Helping out a buddy..2015 w/X-REAS..delete?

Vwright14

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So a buddy of mine is working on a 2015 Limited with a leaking X-REAS system. They want to delete it altogether and go with either Bils' or whatever is available from Toytec or the like. But.....once you replace the Struts & Shocks what needs to be done with the X-REAS system? Do you just remove it and trash it, lights? fault codes?
I know its been done but haven't seen anything on the entire process. Anyone got any insight.....and yes I did a search through past posts lol. Any help would be great.:pop2:
 
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On my 2008 sport edition I removed the xreas system. I threw away the two rear shocks and the front struts. You need new struts and rear shocks when removing an xreas system.

I did not knoew such newer trucks came with xreas? Are you mixing it up with the hydraulic sway bar system KDSS?
 
No lights or faults associated with xreas system, at least on my '03. Removed it several years ago and trashed the whole system. Replaced with Bil 4600's and FJ springs all around. Ride is nice, a little firmer than before, which I like, but my xreas had no gas charge in it when I removed it so it was probably not very firm at all!
 
Not to hijack your thread but I'm curious if you may know where, exactly, the leak is coming from. Is it the front strut itself, or is the leak from the XREAS fluid?
 
Removal is fairly easy and no mess when you disconnect from the 6 check valves. There's one by each shock and one in front of the two pumps on the sides of the frame. Where the connections are, loosen the largest nut with I believe a 1" open end wrench. Have a rag with you for the one to two drips that will be in the nut once disconnected.

This was on a 2010 LE.

I am not sure on how they'd do if reconnected the same way, most likely have air bubbles. Prob just going to trash mine.
 

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The XREAS is fully hydraulic and "analogue". No electronic components, sensors, etc. It does not interact with the ECU.
 
Thanks for the help guys, I haven't put eyes on the vehicle myself but he said both front struts and both rear shocks were leaking. The customer also wants to do away with the system, so I was just trying to help him out. He isn't wanting to lift it so they are just going to try some OEM style NON XREAS struts and shocks.
 
Thanks for the help guys, I haven't put eyes on the vehicle myself but he said both front struts and both rear shocks were leaking. The customer also wants to do away with the system, so I was just trying to help him out. He isn't wanting to lift it so they are just going to try some OEM style NON XREAS struts and shocks.

a lot of people ditch the xreas for OEM (like what's stock on SR5). however I've read on this forum but can't find the thread that the coils and springs may need to be swapped out for ones that are meant for the OEM suspension. someone can perhaps verify this

as many have said here you can remove it, there's a good youtube video on it

How to Remove X-REAS From the 4th Gen Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
 
a lot of people ditch the xreas for OEM (like what's stock on SR5). however I've read on this forum but can't find the thread that the coils and springs may need to be swapped out for ones that are meant for the OEM suspension. someone can perhaps verify this

as many have said here you can remove it, there's a good youtube video on it

How to Remove X-REAS From the 4th Gen Toyota 4Runner - YouTube

Don't follow this video, they disconnect at the banjo/union bolts, which as you can see makes a huge mess. Just about a foot up the hydraulic line on the shocks is the check valve that makes no mess and is where the Toyota service manual indicates to disconnect from. Also in the service manual the very first precaution is to never disconnect the union bolts, see below.

Seriously, I was prepared for a disaster and was super relieved when there was maybe one to two drips when I removed mine at the check valves. And routing the hard lines out from under the truck would've been a breeze if I didn't have sliders installed, but even still I finessed them out. Truck was on jack stands too, didn't need to be on a lift though that would make removal even easier.
 

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I removed my system a bit backwards. Removed the banjos on each of the shocks and let them drain. I replaced the shocks first and drove around for a little while with the lines still in place. I watched the 4th gen video for removing the lines and did that this weekend. Everything went pretty easy except for accessing the rear check valves and mounting bolt. Those took a lot of patience, but I got them eventually.
 
Great respect for offering to help out your friend. An XREAS delete, to me anyway, is quite confusing relative to what to buy to replace it. I'm looking at the Dobinson's complete 4R suspension kit and there are so many extra parts that I do not know if I need (strut caps, diff drops, press-in UCA ball joints, etc.) Ugh!
 
I removed my system a bit backwards. Removed the banjos on each of the shocks and let them drain. I replaced the shocks first and drove around for a little while with the lines still in place. I watched the 4th gen video for removing the lines and did that this weekend. Everything went pretty easy except for accessing the rear check valves and mounting bolt. Those took a lot of patience, but I got them eventually.

Bummer you had to mess with the banjos, much much cleaner and easier to just disconnect from the check valves. At least it's out now though! If I remember right, the rear check valve mounting bracket I was able to get out using a 12mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet, but could only turn a couple clicks at a time lol, bit of a pain but not horrendously difficult.

Great respect for offering to help out your friend. An XREAS delete, to me anyway, is quite confusing relative to what to buy to replace it. I'm looking at the Dobinson's complete 4R suspension kit and there are so many extra parts that I do not know if I need (strut caps, diff drops, press-in UCA ball joints, etc.) Ugh!

If the Dobinson's kit is a complete set, wouldn't it have all the necessary components for mounting?

Re diff drop, only necessary if the truck will be lifted higher than 3", if not don't waste your time/money.

Does the "complete" kit come with UCA's? If not then I assume you're getting your own, which they should come with ball joints preinstalled already. Also, UCA's aren't affected by XREAS delete, just whatever your new setup would be and if it calls for UCA's to help prevent ball joint bind on droop.
 
Does the "complete" kit come with UCA's? If not then I assume you're getting your own, which they should come with ball joints preinstalled already. Also, UCA's aren't affected by XREAS delete, just whatever your new setup would be and if it calls for UCA's to help prevent ball joint bind on droop.

I'm a bit of an ignoramus here as I don't know what UCA's are. This is the URL to the kit I'm looking at:

Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Lift Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-2021 (Non KDSS) – Dobinsons Direct

I was thinking of buying the C59-238 (0.75-1" lift) front springs, the GS59-574 Front Shocks, the C59-323 stock height rear coils, and the GS59-705 rear shocks. It's the extra stuff mentioned below those selections I chose that I'm not sure about
 
I'm a bit of an ignoramus here as I don't know what UCA's are. This is the URL to the kit I'm looking at:

Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Lift Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-2021 (Non KDSS) – Dobinsons Direct

I was thinking of buying the C59-238 (0.75-1" lift) front springs, the GS59-574 Front Shocks, the C59-323 stock height rear coils, and the GS59-705 rear shocks. It's the extra stuff mentioned below those selections I chose that I'm not sure about

For a 2" lift (1" spring + the shock you chose says it gives an additional 1" of lift) in the front you won't need Upper Control Arms (UCA's) as they only need to be replaced when you start lifting upward of 3" and getting longer travel shocks that would make the ball joints bind from letting the tires droop or fall away from the vehicle when in the air.

Get the new strut caps and have them assemble so it's a plug and play install instead of having to deal with spring compressors to remove the XREAS struts' top hats and then compress the new springs to install them onto the new strut/shock.

Here's what your cart should look like to keep things straightforward. Some owners are bothered by the slight lean some 4Runners can have after lifting, so if you want to, you could also get the 1/4" spacer they offer to install on top of the driver side strut between the top hat and the coil bucket.
 

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Seems like multiple sources, including a verbal quote from my Toyota dealer, indicates replacing XREAS with OEM XREAS-capable parts costs around $4,000. But when I look up the cost of the XREAS front struts/rear shocks, the parts cost around $800. So where's the rest of the cost?

48510-80499 (Front Right Shock)
48520-80232 (Front Left Shock)
48530-80557 (Right Rear Shock)
48540-39865 (Left Rear Shock)

Fronts are about $619, rears about $135 roughly.
 
Seems like multiple sources, including a verbal quote from my Toyota dealer, indicates replacing XREAS with OEM XREAS-capable parts costs around $4,000. But when I look up the cost of the XREAS front struts/rear shocks, the parts cost around $800. So where's the rest of the cost?

48510-80499 (Front Right Shock)
48520-80232 (Front Left Shock)
48530-80557 (Right Rear Shock)
48540-39865 (Left Rear Shock)

Fronts are about $619, rears about $135 roughly.

The $4K include them performing the replacement? Also, does that include all hard and soft lines, and the pumps?

Also, if you do swap for the Dobinsons, you would need to get non-XREAS sway bars. Since XREAS helps reduce body roll with the suspension, the sway bars aren't as thick which means they're softer. Once you go to regular shocks/struts they aren't helping in that area nearly as much, so you need to get the sway bars that are for a 4R that does not have XREAS.
 

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