Help w/ Front Differential Fluid Change

[mrrab]

Posted this in the maintenance section as well. Hope to get some thoughts on this...

Today I decided to change out my differential fluids and thought it would be relatively smooth sailing -- nope!

I Decided to tackle the front first. Got the skid plates off, then went to the front differential. Saw the two 10mm hex bolts I needed to loosen. Broke the torque on the filler bolt and thought, gees this is going to be easy. Then went to the drain bolt and couldn't for the life of me break the torque on it. After giving it a few tugs with a cheater bar, I saw the inside of the hex bolt was beginning to warp -- not good! So after this I decided to stop before I did further damage.

So, now I'm wondering if I should go to the store and buy a 10mm hex bit socket or take it to Toyota and ask them if they can break the torque on it. Assuming they could break the torque, I would then buy a new drain plug, preferably one that will accommodation of 1/2" torque wrench.

Oh, I did get the rear done, so that's good...

 

[phancd]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I just did my front, transfer case, and rear. the front definitely was the hardest to break free. Try spraying some pb blaster on it and let it soak for a day. Also, it might be easier when the bolts are heated, so try doing this after you have driven around.

 

[jimithing]

That drain bolt in the front seems to be the one that gives most people trouble. I couldn't get mine out either. Instead of taking it to the dealer I drained as much of the fluid as I could using the fill plug. I bought a $5 pump from Northern Tool and pumped out about 3/4 of the fluid. The only other option besides bringing it to the dealer is welding hex key in place to get it to break free. Of course you'll destroy the hex key and plug so you'll have to buy new ones.

 

[mrrab]

Thanks. Well, I did drive around a little bit before working on it, probably 6 miles or so. After the bolt didn't budge the first few tries, I soaked it with PB Blaster Spray then drained the rear. I then came back to it after maybe 15 minutes with even a big cheater bar, but still no luck.

 

[mrrab]

That drain bolt in the front seems to be the one that gives most people trouble. I couldn't get mine out either. Instead of taking it to the dealer I drained as much of the fluid as I could using the fill plug. I bought a $5 pump from Northern Tool and pumped out about 3/4 of the fluid. The only other option besides bringing it to the dealer is welding hex key in place to get it to break free. Of course you'll destroy the hex key and plug so you'll have to buy new ones.

Perfect!!! Thanks for sharing your experience! I think pumping the fluid out from the filler bolt is the best option.

 

[Ducman]

Drain

The trick is a quick short motion. Don't use a cheater bar. Use a good quality L-shaped hex key and give it a quick tap with a hammer to break it loose.

Or a mentioned pump it out worst case.

 

[<<<<]

Do Not use L-shaped hex wrenches because those made out of cheaper soft carbon steel and tend to round off. Get good 10mm socket hex wrench and rachet handle that way you put most effort in turning while controling axis of rotation (head of socket wrench). Good luck.

 

[mrrab]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was using a high quality "L" shaped Allen wrench, but failed to do the quick shot with a hammer. In hindsight, that probably would have worked the best.

So, what I'm going to do is buy a 10mm hex socket from Auto Zone and go at it again. Also, does anyone know the specs. on the front drain bolt? Wondering if I can get a replacement at Auto Zone, i.e. one that doesn't have a "hex", but a 1/2" insert.

If this doesn't work, then I'm just pumping the fluid out!

 

[Ducman]

Do Not use L-shaped hex wrenches because those made out of cheaper soft carbon steel and tend to round off. Get good 10mm socket hex wrench and rachet handle that way you put most effort in turning while controling axis of rotation (head of socket wrench). Good luck.

We can agree to disagree I guess. As I stated, a quality L key has worked great for me. All of mine are in great shape and none are rounded. There are cheapo ones out there for sure though.

Stick with whatever works for you, just starting what has worked well for me.

 

[03_4x4Runner]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was using a high quality "L" shaped Allen wrench, but failed to do the quick shot with a hammer. In hindsight, that probably would have worked the best.

So, what I'm going to do is buy a 10mm hex socket from Auto Zone and go at it again. Also, does anyone know the specs. on the front drain bolt? Wondering if I can get a replacement at Auto Zone, i.e. one that doesn't have a "hex", but a 1/2" insert.

If this doesn't work, then I'm just pumping the fluid out!

Quality and Auto Zone do not belong in the same sentence. Most of their stuff is junk.

 

[settytb]

Tap on it with a hammer not too hard...straight on...then with your cheater bar have one hand push on it and the other hit the bar with a hammer. It's amazing what a little impact does to help loosten it up. Worth a shot. I have the socket and used a big 1/2 in breaker bar.

 

[Gatafly]

I guarantee this will work for you. Take a hammer and chisel and place the chisel on the edge of the plug so that when you hit it with the hammer it will spin the plug counter clockwise to loosen it. You will be surprised how easy it will break loose and wonder why the hex wrench would not work. This procedure came from my local Toyota 4wd mechanic.

 

[jimithing]

I guarantee this will work for you. Take a hammer and chisel and place the chisel on the edge of the plug so that when you hit it with the hammer it will spin the plug counter clockwise to loosen it. You will be surprised how easy it will break loose and wonder why the hex wrench would not work. This procedure came from my local Toyota 4wd mechanic.

You put the chisel on the outer edge?

 

[mrrab]

I guarantee this will work for you. Take a hammer and chisel and place the chisel on the edge of the plug so that when you hit it with the hammer it will spin the plug counter clockwise to loosen it. You will be surprised how easy it will break loose and wonder why the hex wrench would not work. This procedure came from my local Toyota 4wd mechanic.

Hmm, now I have access to an air chisel. Is a air chisel over kill?

 

[settytb]

I like air chisels and use them whenever possible

 

[Gatafly]

You put the chisel on the outer edge?

Yes. It wont take much of a hit either.

 

[Gatafly]

Hmm, now I have access to an air chisel. Is a air chisel over kill?

YES it is way overkill. Just put chisel on edge and give it a little whack. You should see it move and then you can unscrew it with the hex. You will be able to reuse the plug.

 

[mrrab]

YES it is way overkill. Just put chisel on edge and give it a little whack. You should see it move and then you can unscrew it with the hex. You will be able to reuse the plug.

Okay, thanks. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

 

[mrrab]

So, tried the whole hitting the bolt with a chisel thing and it didn't work out. I then tried to use a bolt extractor with a air drill, but ran into issues with the drill hitting the LCA and not giving me enough room. Plus, I really didn't have a large enough bit to really wrap around the bolt. Didn't want to drill a hole through the bolt only too not be able to remove it. Then I would have really had problems!!!

Royal bad in the arse. Can't believe Toyota has continued this design. Have heard 3rd Gens. have had the same problem.

So, on to the dealer tomorrow. Called them and they said $55 even with the warped bolt... We'll see... Hopefully, they have a good bolt extractor kit...

 

[mrrab]

Dropped the 4Runner off at 1:45 and they called me at 2:40 saying it was done.

WTF, How did they get that bolt out!