Help, can't get the AC belt on...
- Thread starter satek
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Amirocassar
New member
I just changed all my belts yesterday as we'll. isn't this the belt with the little pulley between the crank and the AC? Take off the little one then put the belt on and push down with the little pulley to get it back on and bolt it back.
Yea, it's that one. Thanks for the help, but I just put the old one back on. I'm just gonna deal with this later since my alternator belt was the only one that was messed up. This one was at least 2 cm shorter overall, there was just no way back to get it on (I think i may try another brand). I managed to get the power steering and ac belts changed though.
shootmymime
New member
iirc the is no dynamic tensioner on our trucks.
you have a bolt and lock nut holding the alternator, ps pump as static tensioner.
does that make sense?
so did you move them all the way down when you took the old belts off?
I'm not sure what you mean. I was able to replace both the alternator belt and the power steering belt quite easily.
For the AC belt however, I moved that little pulley thing all the way it could go, and even accidentally removed the tension bolt from the pulley (suggesting that I moved it the farthest back to ease the slack it could go).
I think my old belt was fine on the AC belt, I just needed to do the alternator one because it was all cracked. Figured I'd do all three at the same time.
Amirocassar
New member
We'll while I'm here and your here... I changed my timing belt and WP. I'm have a slight one second ticking noise only loud enough to hear when you have the hood up. Is this a sign of too tight belts?
Hi all,
My question is only partially related to the original thread, but it's the best I can do since this forum doesn't seem to let me post new threads...
Anyway, I've the the 3.4L V-6 and need to replace the AC belt, which seems to have snapped.
I'm struggling with the power steering belt.
I loosened the pivot bolt and the set bolt. I can push the power steering pump down and I can see the set bolt move to the end of it's travel. But I still can't get the belt off the pulley! I guess I could prey it off, but all of the videos I saw indicated that the belt should just slide right off. So I'm thinking that I must be doing something wrong.
Out of frustration, I even moved the adjusting bold to both ends of it's travel. Still no joy.
I could take the pump off of it's bracket, but I worry about being able to get it back on once I put the belt back on and apply tension..
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Mike Diehl
'96 4-Runner
240,000+ miles.
My question is only partially related to the original thread, but it's the best I can do since this forum doesn't seem to let me post new threads...
Anyway, I've the the 3.4L V-6 and need to replace the AC belt, which seems to have snapped.
I'm struggling with the power steering belt.
I loosened the pivot bolt and the set bolt. I can push the power steering pump down and I can see the set bolt move to the end of it's travel. But I still can't get the belt off the pulley! I guess I could prey it off, but all of the videos I saw indicated that the belt should just slide right off. So I'm thinking that I must be doing something wrong.
Out of frustration, I even moved the adjusting bold to both ends of it's travel. Still no joy.
I could take the pump off of it's bracket, but I worry about being able to get it back on once I put the belt back on and apply tension..
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Mike Diehl
'96 4-Runner
240,000+ miles.
Devbot
New member
Honestly I'd just cut it off, you'll probably have just as much hassle getting the new one on so might as well skip a step and free up some space to help figure it out. Or are you trying to save the PS belt? Fwiw i was struggling with mine for a while before I realized I was turning the bolt NEXT to the lock nut and was getting nowhere, but if you're able to push it down you must have the right one. Unless perhaps the last owner somehow wiggles an alt belt on there, which is like 1/16th smaller (and boy, does that 1/16th matter)
Last edited:
the correct belts make a big difference, like said above, even the smallest amount smaller can be a big difference.
My last timing belt job I had to really struggle to get the the alt belt off...it was a gates...came on the car......my new timing belt kit came with all the drive belts, they were factory...and all went on with no issues or stuggles.
On another I had to change out a p/s pump and had no issues with belt but I left all bolts just finger tight till I got everything, including belt, back in place.
My last timing belt job I had to really struggle to get the the alt belt off...it was a gates...came on the car......my new timing belt kit came with all the drive belts, they were factory...and all went on with no issues or stuggles.
On another I had to change out a p/s pump and had no issues with belt but I left all bolts just finger tight till I got everything, including belt, back in place.
Last edited:
OK, so I cut off the old belt and the new one slipped on without too much effort. Thanks!
But after driving it for a while, I started hearing what I would describe as a small jackhammer sound when the AC was on. It's intermittent, so I've not been able to hear it while looking under the hood. I did, however, notice that the AC pulley seems to not be balanced. It looks like it's bouncing a little, but the belt doesn't seem to be wobbling.
Any thoughts?
Thanks again.
Mike.
'96 4-Runner
241,000 miles.
Your description sounds like the compressor clutch bearing.
So I've got more work to do....:frusty:
Is this something that can be done with the compressor still on the car? I'd rather not have to recharge the system if I don't have to.
Do I need to schedule time to get this done ASAP? Or can it wait?
Finally, what do I have to do in order to be able to START a new thread on this forum?
Thank again,
Mike.
You need 15 posts before you can start a new thread.
Clutch bearing replacement
Denso 10PA clutch bearing replacement - YouTube
I made this video several years ago but it's still applicable. I don't know if it can be done on the 4Runner leaving it in place.
Denso 10PA clutch bearing replacement - YouTube
I made this video several years ago but it's still applicable. I don't know if it can be done on the 4Runner leaving it in place.
Devbot
New member
10 posts or here longer than a month (I think), whatever comes first
Just posted my issue with the AC belt not fitting even with the idle pully removed completely
Is there a way to get the AC belt on without removing the power steering belt? man that tension pully is not fun to work with in the P/S.
other post here, would appreciate if anyone could chime in
New AC belt doesn't fit...
USe the 890mm belt for AC in this car, fits better than 870mm
Last edited:
Well, the truck ran well and stayed cool for a few months after replacing the belt.
That ended yesterday. I was driving along and it began to squeak. After a short puff of rubber, the belt was gone. I also note that the light on the AC button on the dash wouldn't light.
When I crawled under the truck, I found that I couldn't turn the pulley by hand and the front of the clutch plate was very difficult to turn.
So, the question is:
1. How do I tell if the clutch has failed, or if the compressor has seized?
2. If it's just the clutch, can it be done without removing the pulley?
3. If I have to remove the pulley, will I need a pulley puller? If so, how do I get it in between the radiator?
Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Mike Diehl,
'96 4-Runner
230K+
That ended yesterday. I was driving along and it began to squeak. After a short puff of rubber, the belt was gone. I also note that the light on the AC button on the dash wouldn't light.
When I crawled under the truck, I found that I couldn't turn the pulley by hand and the front of the clutch plate was very difficult to turn.
So, the question is:
1. How do I tell if the clutch has failed, or if the compressor has seized?
2. If it's just the clutch, can it be done without removing the pulley?
3. If I have to remove the pulley, will I need a pulley puller? If so, how do I get it in between the radiator?
Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Mike Diehl,
'96 4-Runner
230K+
Typically when the ac clutch fails it won't break the belt. Try to spin the centermost part of the ac compressor pulley and see if it will turn, then spin the outer part of the ac compressor pulley. If the centermost part doesn't turn or it's very difficult to turn you probably have a seized ac compressor. If it is a seized ac compressor you will want to replace the compressor, receiver/drier, and expansion valve at a minimum. Post up a couple pictures of the compressor pulley from the front and side too.
Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to turn the center of the clutch, but it was hard. I was NOT able to turn the AC pulley. I wasn't able to upload pictures; my phone's pictures were too big for the forum; I'll reduce them later if you really want to see them.
Looks like I'll also have to clean the burnt rubber out of the pulleys...
I have an AC gauge manifold kit and a vacuum pump. But I'm at a loss for any way to capture the refrigerant. Any ideas?
Thanks again,
Mike.
'96 4-Runner
240K+ miles.
To recover the refrigerant you'll need to take it to an automotive shop. From your description it sounds like the compressor has internal damage. You'll need a new compressor/seals/oil and a new receiver/drier at a minimum. If it were me I would replace the expansion valve as well.
