HELP Wiring Guide for ARB Dual Compressor

Michael M

Michael M

New member
Good people of T4R.org...

I'm ignorant of wiring and electrical work beyond clipping harnesses together. The ARB supplied installation guide is great unless you have little to no experience with wiring diagrams, multimeters etc.
I've mounted the compressor in the engine bay right in front of the driverside firewall. I've reached page 13 of the ARB CKMTA12 Guide and am holding for additional confidence needed to proceed. To clarify I am not installing with air lockers.

Does anyone know of a video or photo-assisted guide referencing the steps needed past the firewall (on a 5th gen)? It's amazing how many guides exist on how to change a map light bulb but not something as common as this compressor.

I've combed through youtube, other forums as well as this one.

Any help or breakdown of how to simplify the instructions is appreciated.

Am I just overthinking this?

Thanks!
 
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Michael M said:
Good people of T4R.org...

I'm ignorant of wiring and electrical work beyond clipping harnesses together. The ARB supplied installation guide is great unless you have little to no experience with wiring diagrams, multimeters etc.
I've mounted the compressor in the engine bay right in front of the driverside firewall. I've reached page 13 of the ARB CKMTA12 Guide and am holding for additional confidence needed to proceed. To clarify I am not installing with air lockers.

Does anyone know of a video or photo-assisted guide referencing the steps needed past the firewall (on a 5th gen)? It's amazing how many guides exist on how to change a map light bulb but not something as common as this compressor.



I've combed through youtube, other forums as well as this one.

Any help or breakdown of how to simplify the instructions is appreciated.

Am I just overthinking this?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Try this post from MTN4RNR. Seems to be the go-to for the ARB Compressor install.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...iving-adventuring-mtn4rnr-29.html#post2390559
 
Hey, might as well ask here since you probably just got a new ARB twin compressor too. I ordered one from ebay the other day and it sort of looks like mine is used. Does your wiring harness look like this?

y7e225Nl.jpg
 
transistor said:
Hey, might as well ask here since you probably just got a new ARB twin compressor too. I ordered one from ebay the other day and it sort of looks like mine is used. Does your wiring harness look like this?



y7e225Nl.jpg
Click to expand...



Negative.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update

Ok. Gave it a stab and got hung up on interior wiring. For one, I expected the ARB switch to fit into a blank switch bay...do I need to do some cutting to make it fit into one of the blanks left of the steering wheel?

More importantly, I’m not getting any lighting on the switch. I tapped a wire coming from the wiper defroster that I determined was wired to dash lighting as indicated on a voltage meter. No dice. I didn’t connect the battery terminals to the compressor yet. Would I need to in order to get the switch to light up? Wouldn’t expect that.

I very carefully read the wiring manual and think I have everything connected properly. Frustrated.

So remaining questions are:

1) Do I need to connect the supply loom to the battery to see the ARB switch light up?

2) Should I abandon the wiretap and hunt for an alternate wire to tap?

3) Recommendations for fitting the ARB compressor switch into a blank accessory slot.

Here are some images of the critical wiring junctions.

9XmimqP.jpeg

Tapped into the gray wire coming off the wiper defroster.

6EV3jVO.jpeg

Per MTN4RNR's guide, I opted to go with a blade mini add a fuse for the switch. (upside down image)

d5o2bh8.jpeg

Wiring of the isolating switch harness to the ARB compressor switch per wiring diagram

UKSiBKI.jpeg

Connection of switch supply loom to plug-in fitting of isolation switch harness
 
Michael M said:
Ok. Gave it a stab and got hung up on interior wiring. For one, I expected the ARB switch to fit into a blank switch bay...do I need to do some cutting to make it fit into one of the blanks left of the steering wheel?

More importantly, I’m not getting any lighting on the switch. I tapped a wire coming from the wiper defroster that I determined was wired to dash lighting as indicated on a voltage meter. No dice. I didn’t connect the battery terminals to the compressor yet. Would I need to in order to get the switch to light up? Wouldn’t expect that.

I very carefully read the wiring manual and think I have everything connected properly. Frustrated.

So remaining questions are:

1) Do I need to connect the supply loom to the battery to see the ARB switch light up?

2) Should I abandon the wiretap and hunt for an alternate wire to tap?

3) Recommendations for fitting the ARB compressor switch into a blank accessory slot.

Here are some images of the critical wiring junctions.

9XmimqP.jpeg

Tapped into the gray wire coming off the wiper defroster.

6EV3jVO.jpeg

Per MTN4RNR's guide, I opted to go with a blade mini add a fuse for the switch. (upside down image)

d5o2bh8.jpeg

Wiring of the isolating switch harness to the ARB compressor switch per wiring diagram

UKSiBKI.jpeg

Connection of switch supply loom to plug-in fitting of isolation switch harness
Click to expand...

I can help with only a couple of these since I'm no expert and wiring is not my forte. That being said, if you want your switch to light up with the dash lights then you need to tap into the GREEN wire on the wiper warmer switch. That is the wire linked to the dash lighting. I can't speak to whether you need to have the main power on the harness hooked into the battery for the LED in the switch to light up. My assumption is that it does otherwise where does it draw power from for that LED?

Second, it's my understanding that ARB switches don't just slide in to the factory slots without minor adjustments. Here is a thread that talks about that. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/252509-fitting-arb-switches-driver-kick-panel-oops.html

If you wanted a switch that slides in the slot with no adjustments then go with an AOB switch. (This is what I used for my light bar) They look great because they match the other OEM switches.
 
Jay_P said:
I can help with only a couple of these since I'm no expert and wiring is not my forte. That being said, if you want your switch to light up with the dash lights then you need to tap into the GREEN wire on the wiper warmer switch. That is the wire linked to the dash lighting. I can't speak to whether you need to have the main power on the harness hooked into the battery for the LED in the switch to light up. My assumption is that it does otherwise where does it draw power from for that LED?

Second, it's my understanding that ARB switches don't just slide in to the factory slots without minor adjustments. Here is a thread that talks about that. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/252509-fitting-arb-switches-driver-kick-panel-oops.html

If you wanted a switch that slides in the slot with no adjustments then go with an AOB switch. (This is what I used for my light bar) They look great because they match the other OEM switches.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jay for pointing me to the green wire for lighting. I'll give that one a try. After reviewing that link, I'm deciding to go with another AOB switch to keep it plug and play.

I appreciate your help!
 
Still having trouble getting this compressor wiring ironed out. Per Jay_P's recommendation, I tapped the green wire from the windshield wiper heater with positive results, switch light is now working. I am still waiting for my AOB compressor switch so I wired up the ARB rocker switch for testing purposes. I connected the power harness to the battery, plugged all the connections together, inserted the add a fuse for the rocker switch power....no dice on the compressor powering up.

The engine is running, all wiring connections per the ARB guide are connected, ARB rocker switch is lite...no dice on powering the compressor.

Any recommendations?
 
Man, I just wired up an ARB single compressor with an AOB switch. Was a pain in the butt but I got it all figured out. Since I don't have rear lockers, I didn't use the Iso/switch 1 & 2 wire loom. All I used was the Red and Black wire from ARB. The Yellow and Green are for the switch 1 & 2.

ARB - Red connect to AOB red wire, Black Ground (theres a ground underneath the steering column), Didn't use yellow or green.

AOB - Red connect to ARB red, Blue/yellow connect to Green wiper warmer switch, Black connect to Grey wiper switch, Green ( I connected it to the Blue LED light bar I have)

The AOB switch works as it's suppose to. Light turns on when headlights are on and when pressed, the second light comes on to let you know the switch is activated.

They way I have the AOB switch wired up, you can turn on the ARB compressor with the engine off. But I wouldn't run the compressor without the engine running thou.

I didn't bother with the ARB switch because it doesn't fit in the OEM switch hole.
 
Michael,

I have an ARB Dual Compressor Wired to an AOB switch, so let me know if you need photos of any of the wiring. Mine works perfectly.
 
Landy said:
Michael,

I have an ARB Dual Compressor Wired to an AOB switch, so let me know if you need photos of any of the wiring. Mine works perfectly.
Click to expand...


I appreciate it! For wiring the AOB switch to the ARB loom, I think I'm all set per other posts and threads. I currently have the ARB loom blue/white connected to the wiper heater green via a 3M wire tap (i know this isn't ideal and am swapping it for a posi-tap once it arrives). I have the ARB red/yellow connected to an add-a-fuse mini and plugged into a 10 spot under the dash. I'd rather have that posi-tapped into the cigarette lighter and will make that change as well.

I guess these are the only connections I'm suspicious of since my dry run with the ARB rocker switch didn't successfully power the compressor. And all of the other connections are foolproof as they are all plug and play.
 
Michael M said:
...I have the ARB red/yellow connected to an add-a-fuse mini and plugged into a 10 spot under the dash. I'd rather have that posi-tapped into the cigarette lighter and will make that change as well.
Click to expand...

If you posi-tap the ARB red/yellow wire into the cigarette lighter do you end up getting rid of the add-a-fuse mini all together, since the cigarette lighter has its own fuse?

I've done that and my setup works, light turns on for the AOB switch, compressor powers on, etc., but I noticed the AOB switch manual says you must use a fuse for the switch.

I'm using the ARB Harness and AOB switch (for OEM fit) like most people have posted about. I just didn't do the add-a-fuse since I tapped into the cigarette light.

I saw MTNRNRs post about the add-a-fuse options, but there's some different approaches in the different threads and I'm not clear which one makes the most sense. Trying to make sure I've done it properly.
 
Yes. I abandoned the add a fuse method and opted to tap into the cigarette lighter. Used an AOB switch. Everything works as intended this way.
 
I've had one of these compressors sitting at my place for a year waiting to install it, my hang up is that I've never done electrical work before and have no clue where to start... How easy was it and what tools should I pick up?
 
hamburglar210 said:
I've had one of these compressors sitting at my place for a year waiting to install it, my hang up is that I've never done electrical work before and have no clue where to start... How easy was it and what tools should I pick up?
Click to expand...

Before this install, I also had zero electrical experience. Print and read through the below pdf. It recommends tools needed and lays out the process step by step. Let us know if you get hung up anywhere. It helped me to layout the parts and wiring before anything went into the vehicle.

https://www.4wd.com/sku/ARB%204x4%20Accessories/standard/CKMTA12.pdf
 
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