Help, brake pads replaced but bleeding issues.

toy-runner

toy-runner

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So this is the first time I've replaced pads on my 01 4runner. I disconnected the brake line to get the calipers off to change the pads. I knew that I would have to bleed the system to get the brake system working again.

What is the proper way to bleed the system? I've tried bleeding the Master Cyclinder, front right side, then front left side in that order. But still not getting the right brake pressure. Brake pedal is hard with car off, once I turn the car on the brake pedal is soft and after 4 or 5 pumps on the pedal it gets super hard, car is not stopping immediatly, sometimes not at all. I'm not getting any more air out of bleeding but I still think there's air in there. Where is the air? should I even bleed the rears even though they were left untouched?

I've bled brakes from other vehicles that I've own the same way.

Also, as soon as I turn my engine on, there is the beeping noice of the ABS (anti-braking) and the ABS light along with vsc, brake and another, trac I believe.

I don't believe my master cyl. took a dump because it was fine before I did the brake pad swap.

Please point me in the right direction fellas. I'm losing sleep over this. Thanks
 
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If I had to do it again I wouldn't have took the brake lines off. It was my first time doing my runner and I didn't know how the whole brake system looked like. Thanks, I'll check that thread out.
 
the link on that page shows them bleeding the brake system with a TOYOTA Hand-Held Tester, which is something that I don't have. Hmmm, should I re-bleed the brakes, but like I said I don't know where the air is, it seems like solid fluid is coming out everytime I do it. Any suggestions???
 
Yes, I do have ABS. No, I did not let the MC run dry. The fluid was at the low mark when I was done with the repair.
 
I'm new to T4r's but not to brakes. If you removed the calipers and carried them to your work bench then back to the vehicle it is possible that you reversed the orientation. Most calipers are universal fit and can be reinstalled with the bleed valves down as opposed to on the top. If installed with the valve down air will always remain trapped in the upper part of the caliper. You can bleed till your hearts content but the firt time you step on the pedal they will feel mushy and your ABS will detect a fault. Check your orientation and good luck!
 
I cant help you with the bleed issue, but why is "removing the brake line" your first order of thought when changing pads? And why are you not changing the rotors (which can also be changed easily without removing the brake line)? I generally replace them both at the same time?
 
Grezdlitn said:
I'm new to T4r's but not to brakes. If you removed the calipers and carried them to your work bench then back to the vehicle it is possible that you reversed the orientation. Most calipers are universal fit and can be reinstalled with the bleed valves down as opposed to on the top. If installed with the valve down air will always remain trapped in the upper part of the caliper. You can bleed till your hearts content but the firt time you step on the pedal they will feel mushy and your ABS will detect a fault. Check your orientation and good luck!
Click to expand...

Wow, you could be right, now that you mentioned it, I think my front left side's bleed valves are facing downwards.

I did take the calipers off the rotors and had them on the ground while I installed the new brake pads.

I'm gonna have to check as soon as I get home later.

I'll update later.
 
JohnsD90 said:
I cant help you with the bleed issue, but why is "removing the brake line" your first order of thought when changing pads? And why are you not changing the rotors (which can also be changed easily without removing the brake line)? I generally replace them both at the same time?
Click to expand...

As I stated before, it was my first time changing brakes on the runner. I didn't know that I could take off the brake pads without taking the brake lines off. If I had to do it again I wouldn't have taken them off. I'm a newb to the 4runner scene. Just learning everything about the car, and this is a awesome forum to come and get most of my info.

I will update later when I get home, I think Grezdlitn might have a really good explanation as to why I cannot bleed the brakes.
 
Grezdlitn said:
I'm new to T4r's but not to brakes. If you removed the calipers and carried them to your work bench then back to the vehicle it is possible that you reversed the orientation. Most calipers are universal fit and can be reinstalled with the bleed valves down as opposed to on the top. If installed with the valve down air will always remain trapped in the upper part of the caliper. You can bleed till your hearts content but the firt time you step on the pedal they will feel mushy and your ABS will detect a fault. Check your orientation and good luck!
Click to expand...

Wait, but then again. Is it even possible to reversed the orientation on our Toyota 4runners? That means that the brake lines will be facing the opposite side. When I re-installed the brake lines it was facing the same way as when I took them off?

I started with the front left side, put everything back together and then started with the front right.

Can somebody clarify this???
 
UPDATE: I just done re-bleeding the brakes and still no difference. Somehow I feel like there is still air in the system.

My calipers are fine because the bleeders are in the right position.

My Master Cylinder was fine before I did the repair could it be that it coincidently went bad on me???

Still hearing the buzz from where the master cylinder is at, and vsc off, vsc, brake and abs light is still on???

I know there's been some of you guys who've had this problem. I really DO NOT want to take the car to the stealership.

HELP!
 
Try activating the ABS and then bleeding the brakes immediately afterwards. It worked for my friend, but your experience may vary.

Find a gravel road or any road with loose traction and slam on your brakes to activate ABS.
 
I do feel where your coming from as i am in the middle of a ***** brake job, first i bought the wrong rotors, then thr the calipers were bad, and now i am waiting on a new brake line. I too am concerned about which way the pads go, but LINY told me squeakers go on the inside, so i did that, i still havent driven it to see if i did it right as im still waiting for my brake line to come in.

You could always go on autoanything and buy the stainless steel brake lines for $50 for the front and see if that solves it.
 
Loyal Toyota said:
Try activating the ABS and then bleeding the brakes immediately afterwards. It worked for my friend, but your experience may vary.

Find a gravel road or any road with loose traction and slam on your brakes to activate ABS.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did do that yesterday before I bled the brakes. There was a dirt road down the street and I was somewhat drifting with the car. The abs did not kick it. My car was practically sideways on 4 occasions trying to activate it.
 
JohnsD90 said:
I do feel where your coming from as i am in the middle of a ***** brake job, first i bought the wrong rotors, then thr the calipers were bad, and now i am waiting on a new brake line. I too am concerned about which way the pads go, but LINY told me squeakers go on the inside, so i did that, i still havent driven it to see if i did it right as im still waiting for my brake line to come in.

You could always go on autoanything and buy the stainless steel brake lines for $50 for the front and see if that solves it.
Click to expand...

But why would stainless steel brake lines make any difference besides the durability. My stock ones are fine.

So LINY said that the squeakers go on the inside, as of right now the squeakers are on the outside.....HMMmmmmmMM....could that be the problem?

I looked at it over and over again and I don't see any sensers that could prevent it from making the sensers go bad???

Let me get this straight, the squeakers are the pads with the longer end right? I might just have to swap them out.....

Anybody else out there with the same problems???

I need HELP!!!
 
You might have those funky newer master cylinder setup (electronic?) that you have to follow the factory procedure (pumping pedal crazy amount of times while ignition is off/on, etc). Check that out.
 
z4r said:
You might have those funky newer master cylinder setup (electronic?) that you have to follow the factory procedure (pumping pedal crazy amount of times while ignition is off/on, etc). Check that out.
Click to expand...

Yes, as far as I understand, my car is equipped with those newer master cylinder setups.

Again, does anybody know the correct method???
 
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