help with a tire size question

[southern_runner]

Hey guys, I've only ever run standard tires and wheels and on my vehicles and I'm wanting to upgrade to a larger tire on my stock 4Runner.

So I have a 2003 SR5 V8 with the 13WG calipers (standard 16" wheels).

I found a 16" wheel/tire package, but the tires are 285/75/R16.

Can you tell me what I'll need to run this tire size? Do I need wheel spacers, or a lift, or will they work? I've looked at the tire thread here and it says the largest I can run stock is 265/70/R17.

It looks like with a 3/2 lift I can do 285/70/R17...but these are 16" wheels and tires so not sure how that affects everything. Any guidance would be appreciated!

 

[TLar25]

Tire Size Comparison

It's quite a bit bigger than stock. Basically a 33" tire. Unless you want to do the work for clearance you'd most likely need a lift, and even then will probably have to massage the fender liners/wheel well corners a little bit

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[southern_runner]

Tire Size Comparison

It's quite a bit bigger than stock. Basically a 33" tire. Unless you want to do the work for clearance you'd most likely need a lift, and even then will probably have to massage the fender liners/wheel well corners a little

Ok. I have a 3/2 Daystar lift I haven't installed yet. Was waiting to see if I would need to and it looks like I will. I appreciate it!

 

[Scutholiday]

Thanks!

 

[TLar25]

Ok. I have a 3/2 Daystar lift I haven't installed yet. Was waiting to see if I would need to and it looks like I will. I appreciate it!

Yeah it's the same size as a 285/70r17. With the lift you'll probably have a little bit of rubbing on the fender liners, and maybe a little bit on the frame at full lock. You could run spacers to clear the frame/UCA, but then probably have more rubbing on the fender flares you'd have to address. Either way, I say send it.

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[gm350reratliff]

The big question should be, what is the offset/backspacing of the new wheels? That will be the biggest difference between fitting and rubbing on everything when turning. 4.75” to 4.5” of backspacing is kind of a sweet spot between fitting wider/meatier tires and relatively easy fitment. Anything less and you’ll have a bunch of trimming, anything more and there’s a possibility of the tire contacting the UCA.

 

[southern_runner]

The big question should be, what is the offset/backspacing of the new wheels? That will be the biggest difference between fitting and rubbing on everything when turning. 4.75” to 4.5” of backspacing is kind of a sweet spot between fitting wider/meatier tires and relatively easy fitment. Anything less and you’ll have a bunch of trimming, anything more and there’s a possibility of the tire contacting the UCA.

Honestly didn't know enough to ask, although I've heard of the offset. Is there a way for me to measure it? Working on installing the 3/2 spacer lift now.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Honestly didn't know enough to ask, although I've heard of the offset. Is there a way for me to measure it? Working on installing the 3/2 spacer lift now.

It should be listed on the mfg’s website, on the box the wheels came in and/or stamped on the backside of the wheel somewhere.

 

[southern_runner]

It should be listed on the mfg’s website, on the box the wheels came in and/or stamped on the backside of the wheel somewhere.

Thx, I've reached out to the manufacturer. I purchased them used so didn't get any information.

They are RRW RR5 wheels, stamped with "16x8J", "TT28", and "SC-51S".

For now it appears the factory studs on my 4Runner aren't long enough to mount these.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Thx, I've reached out to the manufacturer. I purchased them used so didn't get any information.

They are RRW RR5 wheels, stamped with "16x8J", "TT28", and "SC-51S".

For now it appears the factory studs on my 4Runner aren't long enough to mount these.

Interesting. I’m guessing the offset is +28. I would lay something straight across the back of the wheel and measure to the mounting face, that will be the backspacing. You will probably need to run extended thread “ET style” lugs with these wheels but it’s possible they may require longer studs.

 

[southern_runner]

Interesting. I’m guessing the offset is +28. I would lay something straight across the back of the wheel and measure to the mounting face, that will be the backspacing. You will probably need to run extended thread “ET style” lugs with these wheels but it’s possible they may require longer studs.

This is highly unscientific, but I put my factory wheels face down on the ground beside the RR5's. I used a tape measure to measure the back of the hub or whatever it's called inside the wheel to the outer edge of the rim.

On my stock wheels I get roughly 5.5". On the RR5's I get 4". So in my mind, they aren't as deep as the factory rims.

I ordered (24) of the 12x1.5 extended thread lugs from RRW, since they use a narrower profile hole on their rims. Hopefully this will get it. I can get extended thread studs, but man it would be a real pain to change out 24 of those things.

Spline Closed End Lug Nuts - Relations Race Wheels

 

[AuSeeker]

Honestly didn't know enough to ask, although I've heard of the offset. Is there a way for me to measure it? Working on installing the 3/2 spacer lift now.

The following 2 web pages should help you understand wheel back spacing/offset and how to figure out what your wheels have, the first is to explain it all the second is a calculator you simply input a few measurements and it will tell what your backspace/offset is.

What Is Wheel Offset? | Custom Offsets

Wheel Offset Calculator | Find Your Offset | Custom Offsets


If you do a search there are many other wheel back spacing/offset calculators out there as well, these were just the first one I got when I did a search for you.

 

[gm350reratliff]

This is highly unscientific, but I put my factory wheels face down on the ground beside the RR5's. I used a tape measure to measure the back of the hub or whatever it's called inside the wheel to the outer edge of the rim.

On my stock wheels I get roughly 5.5". On the RR5's I get 4". So in my mind, they aren't as deep as the factory rims.

I ordered (24) of the 12x1.5 extended thread lugs from RRW, since they use a narrower profile hole on their rims. Hopefully this will get it. I can get extended thread studs, but man it would be a real pain to change out 24 of those things.

Spline Closed End Lug Nuts - Relations Race Wheels

Well, that’s pretty close. Factory 4th gen wheels have 5.25” of backspacing. Those RRW’s might be a -28mm offset which would put the backspacing somewhere around 3.5” to 3.75”.

 

[y=mx+b]

Once common misconception I see is associated with the question "What size lift do I need to clear x/x/x tire". This partially true, as a lift will help to clear the tire at ride height and probably most street driving. However, once you stuff the tire off road, the lift amount becomes irrelevant and any tire over stock size is going to rub somewhere. Mainly up front, the rear tends to just rub into the rear bumper cover, which is easily trimmable

The key to fitting tires is a custom alignment, wheel offset/backspacing and the willingness to trim areas that rub.

As mentioned by others, you'll certainly be able to fit those tires with a tad bit of work. Many others have done it in the past with success. May involve a bit of fender liner trimming :thumb:, but nothing extreme like firewall tubbing

This is a 265/70r17, so only a hair larger than stock 265/65r17 and can see there is not much room for anything larger without trimming. The front is very similar just bit more of a tight fit since everything turns, and unfortunately I don't have any pictures


Also if you intend to go offroading with the daystar kit, make sure that you extend the front bump stops appropriately or you risk breaking off the lower shock eye. If you're staying on the street, will probably never run the risk of bottoming out the shock. With the spacer lift, your shock assembly is spaced further down due to the spacer, but the suspension travel distance hasn't changed, the travel will occur within a lower range. This can causethe shock to now bottom out before the bumpstop prevents this. This kind of bumpstop extension is only necessary on spacer lifts. Stock length LCA suspension lifts usually only change the static ride height with longer or stiffer springs, while only adding a bit of extra travel

 

[southern_runner]

Also if you intend to go offroading with the daystar kit, make sure that you extend the front bump stops appropriately or you risk breaking off the lower shock eye. If you're staying on the street, will probably never run the risk of bottoming out the shock. With the spacer lift, your shock assembly is spaced further down due to the spacer, but the suspension travel distance hasn't changed, the travel will occur within a lower range. This can causethe shock to now bottom out before the bumpstop prevents this. This kind of bumpstop extension is only necessary on spacer lifts. Stock length LCA suspension lifts usually only change the static ride height with longer or stiffer springs, while only adding a bit of extra travel

Thanks, as you can tell I know nothing about all this. The only "off-roading" this truck will see is a very rough unimproved trail on our hunting property that my 2WD Pilot can handle in all but the worst weather (mud holes).

I bought the wheels for the looks, and the tires were a bonus. I'm going to try and fit them with just the lift kit. If there's excessive rubbing under normal conditions I'll look into trimming.

I also might just sell the tires before they have any wear on them and downsize just a bit. I love the look of them but I definitely don't need a mud tire, I'd be fine with the all-terrains.

I appreciate all the help and input from you guys. There are a lot of things I know some stuff about, and this isn't one of them!

I did get the lift installed, here's a quick pic of the truck with the lift and the wheel/tire combo:

 

[y=mx+b]

Thanks, as you can tell I know nothing about all this. The only "off-roading" this truck will see is a very rough unimproved trail on our hunting property that my 2WD Pilot can handle in all but the worst weather (mud holes).

I bought the wheels for the looks, and the tires were a bonus. I'm going to try and fit them with just the lift kit. If there's excessive rubbing under normal conditions I'll look into trimming.

I also might just sell the tires before they have any wear on them and downsize just a bit. I love the look of them but I definitely don't need a mud tire, I'd be fine with the all-terrains.

I appreciate all the help and input from you guys. There are a lot of things I know some stuff about, and this isn't one of them!

I did get the lift installed, here's a quick pic of the truck with the lift and the wheel/tire combo:

You'll be okay, lots of people run 285s without many issues. As long as its not getting stuffed all the way in the wheel well, you'll probably be fine.

Those wheels probably have enough offset for the tires to clear the UCA without spacers too, which is good

Those G003s are very good tires too

 

[southern_runner]

A few people have mentioned the Upper Control Arms. I did a quick search and found this from JBA Offroad:

"JBA Offroad manufacturers upper control arms (also known as UCAs or upper a-arms) for the Toyota 4Runner beginning with the 2003 model year. With the right modifications, Toyota 4Runner models are wonderfully capable off-road vehicles.

All Toyota 4Runner models have independent front suspension and require replacement of factory upper control arms when lifted. If factory UCAs are not replaced, your Toyota 4Runner alignment and clearances will be both incorrect and unsafe.

When Toyota 4Runners are lifted, caster is lost from the front-end alignment. Caster is critical for stability over 45 miles per hour and returns the steering wheel to center after going around a corner. Additionally, factory upper control arms often rub on the front springs at certain articulations. If factory a-arms are not replaced when lifting a Toyota 4Runner, expensive and dangerous damage is likely."

I know their goal is to sell product, but is this something I definitely need to be concerned about?

 

[montijo505]

For your use, no, you should be fine. If you’re going to be getting into more serious off-roading and upgrading to proper coil overs then yes as in that scenario the UCA limits travel.

As far as trimming, it’s not too much for 285’s. You’ll have to remove the front mud flaps and trim the lower inside lip of the bumper for sure, but not much else.


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[southern_runner]

Well maybe I got lucky (buying these without knowing the backspacing, etc)...

I received the RRW Extended Lugs today, and sure enough they let me install these wheels without having to replace my wheel studs. As for the clearance, what do you guys think?

I haven't had a chance to drive it because I am replacing a caliper tomorrow and have the old one off, but I think they're gonna work!

 

[y=mx+b]

Well maybe I got lucky (buying these without knowing the backspacing, etc)...

I received the RRW Extended Lugs today, and sure enough they let me install these wheels without having to replace my wheel studs. As for the clearance, what do you guys think?

I haven't had a chance to drive it because I am replacing a caliper tomorrow and have the old one off, but I think they're gonna work!

Looks good dude!