Help diagnose the issue...

p_j_o

p_j_o

New member
So my trusty 2014 4Runner decided to throw me a curve ball on Saturday night and start loudly complaining. I have attached a video of what is happening when the key is in the ignition, in the on position (but vehicle isn't started)
video here

When the hood is open, the item with the red circle around vibrates every couple of seconds - see pics below. Any ideas what that is?
mojT7FMN

imgbox - fast, simple image host
Zu8eWnnC

imgbox - fast, simple image host
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
p_j_o said:
So my trusty 2014 4Runner decided to throw me a curve ball on Saturday night and start loudly complaining. I have attached a video of what is happening when the key is in the ignition, in the on position (but vehicle isn't started)
video here

When the hood is open, the item with the red circle around vibrates every couple of seconds - see pics below. Any ideas what that is?
mojT7FMN

imgbox - fast, simple image host
Zu8eWnnC

imgbox - fast, simple image host
Click to expand...

Check your battery voltage. Should be over 12 volts before you try to start the car. Should not go below 11 volts or so while starting. If the battery voltage dips below 10 volts while starting, you have a bad cell.
 
brake booster pump part number 4707060050. double check it aginst your vin.
edit. [MENTION=104913]p_j_o[/MENTION].
 
We have a 2014 with 330K miles. Back in December we had all the same idiot lights come on while driving in the dark and the head lights slowly dimming. Eventually the dash went dark and we shut it down 4 miles from home. It started, but still had it hauled home. I knew it was the alternator. Ordered a new Denso OEM alternator from Toyota for $326. I installed it and there have been no issues since.
 
fkheath said:
Check your battery voltage. Should be over 12 volts before you try to start the car. Should not go below 11 volts or so while starting. If the battery voltage dips below 10 volts while starting, you have a bad cell.
Click to expand...

Before cranking it = 12.3V
After starting with lights, radio and fan on = 13.80

Does that sound right?
 
spartacus said:
brake booster pump part number 4707060050. double check it aginst your vin.
edit. [MENTION=104913]p_j_o[/MENTION].
Click to expand...

Ouch that's an expensive part... anyway to know if it has gone bad? Would this show up in a scan from ODBII?
 
p_j_o said:
Before cranking it = 12.3V
After starting with lights, radio and fan on = 13.80

Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

That is just OK. The 13.8 is a bit low depending on engine RPM. Should be more like 14.1 or 14.2.

Is there a hum in the AM radio that varies with engine speed? Hum in AM radio is one indication of a bad diode in the alternator, which could also be cause of the slightly low volts with engine running. Most auto parts stores will check your alternator for you.
 
p_j_o said:
Ouch that's an expensive part... anyway to know if it has gone bad? Would this show up in a scan from ODBII?
Click to expand...
I'm with spartacus, based on what's been posted so far. IIRC, Toyota calls it Actuator Assembly and has brake m/c and all the ABS/traction control stuff attached and sold as one expensive unit. Some of the sub assemblies are available, but many of them are near the price (or even more) of the entire unit that Toyota sells. The thing that is buzzing is the ABS accumulator.

What you need to do now is to read the stored codes.

Assuming those point to the m/c, you have an expensive repair on your hands, $1500 USD MSRP, $1200 from online dealers, and you'll need an expensive scan tool or techstream to bleed the replacement.
 
Last edited:
p_j_o said:
Ouch that's an expensive part... anyway to know if it has gone bad? Would this show up in a scan from ODBII?
Click to expand...

If your cel is lit the abs codes will show up with a obd--II and the motor data app with a 4runner add on. Paying the diagnostic fee $125.00 or so at the dealer and get the work order print out from them would be easier. Then you can weigh your options.
 
p_j_o said:
OK, thanks everyone...

I borrowed my neighbors ANCEL AD310 OBDII scanner https://www.anceltech.com/product/detail?id=1067094055466299392 and his VEEPEAK OBDCheck BLE OBDCheck BLE – Veepeak but neither are showing any errors - I am guessing these aren't quite compatible?

Anyone have a better suggestion to possibly read the error code(s)?
Click to expand...
Those are probably only capable of the most basic OBD2 Pxxxx codes. To talk to ABS/VSC/BCM/etc you generally have to spend a few hundred on a stand alone scan tool. The most cost effective way (if you have a laptop) is to search this forum for Techstream and get a cable from eBay for $30 or so. Next cheapest that I know of is something like an xtool a30 from amazon.
 
So thanks everyone for your input...

Finally got an answer, one of my friends has a laptop with Techstream and he came over to hook it up:

DTC Errors: C1252, C1256, C1452

Which basically point to the Brake Booster Pump Assembly needing to be replaced... and the local Toyota Dealership here quoted me a staggering $4926 in parts :censored:
 
Sorry to hear.

You can order the part for just under $1200 USD and 3.1 hours if you want a shop to do it. Sounds like your dealer doesn't want the job. If you want to DIY, techstream will take care of the bleeding process that is the biggest barrier
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 364 (members: 4, guests: 360)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,048
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top