideration, I discovered that the frame on the 4th and 5th gen's are essentially the same. So much so that I was able to mount a 4th gen 7300lbs hitch to my 5th gen with zero modifications, it bolted right up in the factory locations. See the attached pictures. Removal of the rear bumper skin and spare tire is required to access everything. You will need to remove the factory tow hook in addition to the factory hitch to install the new one.

Drawtite 75155 - $155 shipped to my door, came with everything I needed to mount it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNM00K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also plan on adding an additional trans cooler, brake controller, weight distributing hitch/receiver, and rear airbags to help the springs if I experience too much squat. We are moving to a new home this week (1/2 mile down the road) and I plan on renting a 8.5x20' trailer to test out how the 4runner handles it, 7000lbs GVWR. This would be residential streets only, speed limit of 45mph, and flat (no hills).

As far as towing goes, I do have a good amount of experience. My previous 2014 taco I did quite a bit of towing at its limit (6500lbs) and had a great experience with it (6sp manual w/towing pkg) going from Arizona to northern California (over the grape vine). Looking forward to exploring the 4runner's real capabilities.
 

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*This is at my own risk, I do not take any responsibility for anything someone might do with the information I am providing*

Okay, so after reading through all of this and taking all of this new information into consideration, I discovered that the frame on the 4th and 5th gen's are essentially the same. So much so that I was able to mount a 4th gen 7300lbs hitch to my 5th gen with zero modifications, it bolted right up in the factory locations. See the attached pictures. Removal of the rear bumper skin and spare tire is required to access everything. You will need to remove the factory tow hook in addition to the factory hitch to install the new one.

Drawtite 75155 - $155 shipped to my door, came with everything I needed to mount it.
QUOTE]

I really like this and have been curious as the stock hitch seems to be what is holding the 4runner to the 5k rating. The brakes are larger on the 4runner than the Tacoma, the driveline is essentially the same, but with more power. Front suspension is similar, rear is better (arguably), etc.

So, to contribute, i'll add my towing experience from this past weekend. We pulled out of the driveway with around 3500 miles on the 4runner. I've added a trans cooler as well as the airlift bags.

Per air lifts instructions, I measured the height at the back with the trailer unhooked. I filled the airbags to the max (35psi), then attached the trailer and pulled up the CRV. The rear raised about 1" when I filled the bags, then squatted about 1" when the trailer was loaded. I also increased the pressure in the rear tires (still running the stocks) from 32psi up to 40psi to help with the squat of the tires themselves. Loaded up the rest of the 4runner (gf, dog, luggage, etc) and headed out. The ride was firm, but nice and controlled. No wallowing, swaying, etc. If I had more time, I'd have messed with tire pressures and airbag pressures more instead of just leaving them at 35psi. I estimated the trailer weight at around 5500lb (2200 for the car hauler, 3200 for the crv, plus the crap in the CRV).

Impressions? The thing did fantastic. Power was never an issue, it's no speed demon of course, but it competently pulls. 90% of the run was in S4 mode in the trans, about 10% of the highway I was able to shift into S5 and let it go into overdrive then lock the torque converter in 5th. Brakes are fantastic. Not a worry or concern, confident stops. The trailer has surge brakes, drums on all 4 wheels which helped as well. Stability was very good, I believe had to be helped by the airlift setup.

Temps: I monitor temps through the torque app. Coolant never ventured above 190F, mostly maintained 186-188F. Trans pan temp mostly maintained 140-145F. Highest was 157F. No where near a concern, fantastic. Converter temp only reached around 180F max and quickly came down to pan temp when the converter locked. Attention was paid to make sure the torque converter stayed locked as much as possible to keep temps down. I was curious as it appears as though the torque converter does not lock in 3rd?

Fuel mileage: I averaged around 70-72mph, returned about 11.2-13.5mpg. I'm sure I could've done slightly better at a more reasonable speed. Cruise set at 72-75 on the way home (no trailer), I averaged 20-21mpg. All figures are calculated at the pump, not via the on board computer.

Some pics of the setup:

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And just a quick nod to Uhaul. I brought the trailer home to load up the evening before planning to head out. I checked the trailer tire pressure (because I don't trust other people), found all a little low and one tire way low (only had about 15psi in it), then noticed the nail pictured below. I went ahead and filled the tire to see if it was a quick leak, and confirmed it was. Dreading the drama of a call to uhaul, I bit the bullet and was pleasantly surprised. My call was quickly answered, my location was confirmed and I was kept up to date via text messages. They sent a guy from the closest big city (about an hour away) and he showed up, swapped the tire and rim, and was gone in less than 15 minutes. By far, the most hassle free transaction I could've had. I can see if being aggravating if I was stuck alongside the road, but being as it was still in my driveway and I was home? No problem.:clap2:

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I don't tow very often and have never towed with the 4Runner. I have towed with our Tundra and Nissan pick-ups with no issues. Last year when we took our 4Runner on a 4700 mile road trip we did see one scary towing event.

Somewhere near Reno we came up on a Ford Explorer towing a camper with 2 single axles. The left hand rear tire was smoking and getting ready to come apart. Driver was doing about 75. He had no clue. My wife was driving, so I had her catch up and pull along side of the Explorer. We hit the horn and I motioned to the driver pointing back at his trailer. At first he ignored me and then finally looked in his mirror. He finally slowed and pulled over. Got to check your mirrors people!
 
I also plan on adding an additional trans cooler, brake controller, weight distributing hitch/receiver, and rear airbags to help the springs if I experience too much squat. We are moving to a new home this week (1/2 mile down the road) and I plan on renting a 8.5x20' trailer to test out how the 4runner handles it, 7000lbs GVWR. This would be residential streets only, speed limit of 45mph, and flat (no hills).

For a quick update, it handled the trailer just fine. Loaded it with my 93 mazda rx7 and went on the freeway for a while (I've been considering getting an enclosed for it), did pretty well, be mindful of wind conditions and sway (the only real setback between the tacoma and 4runner is the shorter wheelbase). Keep it to the speed limit. Keep as much of the weight on the axles of the trailer as you can.
 
Also, another thing I'd like to bring up when it comes to towing is load rating on your tires. Can't remember if it was mentioned in this post or not, if it was, I apologize for the redundancy.

I run 10 ply E rated tires on my 4runner. Makes a big difference when towing with sway/lateral movement over a C rated or the OEM tires that come on the trail edition wheels.

Harder thicker rubber and sidewalls. This does add more weight to the wheels and will likely impact MPG to a certain degree, but its definitely worth it over the safety risk IMO.
 
*This is at my own risk, I do not take any responsibility for anything someone might do with the information I am providing*

Okay, so after reading through all of this and taking all of this new information into consideration, I discovered that the frame on the 4th and 5th gen's are essentially the same. So much so that I was able to mount a 4th gen 7300lbs hitch to my 5th gen with zero modifications, it bolted right up in the factory locations. See the attached pictures. Removal of the rear bumper skin and spare tire is required to access everything. You will need to remove the factory tow hook in addition to the factory hitch to install the new one.

Drawtite 75155 - $155 shipped to my door, came with everything I needed to mount it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNM00K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also plan on adding an additional trans cooler, brake controller, weight distributing hitch/receiver, and rear airbags to help the springs if I experience too much squat. We are moving to a new home this week (1/2 mile down the road) and I plan on renting a 8.5x20' trailer to test out how the 4runner handles it, 7000lbs GVWR. This would be residential streets only, speed limit of 45mph, and flat (no hills).

As far as towing goes, I do have a good amount of experience. My previous 2014 taco I did quite a bit of towing at its limit (6500lbs) and had a great experience with it (6sp manual w/towing pkg) going from Arizona to northern California (over the grape vine). Looking forward to exploring the 4runner's real capabilities.

what exactly was the point of all of this, to be able to use a weight distributing hitch?

i ask because it didn't look like you were using a weight distributing hitch in your photos, so i'm not sure why you would go through the trouble
 
what exactly was the point of all of this, to be able to use a weight distributing hitch?

i ask because it didn't look like you were using a weight distributing hitch in your photos, so i'm not sure why you would go through the trouble

The hitch is the primary limiting factor of the 4runner's rated towing capability.

Most, if not all, of the remaining specifications are on par if not better than that of the Tacoma.
 
[MENTION=146469](none)[/MENTION]
But the hitch you bought is only rated for 7300 lbs* if you use a weight distributing hitch that you're not using, so I don't see the advantage without using one

(*technically it's not rated for anything since this is not a design application)

actually, i got curious and didn't see weight distrubution hitches excluded in my owners manual like they are on the 4th gen. Did I miss where it says that you can't use a weight distribution hitch?
 
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Didn't know the weight of this before I hitched to it, it was more of a "yea she'll pull it no prob.":fear:

She did so, very slowly and let off the gas about a mile before each red light.

Google says it's about 3600 lbs.
 

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What are the heaviest trailers people have had experience towing with their 5th gen 4R?

Has anyone towed a trailer close to the 5000lb MAX rating, or even exceeding the 5000lb MAX rating?

Anyone know if the powertrain on the 2010 GX460 includes a transmission oil cooler? Or, for that matter, does the 2010 4Runner have a trans cooler?

I beginning to think that towing a trailer slightly exceeding the MAX rating may not be that much to ask of the new 4Runner. A Highlander is rated to tow 5000lb for heaven's sake.

If the limiting factor is power, I think a conservative driving style and Midwest terrain may more than compensate for the lack of "V8-power"....

So...what have you towed????
I'm pulling a 2200lb cargo trailer with 1500 lbs of camping stuff in it. I've got a 2016 SR5. Towing is fine but i lose speed up hills on the interstate unless i shift out of overdrive. I'm disappointed in how much the rear end drops with the trailer on it. I'm looking for a lift with some stiffer rear springs. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
I'm pulling a 2200lb cargo trailer with 1500 lbs of camping stuff in it. I've got a 2016 SR5. Towing is fine but i lose speed up hills on the interstate unless i shift out of overdrive. I'm disappointed in how much the rear end drops with the trailer on it. I'm looking for a lift with some stiffer rear springs. Anyone have any suggestions?

Three things:

1. With a 500 lb tongue weight, your vehicle should sit level. If not you have too much tongue weight.

2. If you are carrying cargo in the back and tongue weight to boot, you need the simple fix and that's airbags for the rear. Cheap ($100 or so) easy and you don't ruin the ride empty by putting stiff springs back there. Search [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]'s thread for the link to airbags and installation.

3. When towing, use the "S" shift option and shift manually. Much better on the hills.
 
what exactly was the point of all of this, to be able to use a weight distributing hitch?

i ask because it didn't look like you were using a weight distributing hitch in your photos, so i'm not sure why you would go through the trouble

Clearly you haven't done much research. Much less read this whole thread...

The reason the 5th gens are limited to 500/5000lbs is because the hitch is bolted to the rear cross member, not the frame. A frame mounted hitch (like the 6000(without WDH)/7300(with WDH) on the 4th gen, V8 standard, V6 option) in addition to having more contact points is able to better distribute the weight between front and rear, therefore allowing for pulling of a heavier load -- however, this is at your own personal risk. What I have provided is for educational/information purposes only.

Because the frame is essentially identical to the 4th gen, even having the factory threaded holes for mounting of this 4th gen designed hitch, you can utilize a better designed 4th gen hitch, but you take all of the risk if you do something stupid and mess up your truck or kill someone.

if you overload the stock 5th gen hitch, it'll probably bend the cross member, or worse.

But seeing as you comment before reading, I wouldn't recommend you mess with your hitch at all.
 
[MENTION=146469](none)[/MENTION]
But the hitch you bought is only rated for 7300 lbs* if you use a weight distributing hitch that you're not using, so I don't see the advantage without using one

(*technically it's not rated for anything since this is not a design application)

actually, i got curious and didn't see weight distrubution hitches excluded in my owners manual like they are on the 4th gen. Did I miss where it says that you can't use a weight distribution hitch?

Again, I would not (as many on here have echoed) recommend using a WDH on a crossmember mounted hitch (factory 5th gen) you'll just end up bending your crossmember or worse.
 

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