Help! Flange Yoke WELDED to rear end.

[Sokol]

Hello everyone!

My name is Jon, I just purchased a 99 limited 4wd with 168k miles.

Mechanically it is in great shape. There is a little shake in the steering wheel and I thought it was just bad mounts. But upon further inspection I found out the holes didn't match up to the rear end so one of the previous owners just welded them together.

This is my first 4wd vehicle my other two cars were a 92 Volvo wagon and a Saturn ion.

Basically I want to figure out if I can just replace the flange yoke or if I need to go to the extent of replacing or rebuilding the shaft

I can't belive how ridiculous this is, has anyone seen someone do this before? I mean they aren't even decent welds, this is just completely dumb haha.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Unner]

I'm kinda surprised that's holding and you don't have a death wobble at high speeds...

 

[Sokol]

I didn't notice a bad wobble until I got past 70.

When I test drove it I was on a bumpy freeway and I got to 60 so I couldn't even tell.

The weld on the other side is fatter and there is also two out of four bolts in it. [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION]

 

[pauldub]

You can replace just the flange yoke if you can get it off the flange and if you can find one to buy. I think OEM will be you're only option for a replacement yoke. I know there are aftermarket yokes, but you'll probably only find them for 1310 series u-joints.

 

[reelamin]

You can replace just the flange yoke if you can get it off the flange and if you can find one to buy. I think OEM will be you're only option for a replacement yoke. I know there are aftermarket yokes, but you'll probably only find them for 1310 series u-joints.

Grinder...problem solved getting apart. Yep...you will need all new parts. I'm guessing more than one side is not correct. LOL....so hard to check everything....mine the guy thought was a blown head gasket. I knew something was wrong with perfect Anti Freeze...helped lower the price...but he promised it had not one issue. LOL....hose blew...replace it and still going (sans blown radiator just recently) 35K later.

 

[Sokol]

[MENTION=135134]pauldub[/MENTION] [MENTION=119226]reelamin[/MENTION]

Awesome! Thanks for the help fellas.

What could be some possible reasons for the holes not lining up?

 

[reelamin]

[MENTION=135134]pauldub[/MENTION] [MENTION=119226]reelamin[/MENTION]

Awesome! Thanks for the help fellas.

What could be some possible reasons for the holes not lining up?

Could not say exactly...but they must have found some slip joint that fit the splines and cobbled it together. If they did crap like that (used car lot, jimmys back yard garage) they would not have taken the time to take the diff side off. only guess I have. Just don't get in a hurry grinding and try to cut the weld. Most of the time you grind into the good stuff....burn a wheel and grind top down...usually separates well before the base metal...Diff yoke...in your situation. Please keep everyone posted up...so we know what you did and how it worked out.

 

[Harleydoc]

I would unbolt it and see if you can break the weld they don't looked all that well done in the first place then just clean it up and put in some new bolts and go from there. BFH and a cold chisel might help as well


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[nissanh]

Yes, grinder with a small wheel and new bolts (OEM: high tensile) will solve all the issue you are having.

First time in my life seeing something like this. How are the wheel lug nuts? Are they soldered too?

 

[johnbyebye]

What would possess someone to do this? Good grief.

 

[JohnMc]

Aren't the holes in a rectangle shape, not square? This can't really be a case of someone trying to bolt it up 90 degrees off and instead of figuring it out, they 'fixed' it the hard way, can it?

Oy.

 

[hyken]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that where the pinion attaches to? Maybe they tried to re-gear the tail end and then couldn't find the right plate to mount it to. Or just tried to mix and match pinion with ring gear with mounting plate? Any serial numbers that look funky or don't match? That is super weird...

 

[TheDurk]

Aren't the holes in a rectangle shape, not square? This can't really be a case of someone trying to bolt it up 90 degrees off and instead of figuring it out, they 'fixed' it the hard way, can it?

Oy.

TheDurk's Razor (adapted from Hanlon's Razor):

Never attribute to anything else what can be explained by human stupidity.

( [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] : Yeah, I know--ElDurko's Razor)

 

[Sokol]

Going to start out with what [MENTION=81049]Harleydoc[/MENTION] and [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION] said.

Unbolt and try to get it off then if that doesnt work a small grinder and OEM High Tensile bolts.

[MENTION=154475]hyken[/MENTION] I do believe they re geared the rear. When I put it in 4 the back wheels spin faster then the front so I think they actually re geared it lower.

I bought it knowing the 4wd had problems but bc it runs so well I still went for it.

Whoever did all this ridiculousness really has no business even driving a car haha.

Oh and I will check for serial numbers and post them.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Going to start out with what [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION] said.

Small grinder and OEM High Tensile bolts.

[MENTION=154475]hyken[/MENTION] I do believe they re geared the rear. When I put it in 4 the back wheels spin faster then the front so I think they actually re geared it lower.

I bought it knowing the 4wd had problems but bc it runs so well I still went for it.

Whoever did all this ridiculousness really has no business even driving a car haha.

Oh and I will check for serial numbers and post them.

WOW, the hits keep coming. Don't use the 4WD. The PO is obviously a raging idiot. Better go through that thing with a fine tooth comb and find the other dumb stuff the PO did. Good luck.

 

[Sokol]

WOW, the hits keep coming. Don't use the 4WD. The PO is obviously a raging idiot. Better go through that thing with a fine tooth comb and find the other dumb stuff the PO did. Good luck.

Yes haha I feel like an idiot as well for buying it.
I tried the 4wd once to feel it, haven't touched it since and don't plan on using it til it's fixed.

This thing is going to be a money pit haha.

I'll post some pics of the 4r a little later today.

 

[hyken]

This thing is going to be a money pit haha.

Sounds like it! Lol I hate you have a driveline problem, those aren't cheap or easy to fix. Let us know how you get along with it. Subbed to this thread just to see what happens! XD

 

[Sokol]

Sounds like it! Lol I hate you have a driveline problem, those aren't cheap or easy to fix. Let us know how you get along with it. Subbed to this thread just to see what happens! XD

I will keep you all updated on the process. I'm low on funds so there may not be much activity on here for a week or so. At least no solution to my problems for a while haha.

Thanks for the support everybody! So glad I joined this forum

 

[St Runner]

What is your axle code on the door frame? It should read A03A or close to that. Does it have a locker? Did you do a spin test to check the gearing? It sounds like some one tossed in a used one from somewhere, but things did not match up almost like it was not from a 4runner

 

[reelamin]

Holy F$%^ you seriously jumped into it with both feet. Your taking some of the blame as expected. You are going to have some money and time to invest just to get this thing driveable.

If you decide to keep going with it you will learn a lot and be better for it. If you decide to dump it...you have learned a lot and will be better for it. So, in a way you are a WINNER!! LOL...just trying to cheer you up a little.