Help...Need info on 1.75 lift alignment specs

[GRN285]

I had a bad alignment(prob mach) and gonna get another one done this weekend.
I'm looking for the guys with stock UCA's and bilsteins set at 1.75 with alignment sheets.
I posted my current spec sheet in my album-its bad.

I've searched and found a few at 2.5 or 3" of various brands but none at 1.75.
I want to give the guy some numbers to shoot for with some sort of proof that it is attainable.

Any help would be great!
Thanks!

 

[wfo9]

I had a bad alignment(prob mach) and gonna get another one done this weekend.
I'm looking for the guys with stock UCA's and bilsteins set at 1.75 with alignment sheets.
I posted my current spec sheet in my album-its bad.

I've searched and found a few at 2.5 or 3" of various brands but none at 1.75.
I want to give the guy some numbers to shoot for with some sort of proof that it is attainable.

Any help would be great!
Thanks!

Nothing is going to help from other trucks... The key is getting the caster high enough to make the truck want to track straight. Just tell them

Camber As close to zero while being even on both sides
Caster +4.0 or max that can be obtained
Toe in .18

Tell then not to worry about rub in the front as you will need to push the fender liner forward to eliminate that.

I've taken the following from a statement from Jeremy556 (he pretty much nailed it)

What they will need to do (and most won't listen) is to push the lower ball joint as far forward as possible by pushing the rear cams all the way out and the front cams all the way in. This will max out caster, which is where they should start from. From there, they'll have to re-adjust front AND rear to pull camber back into spec without giving up too much caster.

 

[GRN285]

Nothing is going to help from other trucks... The key is getting the caster high enough to make the truck want to track straight. Just tell them

Camber As close to zero while being even on both sides
Caster +4.0 or max that can be obtained
Toe in .18

Tell then not to worry about rub in the front as you will need to push the fender liner forward to eliminate that.

I've taken the following from a statement from Jeremy556 (he pretty much nailed it)

What they will need to do (and most won't listen) is to push the lower ball joint as far forward as possible by pushing the rear cams all the way out and the front cams all the way in. This will max out caster, which is where they should start from. From there, they'll have to re-adjust front AND rear to pull camber back into spec without giving up too much caster.

I hear ya. I am hoping for 2.5 caster or more with all other in spec.
Otherwise I'll be getting UCA's.....

 

[ToxPath]

I have a 2012 Trail Edition with the front bilstein shocks set at 1.75, and 275 tires. The dealership struggled with the alignment, and I did have to take it back a second time because it was pulling hard to the right (a toe adjustment issue).

The caster is now at 2.9 on the left, and 3.1 on the right. Camber is 0.1 on the left, and 0.6 on the right.

At highway speeds it still wants to drift ever so slightly from one side to the other, the sensation is almost like driving in gusty wind. Its slight and really not noticeable until 65 mph on very straight stretches.

I' also now considering aftermarket UCA's even though the consensus seems to be they are not needed for this amount of lift.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Nothing is going to help from other trucks... The key is getting the caster high enough to make the truck want to track straight. Just tell them

Camber As close to zero while being even on both sides
Caster +4.0 or max that can be obtained
Toe in .18

Tell then not to worry about rub in the front as you will need to push the fender liner forward to eliminate that.

I've taken the following from a statement from Jeremy556 (he pretty much nailed it)

What they will need to do (and most won't listen) is to push the lower ball joint as far forward as possible by pushing the rear cams all the way out and the front cams all the way in. This will max out caster, which is where they should start from. From there, they'll have to re-adjust front AND rear to pull camber back into spec without giving up too much caster.

This pretty much says it all. I would try to keep the camber under zero but no less than -.25°. As much caster as possible while keeping it even on both sides (you won't be close to 4° but its a nice thought). I'd say no more than .20 on toe in.

After the tech gets everything close to that, time for a test drive. Just because you have all the angles where we like them doesn't mean your 4runner will like them. If there is any pulling, drifting, crooked steering wheel, it will have to go back on the rack and make more adjustments accordingly.

 

[GRN285]

I have a 2012 Trail Edition with the front bilstein shocks set at 1.75, and 275 tires. The dealership struggled with the alignment, and I did have to take it back a second time because it was pulling hard to the right (a toe adjustment issue).

The caster is now at 2.9 on the left, and 3.1 on the right. Camber is 0.1 on the left, and 0.6 on the right.

At highway speeds it still wants to drift ever so slightly from one side to the other, the sensation is almost like driving in gusty wind. Its slight and really not noticeable until 65 mph on very straight stretches.

I' also now considering aftermarket UCA's even though the consensus seems to be they are not needed for this amount of lift.

Thank you! This is the info I was looking for. I was hoping to avoid Uca's with a mild lift but I am kinda particular/ocd about truck driving right.

This pretty much says it all. I would try to keep the camber under zero but no less than -.25°. As much caster as possible while keeping it even on both sides (you won't be close to 4° but its a nice thought). I'd say no more than .20 on toe in.

After the tech gets everything close to that, time for a test drive. Just because you have all the angles where we like them doesn't mean your 4runner will like them. If there is any pulling, drifting, crooked steering wheel, it will have to go back on the rack and make more adjustments accordingly.

Thanks for all your input on my issue. As I am writing this I am thinking I will need ucas to be happy in a straight line at 70. However I think I might try to get close to the above specs and see if I like it.

Thanks to all-will post up results

 

[gm350reratliff]

Once you get a "good" alignment drive it for a while to see how you like it. At 1.75" you may not "need" UCAs.

FWIW, I have Camburg UCAs but I could only get around 2.3* of caster but my 5th gen is as stable as ever on the freeway. Much more stable than my 4th gen that has over 4* of caster.

 

[CentcomPete]

I've got Bilsteins set at 1.75 with 275/17s and NO aftermarket UCAs.
The alignment specs are: Caster 2.5/3.0 and Camber .15/.25 and it drives perfect in city and highway. I had an established shop with a great alignment machine and tech do it so I know that makes a huge difference.

 

[GRN285]

Thanks for everyone's input and experiences.
Here's what we went from 2 weeks ago....


Then racked it today....Note the changes from above!


The current alignment on stock UCA's...


Drive's great now!:thumb3:

 

[Stifler]

I've got Bilsteins set at 1.75 with 275/17s and NO aftermarket UCAs.
The alignment specs are: Caster 2.5/3.0 and Camber .15/.25 and it drives perfect in city and highway. I had an established shop with a great alignment machine and tech do it so I know that makes a huge difference.

used the same shop... they knw what they are doing. I am at 2.5" on 265s no issues

 

[Randyman...]

Good alignment shops are indeed hard to come by IMO. Once you find a good one with well maintained equipment and sharp techs, you'll tend to stick with it for the rest of your life

On the Southern outskirts of Houston (Webster), it's "Benson's Wheel Alignment" without a doubt!

 

[The Waco Kid]

Good alignment shops are indeed hard to come by IMO. Once you find a good one with well maintained equipment and sharp techs, you'll tend to stick with it for the rest of your life

On the Southern outskirts of Houston (Webster), it's "Benson's Wheel Alignment" without a doubt!

May have to save this info for later...:fishing:

 

[4OYOTER]

Nothing is going to help from other trucks... The key is getting the caster high enough to make the truck want to track straight. Just tell them

Camber As close to zero while being even on both sides
Caster +4.0 or max that can be obtained
Toe in .18

Tell then not to worry about rub in the front as you will need to push the fender liner forward to eliminate that.

I've taken the following from a statement from Jeremy556 (he pretty much nailed it)

What they will need to do (and most won't listen) is to push the lower ball joint as far forward as possible by pushing the rear cams all the way out and the front cams all the way in. This will max out caster, which is where they should start from. From there, they'll have to re-adjust front AND rear to pull camber back into spec without giving up too much caster.

Sorry to bump an old thread. Just wanted to leave my experience here for others who search this thread in the future. Just installed 5100s at 1.75 with 1" cornfed spacer in back. Just got my alignment done at the Toyota dealer. I asked to please try to get caster as high as possible while trying to keep camber and toe as close to 0 as possible. It took over two hours and the advisor came back saying the techs had a tough time. They did one alignment, test drove, then did another. They state I am maxed out on 1.6 caster. I am very surprised. The main reason I opted to do 1.75" setting instead of 2.5" was because I wanted to have a good alignment and not worry about needing UCAs.

At this point I'm guessing they didn't even touch the front cams (they don't look touched from what I can tell). Should I have to tell a Toyota dealer what Jeremy556 stated above? Or is this just standard practice in the alignment world? I'm trying to decided if it's worth taking back to them and ask for a more experienced tech to take a look. I would go somewhere else in the area, but I haven't been impressed elsewhere either.

Here are the two alignment sheets they gave me in order.

 

[4boer2]

Bump. I just put in a 1.75-2 inch lift and got an alignment done. I thought it was interesting they didn't change the caster at all. Thoughts? Is this number too low to drive safely?