Help!!! filter housing stuck

[HerT4R]

It’s only 18 ft-lb. I don’t even try to get it as tight as possible. Just lube up the o ring real good and go until it’s tight. I only double check with torque wrench to make sure it the whole way on.
On the oil filter I’d recommend the Toyota one. I’ve had issues with the Doman brand in general. Only thing you need to do is bend the tabs on the center post inside the housing and transfer it to the new one.

mine gets too tight to continue by hand without some serious fight so I just start it by hand and then finish it with a tool after it hits the o-ring. My skids dont give me a whole lot of room to fight with the filter so why not use the tool? I always finish with the torque wrench and it tightens down a little before clicking for me. :shrug:


*back to the OP, theres been times when I had to take a large screwdriver and drive it through a metal canister style oil filter because it was overtightened. Idk how that would work with this type of housing, it might just splinter on you and you need to be able to get the plastic threads out, without carefully cutting them with a dremel. let us know what you come up with OP.

 

[17Jetta]

The filter only needs hand tightened. I check with torque wrench but never moves after I hand tighten.

I’m calling BS as well. There’s no f’ing way you can torque anything to 216 inch lbs aka 18 foot lbs with your hands. Nope.

 

[jahdai42]

This. Hit the threads with penetrant. But before attacking with a dremel, first try a persuader.
Get large channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench. Pull slowly, the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds. If the cover breaks apart, use the dremel.

thanks again, worked like a charm. I threaded 36" of black iron pipe on the end and boom. Replaced with the Dorman metal cap.

 

[CavPro]

thanks again, worked like a charm. I threaded 36" of black iron pipe on the end and boom. Replaced with the Dorman metal cap.

Keep an eye on the dorman, plenty of reports here it doesn't seal like the factory aluminum one does.

 

[ElectroBoy]

Just make sure the center tube is the right length, I am pretty sure the part number listed here on the forums has a center tube that is too long, mine was. It is super easy to swap from your old plastic housing.

I believe it’s just the reverse. The plastic Toyota 4R filter housing has a long center tube while the Toyota aluminum one, which fits other models, is shorter. You’ll verify this when you see them side by side.

 

[jrandom]

I believe it’s just the reverse. The plastic Toyota 4R filter housing has a long center tube while the Toyota aluminum one, which fits other models, is shorter. You’ll verify this when you see them side by side.

Thanks for the sanity check, fixed. yeah couldn’t remember exactly, it has been years since I changed it out, I just know it’s wasn’t straight across swap.

 

[TommyG]

A 27mm Craftsman wrench works well with the MotivX oil filter wrench instead of a socket and breaker bar. Assuming you have the skid plate off. It's ~14.5" long.

 

[RichinRidgewood]

This Assenmacher wrench fits completely over the tabs and on the notches.
Its a good design and not some cheap crap made in China that's funding the Red Army like so many wrenches I see people here using that 'eff up the filter housing.

Assenmacher Tool of Boulder, Colorado Toyota Filter Wrench

 

[nb rob]

I also hand tighten mine. Go until the tab lines up. It's quite easy.


I had mine stuck, the tabs ripped off, and the entire thing tore apart as I tried everything to remove it. The threaded part remained.

In the end, I spent hours with an old soldering iron, melting away at the threaded part so that I wouldn't jack the threads up on the metal part of the engine that receives it.

It was a total nightmare. As you can see in the photo.

Now I have a metal housing, I hand tighten, and I have had no issues

 

[Jivewalker]

I also hand tighten mine. Go until the tab lines up. It's quite easy.


I had mine stuck, the tabs ripped off, and the entire thing tore apart as I tried everything to remove it. The threaded part remained.

In the end, I spent hours with an old soldering iron, melting away at the threaded part so that I wouldn't jack the threads up on the metal part of the engine that receives it.

It was a total nightmare. As you can see in the photo.

Now I have a metal housing, I hand tighten, and I have had no issues

Fun day there

 

[ElectroBoy]

I also hand tighten mine. Go until the tab lines up. It's quite easy.


I had mine stuck, the tabs ripped off, and the entire thing tore apart as I tried everything to remove it. The threaded part remained.

In the end, I spent hours with an old soldering iron, melting away at the threaded part so that I wouldn't jack the threads up on the metal part of the engine that receives it.

It was a total nightmare. As you can see in the photo.

Now I have a metal housing, I hand tighten, and I have had no issues

You are a real trooper. I salute you. :yo:

 

[patkelly4370]

And just think. If the tabs on a metal one broke you'd never be able to melt off those same chunks.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[TheNicestGuy24]

Get yourself a Toyota specific filter wrench from Motivx Tools. They work great, and "grab" both the ears on the housing, and the flutes.

That, plus a 27mm socket to turn the filter wrench, and a breaker bar or "cheater" (pipe over a ratchet handle) will take care of tight filter housings.

Read all about it in this article:
Metal Oil Filter Housing Upgrade + Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench

Just a tip from experience, I have the Motivx wrench, it is a great tool and every Toyota owner needs it that does oil changes.

However, even with this tool you can still break the plastic tabs off of the housing if it was overtightened the last time it was put on. I personally snapped one of the tabs off my Camry housing with this tool. That is when I swapped to OEM aluminum.

Not blaming the tool for snapping the housing, it was definitely due to previous overtightening, just letting you know that this tool also won't prevent you from breaking tabs in this scenario.

 

[DougR]

Professional Advice from Charlie's Foreign Car Service

Damaged Oil Filter Housing On Toyota and Lexus - YouTube

 

[N6WRV]

The Motivx oil filter drain tool is also a good idea. Not as messy as that throwaway plastic thing.

Oil Filter Drain Tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines - Motivx Tools

 

[MickyC]

Am I the only one who doesn't bother with the cheap plastic oil filter drain 'tool'?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Am I the only one who doesn't bother with the cheap plastic oil filter drain 'tool'?

I found it to be a giant pain in the a$$. The MotivX drain hose is a much better solution

Oil Filter Drain Tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines - Motivx Tools

 

[CajunMikeR]

I found it to be a giant pain in the a$$. The MotivX drain hose is a much better solution

Agreed. I got the combo filter wrench and drain hose. They make it a fairly easy and clean job.

 

[4RunnerFandango]

When I look up the plastic oil filter assembly housing it looks like it's ballpark $105-$185 for the OEM plastic housing. Does that seem in line with what others have seen? What gives, the metal one is only $40. Does anyone have the actual part number for the correct plastic assembly?

Has anyone tried or have info on how well the plastic aftermarket oil assemblies work?

 

[DougR]

When I look up the plastic oil filter assembly housing it looks like it's ballpark $105-$185 for the OEM plastic housing. Does that seem in line with what others have seen? What gives, the metal one is only $40. Does anyone have the actual part number for the correct plastic assembly?

Has anyone tried or have info on how well the plastic aftermarket oil assemblies work?

PN 15650-38020 costs ~$107 at Camelback Toyota for DIY. The "genuine" oil filter housing on Amazon that costs $105 is made in China, so I will not buy it no matter what the reviews say. I think a genuine part would last a very long time if and only if it is always installed to the correct torque spec on every oil change. Unfortunately, too many techs overtighten it, causing micro cracking and it should be replaced. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-H_rS7mq5c&t=116s