HELP! ABS light and no AC or windows working

[MadeInMaine]

I installed DIYBri's anytime rear camera dongle last night, did a test, worked great.
Today I went out to the car and my ABS light was on, speedo was out of control, no power to windows, and no fan/AC power either.

I would assume a fuse shorted somewhere.

Any ideas/help? I am going to pull the dongle and hope that it goes back to normal, but I think that is wishful thinking....


HELP!

Thanks again


***** EDIT *******:
Problem solved, check post #14 in this thread.

 

[DannyLlama]

Try to reset the electric system

I don't know about the 4R, but many other toyotas (Scion, Camry, Corolla) allow you to reset the window as well.
Usually, you need to turn the ignition into the "ON" position, Lower the window of each door halfway or more with the power window switch, Then close the window fully with the power window switch, Do not release the switch for at least 2 seconds after the window is fully closed.

or

Check the manual, but I think if you lower the passenger side a bit with the passenger side switch, then raise it back up and hold for like 10 seconds, it resets. Some kind of anti theft safety thing that they put in. See if that works.

 

[MadeInMaine]

Thanks [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]

But the switches on driver and passenger door don't move the windows at all....

 

[The Waco Kid]

Thanks [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]

But the switches on driver and passenger door don't move the windows at all....

Sounds like you blew one of the ECU fuses under the dash. I did this too when I connected a wire I shouldn't have. Make sure you have the correct wires connected to the switch. Make sure your connections are sealed with heat shrink, tape, or both.

Look back a few pages in that thread, and see my post. Sounds exactly the same. The ABS is a bit weird though. Maybe you blew more than 1. I'd just start checking all those fuses under the dash.

 

[MadeInMaine]

Sounds like you blew one of the ECU fuses under the dash.

I'd just start checking all those fuses under the dash.

By under the dash, you mean the fuse box by the parking brake, our left foot?
[MENTION=88820]The Waco Kid[/MENTION]

 

[The Waco Kid]

By under the dash, you mean the fuse box by the parking brake, our left foot?
[MENTION=88820]The Waco Kid[/MENTION]

Yessir.

The little white fuse box.

 

[Skeptopotamus]

I actually also installed the camera dongle and have had some weird things pop up as well. My bluetooth microphone stopped working and the phone pickup/hangup buttons on the steering wheel stopped working. Also the voice activation button stopped. However the mode button on the steering wheel still works.

I just pulled the 30amp fuse, giving it 4 hours to see if it does a factory reset on the radio. If that doesn't work, I will disconnect the NEG battery terminal later in the week.

 

[rigtec]

"...Today I went out to the car and my ABS light was on, speedo was out of control, no power to windows, and no fan/AC power either. I would assume a fuse shorted somewhere..."

HELP!

Hi MadeInMaine,

I believe that your "Main Body ECU Compu network" has lost at least partial power supply; hence the recent warning icons to certain operational accessories... Speed-o-meter, Tach, ABS, power windows, A/C system...; These are just a few that you will likely lose when ECU-B is losing a portion of it's memory! Below is what and where to check for the problem. The first two BLUE arrows point to the Engine Room Rly/Fusebox... The short pin needs to be removed and re-inserted to be sure of proper contact; this is not a fuse, but a current carrying buss between partitioned electrical panel sections! And the ECU-B 10A fuse may either be blown or improperly seated, which may also cause a power loss to the ecu memory; Remove, check and replace/re-install accordingly!



The diagram below shows a list of what is supplied by each fuse/Short pin; "See the two RED Arrows which is very likely where the problem lies". There are other fuses that supply the same ECU but these are the most likely candidates for your trouble!



Please be sure to let us know if that was or was not the problem... I'm keeping a log of all MB-ECU trouble on GEN-5 4Runners for future OBDII issues! Best to you!

rig, Cheers

 

[rigtec]

...If you don't find these to be the issue, just remove the NEG battery cable (as stated earlier by [MENTION=143340]Skeptopotamus[/MENTION] ), leave disconnected for a minimum of four full hours and then reconnect. When you try to start the engine, it will start, then shut-down on it's own. Simply restart it and it will run again as it should; this is normal. The loss of your preset radio stations, center accessory panel ill-calibrated compass, and improper time on the clock is an indication that your mission was successfully accomplished...again, let us know!

rig

 

[MadeInMaine]

Thanks everyone,

Ill check stuff out tomorrow and get back to you. A crying baby and tired wife take precedence over the 4runner this evening....

 

[MadeInMaine]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] both the ECU fuse and short pin were ok.

I also pulled the neg cable off the battery overnight to hopefully reset everything... nothing

I am going to go through the interior ECU fuse box, 1 by 1 I think today.

blah....

 

[The Waco Kid]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] both the ECU fuse and short pin were ok.

I also pulled the neg cable off the battery overnight to hopefully reset everything... nothing

I am going to go through the interior ECU fuse box, 1 by 1 I think today.

blah....

Ultimately that's what I had to do as well. I tried using a tester at first, but oddly enough it registered them all as ok. So I ended up pulling them one by one and inspecting the fuse over a flashlight.

Hope you find it soon. It's a crummy feeling that I know all too well.

 

[Skeptopotamus]

Not sure if it is the same type of issue, but I was able to fix my problems today by checking the dongle itself. I apparently hadn't installed it tight enough and it had started to work its way out. I had to push the adapters together much harder than I originally expected. Everything is back to normal now.

 

[MadeInMaine]

Problem Solved

Hey everyone,

sorry I took all day to post up my solution. New baby and tired momma gets first dibs.


So, after the suggestions from above, I went 1 by 1 through the fuses in the ECU fusebox, the interior box by our L knee / foot. Finally I came across the ECU no.2, 10amp, popped....

I snagged a spare 10A, popped her in, good to go.

So to clarify what problems I had (for anyone searching the forum at a later time), my power windows had no power from any switch, my thermometer was not showing up, and my fan/AC controls had no power.

I hope this helps the next time someone does something stupid like I did.

Cheers to everyone who chimed in to help with ideas.

Owen

 

[gm350reratliff]

Hey everyone,

sorry I took all day to post up my solution. New baby and tired momma gets first dibs.


So, after the suggestions from above, I went 1 by 1 through the fuses in the ECU fusebox, the interior box by our L knee / foot. Finally I came across the ECU no.2, 10amp, popped....

I snagged a spare 10A, popped her in, good to go.

So to clarify what problems I had (for anyone searching the forum at a later time), my power windows had no power from any switch, my thermometer was not showing up, and my fan/AC controls had no power.

I hope this helps the next time someone does something stupid like I did.

Cheers to everyone who chimed in to help with ideas.

Owen

So, why exactly did the fuse pop? If it just popped for no reason, something still isn't right.

 

[catrains]

So, why exactly did the fuse pop? If it just popped for no reason, something still isn't right.

my guess is he did this MOD with the battery connected.

 

[MadeInMaine]

So, why exactly did the fuse pop? If it just popped for no reason, something still isn't right.

Thanks [MENTION=32290]gm350reratliff[/MENTION] , kind of a big part that I forgot to put in....

my guess is he did this MOD with the battery connected.

[MENTION=138935]catrains[/MENTION] it pains me to say, thanks for calling me out. You are correct, but that wasn't the problem.


The source of the problem, I believe, was a short.

I did the install with the battery connected, (yes, get your pokes at me, hashbrown rookiemistake), you can all use the "dislike" button now.
But the install went ok, I tested the button and it worked great. But before I could finish the install properly, the wife and baby needed assisted. I basically left the wiring with a temporary connection, i.e. not soldered yet. When I got back in the vehicle the next day, I noticed the wires had pulled off the connection.... which is where I think my problem was, it shorted.

So, moral of the story....

1. don't do any mods when you have a newborn in the house
2. do it properly from start to end, no stopping short half way.
3. even when you make bonehead moves, the forum-fellas got the skills to help bail you out.

Thanks again everyone, and enjoy the laughs and face-to-palm on my expense.

Cheers

 

[catrains]

Thanks [MENTION=32290]gm350reratliff[/MENTION] , kind of a big part that I forgot to put in....



[MENTION=138935]catrains[/MENTION] it pains me to say, thanks for calling me out. You are correct, but that wasn't the problem.


The source of the problem, I believe, was a short.

I did the install with the battery connected, (yes, get your pokes at me, hashbrown rookiemistake), you can all use the "dislike" button now.
But the install went ok, I tested the button and it worked great. But before I could finish the install properly, the wife and baby needed assisted. I basically left the wiring with a temporary connection, i.e. not soldered yet. When I got back in the vehicle the next day, I noticed the wires had pulled off the connection.... which is where I think my problem was, it shorted.

So, moral of the story....

1. don't do any mods when you have a newborn in the house
2. do it properly from start to end, no stopping short half way.
3. even when you make bonehead moves, the forum-fellas got the skills to help bail you out.

Thanks again everyone, and enjoy the laughs and face-to-palm on my expense.

Cheers

the rule is disconnect the negative battery connection before you work on the dash . reason is the air bags as well as fuses can blow or other stuff. it does happen and the air bags are expensive.

 

[MadeInMaine]

the rule is disconnect the negative battery connection before you work on the dash . reason is the air bags as well as fuses can blow or other stuff. it does happen and the air bags are expensive.

Indeed Sir

You know Antman is either laughing his ass off or yelling "rookie" at this screen....

 

[rigtec]

"...So, after the suggestions from above, I went 1 by 1 through the fuses in the ECU fusebox, the interior box by our L knee / foot. Finally I came across the ECU no.2, 10amp, popped... I snagged a spare 10A, popped her in, good to go.

So to clarify what problems I had (for anyone searching the forum at a later time), my power windows had no power from any switch, my thermometer was not showing up, and my fan/AC controls had no power..."

Hi Owen,

Just for my own clarification (and MB-ECU log records)... One of your Main Body ECU Compu Network fuses was blown; specifically the ECU-IG 2 10A fuse blew; causing a series of false I.C. Icon notification warnings to appear, see below:



I'm really glad that you were able to locate the trouble, and in a timely fashion! I'll be keeping this issue in a file labeled... MB ECU w/power loss, Resolved! Thanks for the feedback!

rig