High mileage and suspension

[Riser]

Has anyone done a suspension refresh /upgrade? If so, what does it consist of ? Approximate cost?

Not a mechanic, but I do my own oil , brake pads , rotors etc. never tried suspension. Not sure if I’ll be able to handle it myself or not

I have 157k on my ‘10, it’s starting to get floaty and make slight rattles over bumps . Other than that , it’s rock solid

 

[nb rob]

Has anyone done a suspension refresh /upgrade? If so, what does it consist of ? Approximate cost?

Not a mechanic, but I do my own oil , brake pads , rotors etc. never tried suspension. Not sure if I’ll be able to handle it myself or not

I have 157k on my ‘10, it’s starting to get floaty and make slight rattles over bumps . Other than that , it’s rock solid

that's an awful long way to push the OEM struts and shocks.
Typically I consider a 50,000 mile service interval for non-rebuildable shocks.
You will notice a big improvment by swapping those out. If you're noticing hopping and skipping over bumps, there's a good chance that they're not cycling smoothly. I would expect this from the mileage on them.

The good news, the shocks and struts are very inexpensive. if you would like to upgrade to bilstein 5100's, they would only be about $400 for all 4 corners. OEM are even cheaper than that.

More good news, they're easy to replace- especially if you're already used to working on things yourself.

Bad news(?) if you'd like to reuse your stock coils on the coilovers (i would in your position), you'll need access to a spring compressor. Not the end of the world, but it just might justify having a shop do this for you. I personally don't care for the rod and hook type spring compressors for truck-sized coils. There is a writeup here somewhere for swapping struts without a spring compressor, using a jack and removing the center nut from the top of the shock tower.

Specific questions? Ask away!
there is no question that they require replacement at that mileage.

 

[4venture]

I have 100k on my '11.

I just ordered Bilstein 5100's on all four corners, as well as Wheeler T1 & T13 springs. All in came out to about $750, including their assembly of my front coils.

Swapping these out is an easy job. The springs will add lift to my rig, so I will need an alignment ($90), but if you choose to keep a stock ride height spring setup, the alignment might not be necessary - if you are careful to not whack the alignment bolts out of place during the swap.

 

[Riser]

Thanks guys!

So for the 5100s, I would need part numbers:

24-196499 (front)
33-187174 (rear)

Those are identified as shock housing. Anything else for this job?

Any idea how much a tire shop would charge?

 

[Toffees]

The good news, the shocks and struts are very inexpensive. if you would like to upgrade to bilstein 5100's, they would only be about $400 for all 4 corners. OEM are even cheaper than that.

Not on the LE though, but generally that seems correct

 

[nb rob]

Not on the LE though, but generally that seems correct

Ouch—- I missed the fact that it’s a limited. Good call!

 

[neatoneto]

5100's would be a great call. Gives you a great ride and you have the option to lift now or down the road. I would suggest bringing the perch up to the first notch to give you that .85" of lift in the front to level out your rig.

 

[Riser]

Ouch—- I missed the fact that it’s a limited. Good call!

Can I still use 5100s on a LE?

 

[Toffees]

Can I still use 5100s on a LE?

Yes you can, in fact many LE owners switch to 5100s and enjoy the results

5th Gen LE come equipped with XREAS, which are very expensive to replace, so your OEM replacement may cost in the $2k range. XREAS can give better on-road handling, and some drivers prefer this to 5100s, but if your truck is floaty, your suspension sounds like its shot and you've probably been driving like this long enough that you won't consider the 5100s any kind of downgrade.

TL;DR, grab some 5100s, you'll be fine

Not sure about installation though, someone else will need to advise whether any tire shop mechanic can do this but I would probably see about a reputable mechanic shop. I think these are easy enough to install, but not something you want screwed up.

 

[JSparky]

Can I still use 5100s on a LE?

Yes, you’ll have to pull the factory XREAS lines off with your current shocks. It’s an easy job. Generally when replacing shocks on a limited, it’s considred a better value to go with a mild performance shock like a 5100 versus paying big bucks for new XREAS shocks.

Alternatively, you can purchase “take offs” from an sr5 or trail/trdor model, people lift those when still relatively new so you can get near new factory shocks and springs for cheap. I just bought a pair of oem rear shocks the other night for $40 with only 10k miles on them. Check Craigslist and the like.

 

[Angelo]

+1 for doing it yourself, if you're used to "typical maintenance" type wrenching like oil changes you can definitely do your suspension. Sounds to me like you might be in for a little more than the typical 4 shock replacement due to the XREAS though... might be some answers here for you:

5th Gen Limited X-REAS Leak - Options?

Good luck, take lots of pics, and do a write up for us!

EDIT: I should have offered earlier but if you're interested in the OEM Trail / TRDOR shocks (the same Tokicos as the other trims I think...?) with 9k easy miles on them, PM me. I just replaced them with an Eibach kit.

 

[Riser]

5100's would be a great call. Gives you a great ride and you have the option to lift now or down the road. I would suggest bringing the perch up to the first notch to give you that .85" of lift in the front to level out your rig.

How much of a lift could I get with just 5100s?

I’m going to be putting on TRD Pro wheels too, and I think I would need a slight lift for asthetics. I’ve seen TRD Pros on stock limited trim and it didn’t look right

 

[CF_Machete]

How much of a lift could I get with just 5100s?

I’m going to be putting on TRD Pro wheels too, and I think I would need a slight lift for asthetics. I’ve seen TRD Pros on stock limited trim and it didn’t look right

2.5 with stock springs. I had them on my truck for a few months with the stock coils, however I also had a 1/4 spacer to account for driver side (gas tank) lean and then a half inch spacer on both sides. I was trying to get a 3 inch lift, but ended up riding higher.

if you want to go that route, I'd drop the perch to the second to highest setting rather than maxing out the perch.

 

[Riser]

2.5 with stock springs. I had them on my truck for a few months with the stock coils, however I also had a 1/4 spacer to account for driver side (gas tank) lean and then a half inch spacer on both sides. I was trying to get a 3 inch lift, but ended up riding higher.

if you want to go that route, I'd drop the perch to the second to highest setting rather than maxing out the perch.

Thanks man

 

[CF_Machete]

Thanks man

also, check my garage for my setup, I was running 2" lift springs in the rear.

 

[MossJenks]

2.5 with stock springs. I had them on my truck for a few months with the stock coils, however I also had a 1/4 spacer to account for driver side (gas tank) lean and then a half inch spacer on both sides. I was trying to get a 3 inch lift, but ended up riding higher.

if you want to go that route, I'd drop the perch to the second to highest setting rather than maxing out the perch.

Just to be clear be sure to notice Machete's next post about the springs in the back. Just shocks will lift the front only. A shock can't lift the rear.

 

[GreenMountainOwl]

I'm somewhat piggybacking on this thread because I am too new here to create my own threads. Despite dozens of hours spent reading on here, it appears the system wants me to post more in order to show that I'm serious.

The title of this thread caught my eye because my concern can be labeled as "High mileage and suspension". And here is why.

I joined here in 2017 during the process of shopping for a 4R. I live in the middle of nowhere mountains of Vermont and there is only one somewhat reputable Toyota dealer within driving distance...anything beyond becomes a day trip. This is my dream, I worked my entire life to buy my land and build my house, I'm not native to the state, and it's exactly how I choose to live.

My family has a bunch of different vehicles for different functions. The 4R was slated to be something either me or my wife could use to get around or leave the property during muddy conditions, as well as take the family (two small children) on camping trips. Extended family owns land in some nice, very remote areas, and none of the vehicles we own are both comfortable enough for a long drive and capable of navigating those areas.

When I joined T4R, I planned to buy a brand new vehicle off the lot. We made an appointment at the dealer. I knew that I wanted one, but my wife absolutely hated the "stiff truckish" ride quality. Which is odd because she chooses to drive her M1009 (military Blazer) whenever the weather is nice. The only trim levels in stock were SR5 and Limited. We drove both, she hated them. We looked at the Certified Used lot and found some SR5s with under 20k miles or so, and she didn't like those as well. I began to search for TRD trims anywhere in New England, when my wife entirely shut down my efforts.

That was then, this is now. I am considering an older 5th gen. 4R to replace my relatively new but piece o' crap Ford Escape. I don't give a damn about the latest and greatest electronic toys, I want something that will do what I want and will last, and I'm sick of the Ford's limitations. The Escape is decent overall but the build quality isn't there, it can't take a beating (I'm breaking suspension and front end components), and the AWD doesn't do much in a true off road situation. Somehow I thought I could strike a balance between something not too large but capable, and life has led me back to the 4R.

So forgive me T4R nation, for I have sinned, but my ways have brought me back here! We recently bought a new family vehicle that we took out a short loan for, so I'm looking to pay cash for a 4R. I'm trying to keep it around $20k and seeing a lot of 2012-2013s with roughly 80-120k miles in that price area. This brings me to my question: would something that's not as new as I drove in 2017 perhaps have a different ride that my wife will approve of? Are there differences in suspension with 4R of that vintage, where I could shop for a specific package and hope that I find something she likes?

 

[Jivewalker]

Has anyone done a suspension refresh /upgrade? If so, what does it consist of ? Approximate cost?

Not a mechanic, but I do my own oil , brake pads , rotors etc. never tried suspension. Not sure if I’ll be able to handle it myself or not

I have 157k on my ‘10, it’s starting to get floaty and make slight rattles over bumps . Other than that , it’s rock solid

Glad you posted this, I'm at 165k in my 2012 TE with original suspension. Experiencing the same rattles, etc. I also can see my front right shock is leaking. I considered replacing all 4 corners with 4600's, not looking for any lift or leveling. I got a quote from the dealer at around $650 to install, I supply the 4600's. I thought that was steep but don't really want to do it myself. Considering just going OEM. Can't seem to pull the trigger, am interested in your updates. I should also add that I have KDSS.

 

[swva]

Are there any bushings that could be replaced to tighten up the vehicle wandering and steering as well?

I'm going to put some new coilovers and shocks on soon and was wondering about the bushings in the front suspension. I'm at around 80,000 miles and have a slight floaty and wandering of the 4runner at higher speeds. The new shocks should help out a lot but I was also curious about the bushings. I'm worried I may have had some above average wear because I was constantly battling with a set of tires being out of balance. I have new tires installed now.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

Are there any bushings that could be replaced to tighten up the vehicle wandering and steering as well?



I'm going to put some new coilovers and shocks on soon and was wondering about the bushings in the front suspension. I'm at around 80,000 miles and have a slight floaty and wandering of the 4runner at higher speeds. The new shocks should help out a lot but I was also curious about the bushings. I'm worried I may have had some above average wear because I was constantly battling with a set of tires being out of balance. I have new tires installed now.

Is start with the shocks first since you know you need those. If that doesn't tighten things up then you would consider the upper and lower bushings if they are needed. I could be wrong but I think the only way to get those would be by buying the whole arms. I could be wrong on that though. If so I'm sure you could pick up some low milage used ones since so many people pull them off, especially the uppers. Good luck


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