Heavy Duty Tie Rod Ends

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I just got all of the parts today. I went with the Deeza End-Links (same PN's as first post) and Prothane greasable bushings. Same kit really. Total cost is around $127, but I spent $20 on end-link bushings that I don't need (they came with the deeza's).

Now I have to find time to install it this weekend.
 
I just got all of the parts today. I went with the Deeza End-Links (same PN's as first post) and Prothane greasable bushings. Same kit really. Total cost is around $127, but I spent $20 on end-link bushings that I don't need (they came with the deeza's).

Now I have to find time to install it this weekend.


**Install note:

I found that I needed to use my Dremel tool to remove some of the rusted bolts for the Tie Rods; if you run into this to, just run to the Hard Ware Store buy a pack of HD cutting blades for your dremel and saw them in half (10min of cutting each). Otherwise use the correct chuck to keep the tie-rod ends from spinning.
:withstupid:
Also don't spend to much time trying to align the Sway bar bushing bracket *perfectly* its not an exact fit but if you crank it down it will do the job just fine even if it looks 1mm to the left/right.

Let me know what you think of them! :tongue:
 
I'm only 35 miles from you. How do you have so much rust? It all looked pretty good & clean under there when I checked last week. Still, I'll hit it with some liquid wrench stuff the day before.
 
Which links did you use the stacked washers on? Front or Rear?

I finally got around to installing mine front links this afternoon and I didn't have to use any extra washers, everything tightened down fine with an Allen wrench and 3/4" wrench.

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I'm looking for heavier duty adjustable sway bar links for my rig but I have to say, just looking at these compared to the originals; they don't look any stronger or better made.

Is there something about them that the pictures don't convey Talon ? Not bashing your choice in any way, just not seeing the difference is all. They look pretty much the same to me.
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I'm looking for heavier duty adjustable sway bar links for my rig but I have to say, just looking at these compared to the originals; they don't look any stronger or better made.

Is there something about them that the pictures don't convey Talon ? Not bashing your choice in any way, just not seeing the difference is all. They look pretty much the same to me.

It's been a couple of months, but I recall thinking the same thing. The Deezas are greasable, however. I believe the main benefit was from replacing the rubber bushings that came with the end-links with Energy urethane. I think it was $17 shipped from Summit for an 8-pack.
 
the only thing I consider as an upgrade for the front sway bar is its removal. what a waste of cash
Lol thanks for the input, that's very helpful I'm gonna go take them off right now. Wish I'd have thought of that before.


Interesting opinion. Why do you say that? Off-road prowess? How did it handle after you removed yours?

Removing the sway bar allows the front suspension to flex more freely because the sway bar limits the travel and tries to keep the vehicle level by keeping both front wheels at about the droop. In cornering or emergency maneuvers it can prevent extra body roll which can keep the vehicle from rolling over.

With most aftermarket suspensions the coils themselves are stiff enough to decrease body roll enough so that a lot of people don't find sway bars necessary. Because my coilovers are set so low my front suspension isn't stiff enough (IMO) to remove the sway bar. I ran without it for a while when I had the suspension raised and didn't care for it with the amount of highway mileage I put on.

edit- also my GF drives on the highway a lot and I don't trust her with no swaybar.
 
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update

Lol thanks for the input, that's very helpful I'm gonna go take them off right now. Wish I'd have thought of that before.




Removing the sway bar allows the front suspension to flex more freely because the sway bar limits the travel and tries to keep the vehicle level by keeping both front wheels at about the droop. In cornering or emergency maneuvers it can prevent extra body roll which can keep the vehicle from rolling over.

With most aftermarket suspensions the coils themselves are stiff enough to decrease body roll enough so that a lot of people don't find sway bars necessary. Because my coilovers are set so low my front suspension isn't stiff enough (IMO) to remove the sway bar. I ran without it for a while when I had the suspension raised and didn't care for it with the amount of highway mileage I put on.

edit- also my GF drives on the highway a lot and I don't trust her with no swaybar.


Thanks, its all about what you are going for... yes it does allow for more articulation but I do more HWY/then OFF Road so its smart to keep it on there. I have less pull from ruts and less dancing then I would without it the same goes for the Heavy Duty links, its made turning and HWY ride much nicer.

the plus over the OEM links is (hard to tell but the boots are thicker and sturdier/ greasable ends and a little longer then factory allow a slit bit more flex)

the reason for this upgrade in the first place was because my old ones were totally hosed (boots shredded {in pictures}, no grease and lots of squeaks)

all better now and they are still holding up perfectly. money well spent if you do lots of MILES HWY.
 
Thanks, its all about what you are going for... yes it does allow for more articulation but I do more HWY/then OFF Road so its smart to keep it on there. I have less pull from ruts and less dancing then I would without it the same goes for the Heavy Duty links, its made turning and HWY ride much nicer.

the plus over the OEM links is (hard to tell but the boots are thicker and sturdier/ greasable ends and a little longer then factory allow a slit bit more flex)

the reason for this upgrade in the first place was because my old ones were totally hosed (boots shredded {in pictures}, no grease and lots of squeaks)

all better now and they are still holding up perfectly. money well spent if you do lots of MILES HWY.

strange, I also do lots of highway and city driving and never noticed the difference after I took it off. all I notice is that little bit of added articulation on the rare occasion I go offroad
 
strange, I also do lots of highway and city driving and never noticed the difference after I took it off. all I notice is that little bit of added articulation on the rare occasion I go offroad

in regular driving conditions you probably will not notice that much difference bar on or off... remember the bar is for anti-rolling and until you are near roll-over its not gong to be doing much.

Take a sharp turn/ lose control on ice/ get side swiped by another driver and then we can talk about how they differ, performance should be identical if not in these circumstances for which its designed as an aid.

Thanks guys,
 
I would like to see a scientific test with a control and all...anyone wanna roll their 4runner??? LOL


let me know if you do GT, i would like to hear what you think...
 
in regular driving conditions you probably will not notice that much difference bar on or off... remember the bar is for anti-rolling and until you are near roll-over its not gong to be doing much.

Take a sharp turn/ lose control on ice/ get side swiped by another driver and then we can talk about how they differ, performance should be identical if not in these circumstances for which its designed as an aid.

Thanks guys,

haha well I guess I'm good, I dot take sharp turns and no icy roads in louisiana. well maybe like 2 times a year but hey, full time 4wd FTW!
 
haha well I guess I'm good, I dot take sharp turns and no icy roads in louisiana. well maybe like 2 times a year but hey, full time 4wd FTW!

If your the only driver, then I would say go for it... its like having training wheels....its there for the idiots who think they can just make any turn at any angle and any speed HAHA

**save some weight and add some articulation seems like a win win if you can afford to take it out.

Happy Wheeling!
 

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