Help!!! filter housing stuck

jahdai42

Member
Looks like whoever changed the oil last over torqued it. The tabs sheered off using the filter tool and now I cant remove it even with an impact hammer.
 
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Looks like whoever changed the oil last over torqued it. The tabs sheered off using the filter tool and now I cant remove it even with an impact hammer.

Buy a new housing before you continue. Chances are it will break even more.
 
If worse comes to worse, you can get yourself a cordless dremel and carefully cut in open and break it out, assuming you have the factory plastic one.

Also spray some penetrant like PB Blaster up around the threads and let it creep in and sit for a few hours or even a day. That could help get those threads loose.
 
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If worse comes to worse, you can get yourself a cordless dremel and carefully cut in open and break it out, assuming you have the factory plastic one.

Also spray some penetrant like PB Blaster up around the threads and let it creep in and sit for a few hours or even a day. That could help get those threads loose.

This. Hit the threads with penetrant. But before attacking with a dremel, first try a persuader.
Get large channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench. Pull slowly, the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds. If the cover breaks apart, use the dremel.
 

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I started doing my own oil changes after the dealer performed the "free" ones. The oil filter housing was very tight when I did the first oil change. I used a cheater pipe on a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 27 mm socket on a Motiv oil filter wrench, which is a high quality forging. If I had not used the 27mm socket, I think the oil filter wrench could have been damaged by the 1/2 inch square drive. I had a new Toyota aluminum filter housing on hand to install.
 
This. Hit the threads with penetrant. But before attacking with a dremel, first try a persuader.
Get large channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench. Pull slowly, the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds. If the cover breaks apart, use the dremel.

Definitely going to try this tomorrow when I'm not so pissed.
 
Personally I would never put antisieze on the threads of the filter canister- many antiseize compounds have particulate metal in them.
The threads are on the engine oil side of the O-ring. They get oiled by default- don't need metal particulate picked up into the oil.
 
Is it hard to replace the factory plastic housing for an aluminum one? I might upgrade to that later.

Just make sure the center tube is the right length, I am pretty sure the part number listed here on the forums has a center tube that is too long, EDIT - it’s the opposite it is too short. It is super easy to swap from your old plastic housing.
 
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The filter only needs hand tightened. I check with torque wrench but never moves after I hand tighten.

you can hand tighten it fully? over the o-ring on the housing? I think I need to see pics of your forearms, mr. hercules, cause thats some grip strength.
 
you can hand tighten it fully? over the o-ring on the housing? I think I need to see pics of your forearms, mr. hercules, cause thats some grip strength.

It’s only 18 ft-lb. I don’t even try to get it as tight as possible. Just lube up the o ring real good and go until it’s tight. I only double check with torque wrench to make sure it the whole way on.
On the oil filter I’d recommend the Toyota one. I’ve had issues with the Doman brand in general. Only thing you need to do is bend the tabs on the center post inside the housing and transfer it to the new one.
 

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