HID Install for 2006 4Ruunner

Another angle.
 

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Now that the ballast and ignitor is attached to the power steering bracket, you can connect the two wires from the ignitor to the two wires coming from the new bulbs. They connect easily with male/female connectors.

After connecting the bulbs to the ignitor, take the single ignitor wire and connect it to the ballast (bottom of ballast).

You can see I already connected the wire from the harness to the ballast (top of the ballast - red wire). When you do this, make sure you push the connector into the ballast until it locks in with a snap. The next step details how to run the XenonDepot harness from the ballast back to the driver side of the vehicle.
 

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Remove the plastic trim that runs across the radiator support by carefully prying up the plastic tabs with a flathead screwdriver. Place the tabs and plastic cover aside.

Run the harness from the passenger side to the driver aside along the bottom of the radiator support. Secure with zip ties to keep it snug.
 

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Run the XenonDepot harness along the factory harness coming from the driver side. Follow it down to the rear of the passenger headlight, then branch off with the headlight bulb wires to the ballast/ignitor on the power steering bracket. This will keep everything nice and neat.
 

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Now on to the driver side!

First, remove the white plastic battery tray so you'll have more access to run wires around and below the battery.

Second, mount the ballast. After realizing my options were very limited for a good hidden mounting location, I decided to mount the ballast on the inside front corner of the fender using sticky tape.
 

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Close up of the ballast.

Notice the factory grounding location to the left. I connected that third, small black wire from the ground wire in the XenonDepot harness.
 

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Mount the ignitor next to the ballast using sticky tape. After the ballast and ignitor are mounted, do the following:

1. Connect the single wire from the ignitor to the ballast.

2. Connect the two wires from the ignitor to the two wires from the headlight bulb.

3. Connect the connector from the XenonDepot harness (red wire again) to the ballast. Push until it clicks.

Begin using zip ties to run wires out of the way. Keep in mind where the battery will be when you put it back in.
 

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Mount the relay (using a supplied screw) to the factory hole in the fender. This hole is located behind the fuse box, which is behind the battery. Be careful not to strip the hole by overtightening the screw.
 

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All wires are now connected and run using zipties. This will all be hidden once the battery tray and battery are put back in.
 

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Put the battery back in. Connect the power lead from the XenonDepot harness to the red positive terminal. Tuck the wire and inline fuse behind the battery so it's hidden.
 

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Just about done! The battery is now in and everything is connected. Notice how the ballast, ignitor, and wires are barely visible once the battery is re-installed. Unless you know what you're looking for, the engine bay still appears very close to factory stock.
 

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Once the battery is reconnected, you are ready to start up the truck and test your new HIDs!

Don't forget you will need to normalize the windows after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Roll the driver's window down and hold the button for a few seconds. Then roll it up and do the same. The computer should then allow you to use the auto-up and auto-down feature. Do the same for the rear hatch window.

Also, I don't know if this is what typically happens after a battery disconnect, but when I first started the engine after reconnecting the battery, it fired for a second then died. When I restarted it the second time, it fired up and ran normally. I'm guessing this is normal, but don't know for sure. Regardless, since that one incident, I haven't had any problems.

Once the engine is running, flip the switch and watch the bulbs ignite and glow!
 

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It's tough to capture the full color/brightness of these headlights with a camera. I experimented with a few different settings, but I just couldn't duplicate what it looks like in person. Also, the weather has been rainy here, so the beams don't look the same due to the wet road surface. That said, here are some more pics, including beam patterns...
 

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