*** Help!! Had small electrical fire, now nothing works..

[TheDurk]

That's what I'm saying.. After work tomorrow going to swap those out and then start carefully pulling apart all the melted wires and seeing what I need to replace and what not..

I was reacting to the big red thumbs down.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

I was reacting to the big red thumbs down.

Didn't even know that was there haha

 

[seanxgodfrey]

That's GOOD news. Means some hope you can get it running with minor intervention. Fuses are SUPPOSED to blow when sh!t happens.

Replaced the 40 fuse and now it turns on, still no power options though.. lights radio and tail lights work.. time to start replacing some wire i guess.

 

[TheDurk]

Replaced the 40 fuse and now it turns on, still no power options though.. lights radio and tail lights work.. time to start replacing some wire i guess.

Check the 30A POWER fuse top-right of the aux. box by driver's knee. If that is good, swap the POWER relay with another. You may have blown a protection diode.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

Check the 30A POWER fuse top-right of the aux. box by driver's knee. If that is good, swap the POWER relay with another. You may have blown a protection diode.

That was the fuse I initially replaced and then a few days ago I replaced it again but I just checked and it's blown.. Any thoughts?

 

[TheDurk]

That was the fuse I initially replaced and then a few days ago I replaced it again but I just checked and it's blown.. Any thoughts?

Like you said, time to replace wires. Is the module in or out of the system? Try leaving it out when you replace the fuse and see what happens.

Also, pull the POWER relay before you replace the fuse. Then, if fuse does not blow, see if front windows work. THEN replace relay. Report back.

Also look in that bundle for any blue wires with red stripes or white stripes. Fix those if damaged before replacing fuse. Buy 5 or 10 of those 30A fuses.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

Like you said, time to replace wires. Is the module in or out of the system? Try leaving it out when you replace the fuse and see what happens.

Also, pull the POWER relay before you replace the fuse. Then, if fuse does not blow, see if front windows work. THEN replace relay. Report back.

Also look in that bundle for any blue wires with red stripes or white stripes. Fix those if damaged before replacing fuse. Buy 5 or 10 of those 30A fuses.

Noob questions to clear up what you just said haha.. Module as in Security ECU? And power relay to the fuse box (the wires that go directly into the fuse box?) But will do.

 

[TheDurk]

Noob questions to clear up what you just said haha.. Module as in Security ECU? And power relay to the fuse box (the wires that go directly into the fuse box?) But will do.

Yes on module. POWER relay is on backside of aux. fuse box by driver's knee, should be top in right corner. It is a little box and should unplug. It controls about half of the stuff on the POWER fuse, so pulling it is a good way to narrow down where the short is. So pull module, pull relay. Insert fuse. Try door locks. Turn on key. Try door locks. Try windows.

Hopefully some subset here will work and can be ruled out.

I wasn't clear--could you start the engine?

 

[seanxgodfrey]

Yes on module. POWER relay is on backside of aux. fuse box by driver's knee, should be top in right corner. It is a little box and should unplug. It controls about half of the stuff on the POWER fuse, so pulling it is a good way to narrow down where the short is. So pull module, pull relay. Insert fuse. Try door locks. Turn on key. Try door locks. Try windows.

Hopefully some subset here will work and can be ruled out.

I wasn't clear--could you start the engine?

Alright cool, and yes I started it last night and drove it into the garage!

 

[IBallEngineer]

So pull module, pull relay. Insert fuse. Try door locks. Turn on key. Try door locks. Try windows.

Hopefully some subset here will work and can be ruled out.

I wasn't clear--could you start the engine?

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

So just to clarify, leaving the Power relay out rules out or in the window and lock circuits, sort of. The Power window circuits bypass the relay for the front windows but not the rear? WTF

Also the door locks are powered through the Body ECU, which opens up another set of issues, but not yet relevant here.

Just venting, as you were!

opcorn:

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

So just to clarify, leaving the Power relay out rules out or in the window and lock circuits, sort of. The Power window circuits bypass the relay for the front windows but not the rear? WTF

Also the door locks are powered through the Body ECU, which opens up another set of issues, but not yet relevant here.

Just venting, as you were!

opcorn:

Yeah, WTF indeed. Exactly what I thought when I saw that. I think it has to do with the delay function, as you can close front windows for a brief time after the key is turned off. I suspect the rears just disconnect.

My thought is the front windows are probably not at issue as those wires don't go through the fire zone. So if we can get those working with the relay out, then we can concentrate on a smaller search zone (watching too much CNN/MH370 coverage.)

 

[seanxgodfrey]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

So just to clarify, leaving the Power relay out rules out or in the window and lock circuits, sort of. The Power window circuits bypass the relay for the front windows but not the rear? WTF

Also the door locks are powered through the Body ECU, which opens up another set of issues, but not yet relevant here.

Just venting, as you were!

opcorn:

Quick dumb question.. So In order for all this power jazz to work my seat doesn't have to be plugged in right ? Cause my power seat plug is indeed melted and I had to cut it

 

[IBallEngineer]

That is correct, let's leave the seat out of it, for now.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

That is correct, let's leave the seat out of it, for now.

Alright all , sorry busy week. So my tax return came in and my parents said they would help me pay for someone to do it if I did some labor around the house for them within this next month, took it to an awesome place that was recommended by everyone and even our family mechanic.. Now as I was driving yesterday , my 4wd Light won't come on, I was just testing to see if it still worked and I was right..

I have the electric T-case sadly and when I click it on, I hear it trying to switch over, but it doesn't engage at all. Now I can put it in 4-lo and the gearing goes down, but all 4 wheels do not engage at all. Any ideas?

 

[IBallEngineer]

What did the shop do to fix your truck?

 

[TheDurk]

Are you sure it does not engage at all? Or is it possible the T-case is engaging the front shaft, but the ADD system is not engaging the front diff? (Try to engage 4WD, turn off motor, and get under the truck. If you can turn the front shaft by hand, problem is in T-case. If shaft is locked, problem is in ADD system.

If it is the ADD, I have a standard post on diagnosis. Post back and I'll get it for you.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

What did the shop do to fix your truck?

They replaced a good amount of wire on my harness that was affected by the fire in the cabin. Power everything works but now this came up.

Are you sure it does not engage at all? Or is it possible the T-case is engaging the front shaft, but the ADD system is not engaging the front diff? (Try to engage 4WD, turn off motor, and get under the truck. If you can turn the front shaft by hand, problem is in T-case. If shaft is locked, problem is in ADD system.

If it is the ADD, I have a standard post on diagnosis. Post back and I'll get it for you.

Will try this right now, just tried to engage it and disengage , when I had engaged it (or thought it did) I barley hit the gas it started to crawl forward a little and then it sounded like the front left tire locked up..

 

[seanxgodfrey]

Are you sure it does not engage at all? Or is it possible the T-case is engaging the front shaft, but the ADD system is not engaging the front diff? (Try to engage 4WD, turn off motor, and get under the truck. If you can turn the front shaft by hand, problem is in T-case. If shaft is locked, problem is in ADD system.

If it is the ADD, I have a standard post on diagnosis. Post back and I'll get it for you.

Shaft is locked.

 

[believe777_1]

Check you 120 amp fuse under the hood

I recently had an issue where only my flashers and high beams would come on. I talked with the guy who installed my security system and he said to check the 120 amp fuse under the hood. Sure enough, once i figured out how to separate the fuse panel from the fuse housing i was good to go. Actually i will be posting pictures to this forum since others have had the same issue.

 

[TheDurk]

Shaft is locked.

Here you go:

VSV’s/ADD [Does not apply to '01-'02]
Don't guess at it, troubleshoot! Start at the twin VSV's (Vacuum Switching Valves) on the driver fender wall. There are two long vacuum hoses that come up from the diff, one goes to each VSV. Check to see that one of the two hose nipples on the VSV’s has vacuum (engine running, 4WD NOT engaged. If no vacuum either side, check the check valve going to the intake manifold and look for loose hoses or a hole in the reservoir. If there is vacuum going to one hose, then put it in 4WD. See if the vacuum switches to the other hose. If it does, and no 4WD, problem is the diff actuator or the line to the diff. If it does not, then just switch the hoses and you should go into 4WD. This confirms diff is okay. (Mark the hoses first so you know which belongs where!)

OK, switch them back. Then use a test light to see if electrical signal from the TC also switches sides of the VSV. If it does not, problem is the TC, the switch on the TC, or the TC actuator, or its wiring back to the button (last two for non-J shift only). If it does, but the vacuum does not, the problem is the VSV itself.

I start troubleshooting at the VSV's because you can figure out where the trouble is without having to climb under the truck.