Pretty sure the coils of the heat gun probably get above the autoignition temperature of the highly volatile penetrant. So just be careful.
HELP! Rounded Bolt. Doesn't come out!
- Thread starter d0nkeyxpunch
- Start date
Pretty sure the coils of the heat gun probably get above the autoignition temperature of the highly volatile penetrant. So just be careful.
coinball
New member
Like everyone else has side, heat is your friend. Get a heat gun or a blow torch from HD/Lowe's and get that sucker hot (without burning anything around it). Put some PB blaster on it while it's hot and then get some vice grips on it.
Personally, I'd do the weld a nut onto the stud trick after you cut the head off; it's guaranteed to come out then. I think you can buy a cheap welder at HF for like $110, get a 20% off coupon and go snag one; even if you can't weld worth a damn you'll be able to get the nut to stick to the bolt.
Personally, I'd do the weld a nut onto the stud trick after you cut the head off; it's guaranteed to come out then. I think you can buy a cheap welder at HF for like $110, get a 20% off coupon and go snag one; even if you can't weld worth a damn you'll be able to get the nut to stick to the bolt.
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aeroneer1
New member
After 3-4 rounded bolts on my truck, you have to pull out every tool you got. Which are all stated above.
Heat the entire thing up (male and female) with a torch, then try to pound a 6-point socket that is standard, slightly smaller than the true metric size. Let the whole thing cool down for a couple hours, then heat just the female part and not the bolt. :flame:
Get a breaker bar, and try to use fast, breaking motions.
After the heat, PB blaster, and pounding it to shock the threads, you should only need one partial grab to break it lose.
When you break it lose, give good "HELL YEAH!" and crack a beer as a reward for your hard work. :girl:
Heat the entire thing up (male and female) with a torch, then try to pound a 6-point socket that is standard, slightly smaller than the true metric size. Let the whole thing cool down for a couple hours, then heat just the female part and not the bolt. :flame:
Get a breaker bar, and try to use fast, breaking motions.
After the heat, PB blaster, and pounding it to shock the threads, you should only need one partial grab to break it lose.
When you break it lose, give good "HELL YEAH!" and crack a beer as a reward for your hard work. :girl:
wake_rider
New member
I have had this happen so often on far too many dirtbikes to recall. When a 1 hour job takes an entire day, I begin to get grouchy and impatient.
A welded nut is an easy fix if you have the equipment.
If not, the best thing I've found to use is that cam-esque bolt remover for backing it out if it's not too stuck, but even better is to heat the female end up hot, soak with PB, and do this cycle a few times. After 3 or so rounds of this, small impacts become your best friend. Clean up a new bolt head with a file, then slam on a slightly smaller standard socket, then use an impact wrench to vibrate that thing loose. Vibration/impact, heat, and pb blaster work wonders.
A welded nut is an easy fix if you have the equipment.
If not, the best thing I've found to use is that cam-esque bolt remover for backing it out if it's not too stuck, but even better is to heat the female end up hot, soak with PB, and do this cycle a few times. After 3 or so rounds of this, small impacts become your best friend. Clean up a new bolt head with a file, then slam on a slightly smaller standard socket, then use an impact wrench to vibrate that thing loose. Vibration/impact, heat, and pb blaster work wonders.
d0nkeyxpunch
New member
So I just ended up purchasing a Harbor Freight welder for $99.
This is what I got. Wish me luck. Zero experience in welding but I guess I will learn now.
Anything that I should know? Seems simple enough.
Wire Welder - Save on this 90 Amp Flux Wire Welder
This is what I got. Wish me luck. Zero experience in welding but I guess I will learn now.
Anything that I should know? Seems simple enough.
Wire Welder - Save on this 90 Amp Flux Wire Welder
aeroneer1
New member
Good luck. Make sure to practice on a few other things first if you have never welded anything before. Obviously, don't look at the spark, or get a helmet.
By the way, what the hell is your avatar a picture of ? lol
JeepKiller
New member
Your 4Runner is ruined, just give it to me. Haha in all seriousness though if you've tried everything just take it to a machine shop or a mechanic and see what they can do.
d0nkeyxpunch
New member
Alright I will test it out on few random things. Do you know what Min and Max is used for? Also what wire speed? This comes with a ghetto handheld mask. lol I think I should invest in a decent mask where I dont have to hold it.
My avatar is a guy doing donkey calf raises like this.
:rofl:
My avatar is a guy doing donkey calf raises like this.
:rofl:
kball
New member
Alright I will test it out on few random things. Do you know what Min and Max is used for? Also what wire speed? This comes with a ghetto handheld mask. lol I think I should invest in a decent mask where I dont have to hold it.
My avatar is a guy doing donkey calf raises like this.
Min-Max is the power level I would think. Since you are going to just spot weld the nut on put the wire speed on low and power on max and see how that goes. I have a similar power Campbell Hausfeld welder and power isn't their strong point being just 120v.
Unless you've got someone to help hold the nut you won't be able to hold the mask, welder and nut so you'll need a helmet. HF's auto darkening helmet works great. Use a coupon and it should be under $40
That is exactly what I would do. The only thing else I would do is soak the exposed threads where they enter the spindle. This will aid in removal if the threaded section can not be removed relatively easy with a vice-grip.
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d0nkeyxpunch
New member
I already tried using those and the ones from Craftsman. They all didnt work and made it worse.
