Hi! new person with a problem!

Padraig

New member
Hi, I'm new and would firstly like to say Hi.Seems like a great place to be.
Secondly I'm in dire need of help. Just bought a 1986 US import LHD 4Runner which is great excepting for the fact that although it will happily do anything you like on the flat as soon as you get to a hill etc it almost stops.It's showing as a 2 litre on the log book. There is no misfire, just slows to a near halt as though losing power, but once over the hill flies again.
I've had it into the garage who can't find out what is wrong with it and it's costing me a fortune in diagnostics etc. It has had new plugs etc and a tune.
Just wondered if anyone here has the faintest idea what might be wrong. The only thing that it does that is odd other than that is that at about 1/2 throttle there is a squealing noise from the engine ( not the water pump/fanbelt etc.. although it sounds like that) which you cannot accelerate through. The engine seems strong and good and frankly I'm mystified.:awais:
Any help would be really really welcome. Thanks.
 
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Well, this may sound stupid but the 22R never did have much 'get up and go' power. Most OLDER 4-cylinders tend to dog-out. You may just be experiencing the affects of aged technology. (Or I could just be full of crap). You may want to check that you are receiving plenty of air and fuel intake. Either way, you might want to see if other older 4Runner owners (84-89) have problems with their 4 cylinder engines.
 
A U.S. truck will have a 2.4L, either carbed or EFI (22R or 22RE), probably a 22RE.


From your description I'd bet the catalytic converter is clogged, very probable on a truck that old.
 
If it is a 22R-E (EFI) and your fuel filter and cat are fine then read below:

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes and auto tranny computer codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links/toyota_trouble_codes.htm
http://www.ecutecparts.com/ccodes/toyota.html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Any public library in your area would have the Factory service manual,Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells and Toyota repair books.
There is also free AutoZone service manuals at:

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp

For scanned pages of factory service manuals for other engines:

http://www.brian894x4.com/Scannedmanual.html
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE
http://toyoefi.freeyellow.com/manual.html
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/manuals.html
http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/tech.html
http://www.autoshop101.com
http://www.mtv411.com/sitemap.htm

Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 241 000 KM

:cool:
 
TY4Runnin92 said:
Well, this may sound stupid but the 22R never did have much 'get up and go' power. Most OLDER 4-cylinders tend to dog-out. You may just be experiencing the affects of aged technology. (Or I could just be full of crap). You may want to check that you are receiving plenty of air and fuel intake. Either way, you might want to see if other older 4Runner owners (84-89) have problems with their 4 cylinder engines.

I have had an 84Runner (22R), I now have a 85Runner (22RE), and have had a 90 2door Runner (3.0). None of them have gobs of power. But out of the 3 above I was more impressed with the 22RE. It's not a hp producing engine, but for its size is pretty torquey. The only way I've gotten the RE to bog down up a hill is when I first put on my 35's with stock 4.29 gearing, now with 5.29 gears, It's actually pretty hard to bog it down...

With the automatic on the other hand, it might be loosing a bit of torque during those climbs... The cat being melted and plugged would could be very possible.
 

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