HELP!!!Rear end sway at Highway Speeds

I think I finally got it, I was at witts end and I decided to take the lower control arms off the rear axle and actually inspect them when off of the vehicle. they seemed OK when looking at them on the vehicle. I pulled the first one off and one end had the center bushing partially tearing away from the outer part of the rubber, It actually didnt look that bad but I figured hey I'm looking for a problem and if not totally toast it was at least going bad. I ordered two from Rock auto without looking at the second one. about $55 each. pulled both out and the other side looked to still be in good shape, I wasnt very hopeful. installed them and its working great. 400 miles of driving later it hasnt swayed or wobbled once. My advice is if your struggling with this same problem, pull all four of the control arms off the rear where you can inspect them properly, and replace them if there is any doubt. BTW I was impressed with the arms from Rock Auto, they seemed stout and well built for a fraction of the toyota price.
 
I have the same issue but even at slow speeds I hit a bump the the rear wiggles. I have new 5100's with 906 and two 10mm OME Packers. The front end feels fine. It's just the rear. I had some wiggle prior to the 5100's and packers. Went higher .75" and it's really noticeable. I am lifted 2.75 in rear so it's not crazy high.

I am going to get longer sway links and check for play in the control arm. Maybe those bushings are kaput. Any other ideas gents??

It's funny when I had my son in the truck the wiggle was less noticeable...more weight in vehicle.
 
Update:

Tonight I checked the panhard bar, lower control arm and all the bushings and they were tight and bushings were not rotted. So, I went to the parts store and got 3rd gen front sway links and installed them. So...I went for a drive and the truck was night and day!! I handles so much better. That goofy side to side sway was gone...so far. The sway sits the way it should. I will see how it drives tomorrow going to work.

I wantEd to get this done because I didn't want my wife to drive it like it was. She drives it like her ES330. Just wasn't safe.

So, I just want to tell anybody who is using a rear sway with a lift to replace those links with the longer (front) ones. Hope this helps somebody!
 
Update:

Tonight I checked the panhard bar, lower control arm and all the bushings and they were tight and bushings were not rotted. So, I went to the parts store and got 3rd gen front sway links and installed them. So...I went for a drive and the truck was night and day!! I handles so much better. That goofy side to side sway was gone...so far. The sway sits the way it should. I will see how it drives tomorrow going to work.

I wantEd to get this done because I didn't want my wife to drive it like it was. She drives it like her ES330. Just wasn't safe.

So, I just want to tell anybody who is using a rear sway with a lift to replace those links with the longer (front) ones. Hope this helps somebody!

Am I reading your last statement correctly in that you replaced the rear end links using the longer links meant for the front, and this solved your rear sway problem? I do not have a lift, but have the rear sway problem..have a new suspension that is going to go in, but doubt it will fix the problem reading through this thread... I have new sway bar bushings to put on the rear end as well.

And as of 30 seconds ago, I ordered Energy Suspensions 8.3133 rear control arm bushing kit for $100 which is 8 sets of bushings, 2 for each of the 4 control arms. I would bet that my problem goes away between bushings and suspension...I may even do the bushings first and test it out solely for everyone's knowledge....buuuut since I like my time and don't want to jack the car up extra times I also probably won't do that and so will never know exactly what will fix the problem.
 
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For me the geometry was screwy from the lift. I didn't realize that having Oem links would make such a difference. But I had to be that since the truck drove great prior to lifting it.

There can be so many factors causing sway....bushings, ball joints, control arms...almost endless.
 
I definitely have a wobble problem - 1999 SR5 260k km
came back from hunting last Oct, hit the highway after 60 mi of bush road (3 1 /2 hrs) and got up to 50 mph and couldn't control it
the entire body started a wave pattern and the oscillation just got worse
slowing down below 50mph was OK
mechanic fixed all the broken front suspension bushings, 1 body mount, gas tank just hanging, new shocks and the wobble was still there
finally changed the tires/rims to my winters and the problem is virtually gone
summers are 2 yr old Michelins with ~5k km on them
I just found this thread and checked with my mechanic
mechanic check the panhard bushings on the hoist - says they were OK
definitely lots of rust
is it worth changing the panhard bushings just to see?
if I slide under, should I be able to tell if the bushings are bad, or do I really need to take it apart
if I have to take it apart I might as well order new bushings and change them

mark
 
I just crawled under to have a look
the panhard bushings do not look bad - I can't wiggle anything
the trailing arm bushings look bad - bits of rubber sticking out from under the arm, no shoulder on the bushing, quite a gap between arm & the frame holder
I am assuming that the bushings w/shoulder use to fill most of the gap?
I think the arms could move back & forth at least 1/2" (1/4" gap each side)

looks like I'll replace all 6 bushings

any idea why the difference between my summer & winter tires?

the one thing we noticed and why we put the winter tires on was that when we pushed sideways on the rear, we got quite a bit of play which all seemed to be in the tires - with the winters, very little play
is this just because the sidewalls of the summers are softer & allow more play which allows the wobble to start?

mark
 
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found this link
Death Wobble Cures - How To Fix Death Wobble on Jeep, Dodge, and Ford – KevinsOffroad.com / Overland-Ready.com

when I replace the bushings do I need to press the originals out?

mark

Definitely need to press the old bushings out, here's a good video to help you out:
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

There are lots of good videos by mtbtim@, well worth watching before doing any work yourself.

I had the rear end wobble and the biggest single contributor was the rear lower control arm bushings, if you can move these side to side it means the inner metal sleeve has separated from the rubber bushing and they are shot.

I went with completely new arms from Rokeman - a lot beefier arm and they guarantee the bushings for life. Totally fixed my rear end sway problems on the highway.

Gary
 
i'm trying to keep the cost down
it is 20 yrs old...
here are pics of my bushings

mark
 

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I had the same issue, rear end wiggle. I replaced the lower control arms and it took care of it. I could not tell from looking at them on the vehicle but the bushing were completely worn out.
 
my mechanic is leery of the urethane bushings - squeaking
whiteline supplies grease to alleviate that
I have already sunk $3500 into this & some other problems since the rough road trip in Oct for my 1999
I am definitely looking for the cheapest solution to get rid of the wobble
not sure that replacing the panhard & trailing arm bushings will solve the problem, other bushings may be worn i.e. upper control arm

thoughts?

mark

Toyota replacement prices from mechanic:
lower arm bushings $77x4 (or replacement @$359 ea)
panhard $504
upper arm $282x2

I can get the panhard & lower control arm bushings for CDN$188
 
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my mechanic is leery of the urethane bushings - squeaking
whiteline supplies grease to alleviate that
I have already sunk $3500 into this & some other problems since the rough road trip in Oct for my 1999
I am definitely looking for the cheapest solution to get rid of the wobble
not sure that replacing the panhard & trailing arm bushings will solve the problem, other bushings may be worn i.e. upper control arm

thoughts?

mark

Toyota replacement prices from mechanic:
lower arm bushings $77x4 (or replacement @$359 ea)
panhard $504
upper arm $282x2

I can get the panhard & lower control arm bushings for CDN$188

I used poly bushings in all my rear axle stuff: upper and lower arms and panhard. No squeaks after 2+ years, all is well.
 
ordered the 4 arms from rockauto
ordered bushings for the panhard bar
mechanic is getting new bolts
hopefully all this will fix the 'death' wobble
 
i had finally had time to drop it off at my mechanic

death wobble seems to be fixed (upper & lower rear control arms, new bushings in panhard)

mark
 
Thread lives again!

Well after 210K on my 2002, it finally developed a problem. Noticed a slight fishing tailing on certain parts of the road (same area every time). Changed all 4 shocks and the rear walking became worse. Got lazy and just parked it. This morning my wife commented that we should give the car to my college kid for the summer so resolving this issue became a priority. Did a search and found this thread. So, after reading all comments, found the 2 lower control arm bushings were torn and one could twist the arm with a single hand. Panhard bar, upper control arms and sway bar bushings were solid. Ordered 2 MEVOTECH CMS861170 from RockAuto and will report about repair. Thanks to EVERYONE who contributed to this thread!!!.
 

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